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Old 06-06-2011, 11:09 PM   #1
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Transfer case drop

Is there a way to drop the transfer case without having to buy a kit for $50? I have read that the kit is just spacers but what do need to buy? I just installed a 2.5" lift and have a slight vibe. Thanks for the help!

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Old 06-06-2011, 11:24 PM   #2
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one inch spacers (6) and bolts that are twice as long as the OEM bolts.

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Old 06-06-2011, 11:29 PM   #3
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Or you can add a SYE/CV and not lose 1" of lift.
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:09 AM   #4
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Or you can add a SYE/CV and not lose 1" of lift.
I can feel your blood pressure rising man. Lol
We all go through this stage
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:21 AM   #5
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Is there a way to drop the transfer case without having to buy a kit for $50? I have read that the kit is just spacers but what do need to buy? I just installed a 2.5" lift and have a slight vibe. Thanks for the help!
Before I got a SYE/CV shaft I made a t-case drop. It was made of 1"x2" 6061-T611 aluminum bar stock, and I ordered longer bolts from McMaster-Carr.



Looks better than most and is far more sturdy. btw, it's for sale (fits 03-06).
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:11 AM   #6
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Is that a two inch drop?
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:18 AM   #7
Knows a couple things...

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Remove one of your t-case skidplate bolts and take it to the hardware store so you can match its size and buy six 1" longer replacement hardened bolts. If they are SAE, they must be Grade 5 or Grade 8. If they are metric, they must rated 8.8 or 10.9. Those numbers are the bolt's hardness, not its size. If you have an early Jeep, its size will be an SAE (inch) size but if you have a newer TJ, it'll be metric.

Then, since you need to drop your t-case 1/2" to 1" max to get rid of the vibrations, buy a 6" stack of washers sized to fit the diameter of the six new 1" longer bolts you bought.

Support the skidplate with a jack and then loosen the bolts on one side by 4-5 turns, then remove all the bolts on the other side. You leave the bolts loosely threaded in on on side to keep the skidplate from moving out of position. Now lower the jack enough so you can stack 5/8" or so worth of washers between the frame and skidplate, inserting the new bolt up through the stack of washers. Do that for all six bolts and you're done.

A 5/8" drop should be enough to get rid of the vibes but if you need to, you can drop it up to 1".

The washers are inserted between the frame and skidplate like this...




Total cost for all 6 bolts and washers is under $10.
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:28 AM   #8
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Thanks again Jerry!! That sounds like the best route until I can get an SYE/CV.
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:05 PM   #9
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The bolts on the 03-06 are Class 10.9 M12x1.75. 55-60mm is plenty long for 1" t-case drop.
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:58 PM   #10
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Are those bolts available at hardware stores like The Home Depot or similar stores? Are these bolts only specific to automotive applications?
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Old 06-07-2011, 03:41 PM   #11
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I first started out with washers but I with a 3/4" drop, I didn't like how the forces were distributed...



So I replaced the washers with 1"x2" square tubing. I've landed hard on my skid a few times and feel more confident the way the tubing distributes the load vs. the washers.

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Old 06-07-2011, 03:45 PM   #12
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Are those bolts available at hardware stores like The Home Depot or similar stores? Are these bolts only specific to automotive applications?
Home Depot and Lowes likely won't have it. You're hard pressed to find a teenage pimple popper kid that actually knows what Grade 8 is, let alone Class 10.9.

Go to Fastenal, ACE or order from McMaster-Carr. make sure to use anti-seize.
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:30 PM   #13
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IslandTJ, where did you get that steel tubing you used? How thick is the walls on that tubing?
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Old 06-08-2011, 09:53 AM   #14
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IslandTJ, where did you get that steel tubing you used? How thick is the walls on that tubing?
My cousin is a fabricator at a commercial truck build shop, it was just scrap material lying around. The thickness is 1/8".

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