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Old 01-03-2009, 02:32 AM   #1
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Tranny SWAP?

I just purchased a 98 wrangler with a four banger, how hard is it to put a manual tranny in this. It is very underpowered, or if you have any other suggestions. It's got a 3 inch lift and 33's on it. I know it's to much tire for the lil 4 banger but any suggestions would help.

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Old 01-03-2009, 04:38 AM   #2
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Get the correct diff gears on there. If not instead of swapping the tranny do an engine swap so at least its not that much of a waste. The last option is boost.

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Old 01-03-2009, 05:13 AM   #3
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look at least you got the swap right! don't swap one or the other they are both incredibly weak, find an old ford t18 4 speed tranny and a nice fi 302 or any other swap, alot of engine/trannys will fit in your jeep. if you can weld you are fine! just remember never replace the 4 banger and not the tranny, it is sooooooo damn weak!!!! the engine will last through alot of floggings but you will never be satisfied with the power. good luck
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Old 01-03-2009, 11:34 AM   #4
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I i do an engine swap do I eliminate all the stock electronics (ecu) what is this gonna all entail? I am pretty naive when it comes to this. I can figure it out with a little direction tho. Do I need to beef the front end up? I have a couple of built 360 mopar motors. Will the rearends hold up, driveshafts? Is this gonna be endless here? Anybody want a mint red wrangler, new lift, new tires, new motor. The thing is flawless, just underpowered. Maybe I need to just b happy and live with it.
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Old 01-03-2009, 11:42 AM   #5
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It sounds like you bought the wrong TJ, didn't you drive it first? Going from the automatic to the usual AX-5 5-speed transmission isn't a trivial task, perhaps you should just sell it and buy a different TJ set up the way you want it. I went the other way on my 4.0L equipped TJ, from a 5-speed to an automatic (for rock crawling reasons) and several times through the process I wondered if it was going to be worth the effort in the end. Luckily it was but it was no trivial task.
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Old 01-03-2009, 11:44 AM   #6
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regear, regear, regear
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Old 01-03-2009, 03:04 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Never Monday View Post
regear, regear, regear
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Old 01-03-2009, 05:21 PM   #8
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absolutely not you are not only going to be dissatisfied but you will be wasting money on worthless axles. i don't know why anyone thinks regearing helps much but you will be blowing more money than you think, a complete rebuild for the front and rear end( if your gonna be professional about it) and those axles wheeling are a wast in the first place, sell and buy a new one. the only way to come out, don't settle and just regear its not worth it!!!
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Old 01-03-2009, 05:30 PM   #9
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Get the correct diff gears on there. If not instead of swapping the tranny do an engine swap so at least its not that much of a waste. The last option is boost.
x2
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Old 01-03-2009, 05:33 PM   #10
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Whats wrong with a D30? He's running 33's.

As for the D35, Have you ever ran a Super 35 Kit?

Their are several way for him to get to where he wants to be. Wheather it be swapping the axles or building them correctly for his needs.
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Old 01-03-2009, 05:41 PM   #11
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absolutely not you are not only going to be dissatisfied but you will be wasting money on worthless axles. i don't know why anyone thinks regearing helps much but you will be blowing more money than you think, a complete rebuild for the front and rear end( if your gonna be professional about it) and those axles wheeling are a wast in the first place, sell and buy a new one. the only way to come out, don't settle and just regear its not worth it!!!
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back on topic
the 2.4L automatics came from the factory with 4.56. I believe the OP has 4.10's and should go to 4.88
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Old 01-03-2009, 05:59 PM   #12
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ignore the troll listen here <removed> i am not trolling and i've had both engines, regeard and spent the money and the time and broke axles and tore apart everything on 31s no less!
i am only trying to save someone from more foolish ideas
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:01 PM   #13
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if you re-gear you will lose top end, you will be making your spiders that much weaker (larger gear theoretically have less strength! and after purchasing a super 35 kit, re-gearing and rebuilding your axles you could have found and swapped more sustainable ones
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:03 PM   #14
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i like your sig
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:06 PM   #15
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how about now!
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:08 PM   #16
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even better

and once you understand I know just about everything on the S35/R44/8.8 debate. We'll get along just fine
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:08 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yjwrangler View Post
how about now!
30% of the time i tell the truth all the time
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:09 PM   #18
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here ya go

This is a common topic so I thought I'd post some facts I've found out about the 3 main options.
Super 35, Rubicon 44 and Ford 8.8
Please correct as necessary.

