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Old 06-25-2012, 11:58 AM   #1
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Transmission and Transfercase Seal Replacement Report

I had several things I wanted to do that required the transfer case skid to be removed. I thought I would do all of them at the same time.

1. Clean up rust on frame where skid touches.
2. Fix leak coming from where the tranny and tcase attach.

While I was at it, why not do a tummy tuck?

3. Tummy tuck and engine skid.
4. Replace tcase shifter linkage.

I broke all these up into different threads. If you're interested you can search for them by their titles.

1. POR-15 Rust Repair on Frame Report
2. Transmission and Transfercase Seal Replacement Report
3. UCF Tummy Tuck and Engine Skid Report
4. Novak Transfer Case Shifter Linkage Report

I have a 2001 Wrangler Sport I6, 3 speed auto and NP231 tcase. It has 77,000 miles.

I am not an expert. I followed instructions, factory service manual and forum postings.


Leak

Below is my leak. See arrow. Over a couple weeks it would accumulate on the skid plate enough to start dripping on the driveway.

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It's hard to tell if the tranny or tcase is leaking since they use the same fluid. I guess I'll replace both seals!


Products

Finding the right part numbers for the seals wasn't as straight forward as expected.

I started with the Jeep parts catalog for my model. Advance Auto Parts and others have no idea what to do with these part numbers. Apparently, cross referencing or even offering a suggestion where to go is out of their grasp. I'm sure the dealership does, since it's their part numbers, but there's many reasons why I don't want to use them.
  • 4167 929 - Transfer case input gear seal
  • 4269 956 - Transmission adapter seal
I then stumbled across this web site: Timken Online Parts Catalog It will cross reference the Mopar part numbers to Timken/National part numbers. Sweet!
  • 4167 929 becomes 3173 - Transfer case input gear seal
  • 4269 956 becomes 710058 - Transmission adapter seal
Just in case I needed a speedi-sleeve (repair sleeve) I picked up a couple. The tcase input shaft rides on both the tranny and tcase seals. Because of this, the same sleeve is used. Again, I choose National.
  • KWK99193 - Repair sleeve
Advance Auto Parts sells National. This is the brand I wanted to go with. They seem to have a good reputation. Others are probably fine, but I would hate to replace a faulty new seal. I ended up buying a couple of each. I'll return what I don't use. In the below pic you will notice there is an additional seal 710928. It doesn't belong. I got it out of confusion after visiting Rockauto.com.

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Let's get this out of the way. If you look at below picture you will see there is an adapter that connects the tranny and tcase. There is a gasket between the tranny and adapter, but not the adapter and tcase. So don't worry about it.

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#7 is the transmission adapter.
#8 is the adapter seal.
#14 is the transmission case gasket.

These are the specialized tools I used:
  • Seal puller. If you've seen one you've seen them all?
  • PVC pipe for seal driver
  • Harbor Freight transmission jack (#39178 ) $79.99
If you have some help you don't need the tranny jack. I do not. My friends could care less about working on a car. It was very useful.


Skid Removal

See the "POR-15 Rust Repair on Frame Report" thread.

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- Lao Tzu (from Tao Te Ching) ~500BCE

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Old 06-25-2012, 12:00 PM   #2
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TCase Removal

I heard from this thread 3spd auto rear seal replacement - JeepForum.com that if you don't drain the tranny fluid it will spill all over as you remove the tcase. The tcase input shaft rides on the tranny seal. So I drained the fluid. I didn't remove the tranny pan, just loosened the bolts enough for the fluid to drain out. Once it was done draining I tightened the bolts.

Drained the tcase fluid.

Disconnected the tail pipe assembly. I then put the jack under the tranny pan again and removed the jack stand. You can lower the tranny a little to get at the top tcase nuts easier. Once the nuts were only finger tight, I jacked the tranny up until parallel with the floor and put the jack stand back in place.

I attached the tranny jack to the tcase. Removed the nuts. Then pulled back on the tcase and out it went!

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Now you can see the tcase removed and what the tranny looks like.

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Tranny Seal Replacement

So here is the progression of the seal replacement. I used a normal seal puller to remove it. Then used a hammer and a piece of PVC pipe, the diameter of the tranny seal, to set it.

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Remember to make sure the spring on the inside of seal is fully seated. Also, lube the seal to prevent damage.

The old tranny output seal had worn away.

__________________
Stop thinking and all your problems go away.
- Lao Tzu (from Tao Te Ching) ~500BCE

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Old 06-25-2012, 12:02 PM   #3
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Tcase Seal Replacement

This is a little more involved than the tranny seal. Honestly, it wasn't leaking, but better safe than sorry (having to do all this again).

Removed the 4 bolts holding the seal retainer on. It's RTVed so you will need to pry it off gently. Clean up the surfaces on the tcase and retainer.

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Remove the seal. Using the same piece of PVC pipe drive the seal in.

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Apply a bead of RTV.

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Make sure the spring on the inside of the seal is seated. Lube up the seal so it doesn't get damaged. Slide on to the shaft and bolt back together.

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Finish Up

Tranny jack the tcase into position and slide on.

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Torque the nuts. Add fluid to tcase. Reassemble everything. Add fluid to tranny.


Summary

It's been 2 months and no leaks! Woo-hoo!
__________________
Stop thinking and all your problems go away.
- Lao Tzu (from Tao Te Ching) ~500BCE

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