Super 35
semi float c-clip shafts
**NOW AVAILABLE**
Superior c-clip eliminator kit
This converts the Super35 to a 44jr.
That's right it removes the c-clips and bolts in the shafts. This is the same assembly design as the 44. With a 7.5" ring gear it's 1" small than a 44. Hence the name 44jr.
gear ratio options = 3.55, 3.73, 4.10, 4.56, 4.88
Carrier break = 3.31 / 3.55
Locker choices
Detroit, OX, ARB, Auburn ECTED
Ring gear diameter = 7.5625"
Ring gear bolts = (8) 3/8 x 24 RH - NOTE: 7/16" used on later model TJs
Low pinion
Pinion shaft diameter = 1.406"
Pinion shaft spline count = 26
Axle shaft diameter = 1.30"
Axle shaft spline count = 30
Axle tube 2.50" x .250 wall
WMS-WMS = approximately 60.5"
5 on 4.5" bolt pattern
Cost
kits run from 700-1300
labor $250 - $500
Build time <6 hrs
bolt in upgrade

Rubicon/Sahara/Unlimited 44
(XJ/MJ 44 is similar but leaf sprung)
semi float non c-clip style shafts
Standard rear axle used on all Rubicon model TJs
Gear ratio options, 3.08, 3.31, 3.54, 3.73, 4.10, 4.56, 4.88, 5.13, 5.38, 5.89
I'm not sure all ratios are available for the R44.
Lockers,
Detroit, ARB, OX, Spool, all lunchbox lockers, factory Tru-lok
Ring gear diameter = 8.5"
Ring gear bolts = (10) 7/16" x ??
Low pinion
Pinion shaft diameter = 1.376"
Pinion shaft spline count = 26
Axle shaft diameter = 1.30"
Axle shaft spline count = 30
Axle tube 2.50" x .250 wall
WMS-WMS = approximately 60.5"
5 on 4.5" bolt pattern
standard disk brakes on R44, drums on others
Cost,
used axle run 700-1300
build time, <6hrs
bolt in swap

Ford Explorer 8.8
semi float c-clip style axle, leaf sprung
C-clip eliminators and Super88 kits available
gear ratios available
2.73, 3.08. 3.27, 3.31, 3.55, 3.73, 3.90, 4.10, 4.56, 4.88, 5.13, 5.71, 6.14
No carrier break
Lockers available,
Detroit, Spool, mini-spool, OX, ARB, Auburn ECTED, Eaton E-locker, All lunchbox lockers
O.D. of tubes: 3.250".
Tube thickness: .188, there is rumor of .250
(the larger tube gives 5/8" of lift and 5/8" lower clearance under tubes.)
Ring gear diameter: 8.800".
Ring gear bolts: 7/16" dia. (qty. 10).
Pinion diameter: 1.625
Pinion spline count 30
Axle shaft: 1.31
Axle spline count 31
Overall width 59.625" (the F8.8 is .950" narrower then a TJ Dana 35).
I've been told the c-clip eliminator kit increases the track 1"

Cost,
complete axles can be had for $100 with a LSD and disk brakes.
This conversion will require welding and fabrication. Plus many additional parts.
Estimated build cost >$1000-$1200
build time >8 hrs

Toyota Tacoma 2WD, non Pre-Runner 1995-2001
I'm still gathering details.
8" ring gear
Third member design
ARB, Detroit, Toyota E-Locker, Spool
Lot's of gear ratios
5x4.5 bolt pattern


Ground clearance;
Measured on 35" tires on a concrete shop floor
axle - under tube - under diff
35 - 14 7/8 - 11 1/4
44 - 14 7/8 - 10 7/8
8.8 - 14 1/2 - 10 1/8
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:10 PM   #19
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i almost like that one better my boss said my sig to me when i was younger...its more of mocking him then it is anything...
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:11 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Never Monday View Post
here ya go

This is a common topic so I thought I'd post some facts I've found out about the 3 main options.
Super 35, Rubicon 44 and Ford 8.8
Please correct as necessary.

Super 35
semi float c-clip shafts
**NOW AVAILABLE**
Superior c-clip eliminator kit
This converts the Super35 to a 44jr.
That's right it removes the c-clips and bolts in the shafts. This is the same assembly design as the 44. With a 7.5" ring gear it's 1" small than a 44. Hence the name 44jr.
gear ratio options = 3.55, 3.73, 4.10, 4.56, 4.88
Carrier break = 3.31 / 3.55
Locker choices
Detroit, OX, ARB, Auburn ECTED
Ring gear diameter = 7.5625"
Ring gear bolts = (8) 3/8 x 24 RH - NOTE: 7/16" used on later model TJs
Low pinion
Pinion shaft diameter = 1.406"
Pinion shaft spline count = 26
Axle shaft diameter = 1.30"
Axle shaft spline count = 30
Axle tube 2.50" x .250 wall
WMS-WMS = approximately 60.5"
5 on 4.5" bolt pattern
Cost
kits run from 700-1300
labor $250 - $500
Build time <6 hrs
bolt in upgrade

Rubicon/Sahara/Unlimited 44
(XJ/MJ 44 is similar but leaf sprung)
semi float non c-clip style shafts
Standard rear axle used on all Rubicon model TJs
Gear ratio options, 3.08, 3.31, 3.54, 3.73, 4.10, 4.56, 4.88, 5.13, 5.38, 5.89
I'm not sure all ratios are available for the R44.
Lockers,
Detroit, ARB, OX, Spool, all lunchbox lockers, factory Tru-lok
Ring gear diameter = 8.5"
Ring gear bolts = (10) 7/16" x ??
Low pinion
Pinion shaft diameter = 1.376"
Pinion shaft spline count = 26
Axle shaft diameter = 1.30"
Axle shaft spline count = 30
Axle tube 2.50" x .250 wall
WMS-WMS = approximately 60.5"
5 on 4.5" bolt pattern
standard disk brakes on R44, drums on others
Cost,
used axle run 700-1300
build time, <6hrs
bolt in swap

Ford Explorer 8.8
semi float c-clip style axle, leaf sprung
C-clip eliminators and Super88 kits available
gear ratios available
2.73, 3.08. 3.27, 3.31, 3.55, 3.73, 3.90, 4.10, 4.56, 4.88, 5.13, 5.71, 6.14
No carrier break
Lockers available,
Detroit, Spool, mini-spool, OX, ARB, Auburn ECTED, Eaton E-locker, All lunchbox lockers
O.D. of tubes: 3.250".
Tube thickness: .188, there is rumor of .250
(the larger tube gives 5/8" of lift and 5/8" lower clearance under tubes.)
Ring gear diameter: 8.800".
Ring gear bolts: 7/16" dia. (qty. 10).
Pinion diameter: 1.625
Pinion spline count 30
Axle shaft: 1.31
Axle spline count 31
Overall width 59.625" (the F8.8 is .950" narrower then a TJ Dana 35).
I've been told the c-clip eliminator kit increases the track 1"

Cost,
complete axles can be had for $100 with a LSD and disk brakes.
This conversion will require welding and fabrication. Plus many additional parts.
Estimated build cost >$1000-$1200
build time >8 hrs

Toyota Tacoma 2WD, non Pre-Runner 1995-2001
I'm still gathering details.
8" ring gear
Third member design
ARB, Detroit, Toyota E-Locker, Spool
Lot's of gear ratios
5x4.5 bolt pattern


Ground clearance;
Measured on 35" tires on a concrete shop floor
axle - under tube - under diff
35 - 14 7/8 - 11 1/4
44 - 14 7/8 - 10 7/8
8.8 - 14 1/2 - 10 1/8
hey <removed> i am saying that it is cheaper to swap salvage 8.8s and d44 than to blow money on garbage...
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:12 PM   #21
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ohh yeah that is bullshit to, i could buy a built 8.8 at my junkyard for 200 dollars and weld it on for free...i am not understanding why you are stealing someone elses miss guided knowledge and substituting it with my real life experience!
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:16 PM   #22
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Ground clearance;
Measured on 35" tires on a concrete shop floor
axle - under tube - under diff
35 - 14 7/8 - 11 1/4
44 - 14 7/8 - 10 7/8
8.8 - 14 1/2 - 10 1/8

well i would say the reason there is more ground clearance is there is less meat...and also what of the crappy thin axle tubes, the plug welds...the list goes on and alot of people can vouch that blowing money on a d35 is a waist
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:17 PM   #23
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hey retard i am saying that it is cheaper to swap salvage 8.8s and d44 than to blow money on garbage...
that's your opinion.

your welcome to it, even if it can't be recreated every day by anyone else
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:19 PM   #24
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neither can a complete rebuild of the rear axle. it takes alot of work and know how and tools to rebuild axle innards, doesn't take much to take an axle with some marks and chunks of metal to a shop and say " hey can you weld this for me"
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:22 PM   #25
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its cheap and anyone can find someone nice enough to weld for cheap, when all is said and done, it is cheaper buy slavage ( more eco friendly too) and you can get all the parts at a junkyard, any junkyard. thats a fact so stop giving out crappy advise and calling people "trolls" newb!
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:22 PM   #26
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Ground clearance;
Measured on 35" tires on a concrete shop floor
axle - under tube - under diff
35 - 14 7/8 - 11 1/4
44 - 14 7/8 - 10 7/8
8.8 - 14 1/2 - 10 1/8

well i would say the reason there is more ground clearance is there is less meat...and also what of the crappy thin axle tubes, the plug welds...the list goes on and alot of people can vouch that blowing money on a d35 is a waist
all were measured on the same set of tires

crappy thin axle tubes, D35/R44 are .250 wall, the 8.8 is .188
the plug welds...D35 3 per side
R44 6 per side
F8.8 3 per side


the list goes on and alot of people can vouch that blowing money on a d35 is a waist - a an untold number of S35's are out there without failure


how far do you want this to go? I can bury you in facts and make you look bad.

I'll say it once
There is no difference in a S35, Rubicon 44 or Ford 8.8 in surviving 35" tires
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:25 PM   #27
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yeah your stealing your facts but i've done and helped with all these swaps so go on and on with your stolen info but i can keep backing up my facts with my experience!
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:25 PM   #28
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so stop giving out crappy advise and calling people "trolls" newb!
wow, you'vce been here 7 whole months longer than I have

If you can't handle the truth that an 8.8 is not the greatest thing since peanut butter. Then I suggest you return to your fantasy world where they all know you and like you.
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:26 PM   #29
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yeah your stealing your facts but i've done and helped with all these swaps so go on and on with your stolen info but i can keep backing up my facts with my experience!
and would you like to quote where my stolen facts come from?
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:27 PM   #30
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so your saying a d35 is no different from an 8.8...i find that impossible to believe

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