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Old 02-14-2012, 12:29 PM   #1
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Trouble separating engine and transmission

Hi all,

Throwout bearing threw up while it was in the garage, so I'm trying to change the clutch myself. I'm having trouble getting the engine and trans separated. It's on a transmission jack, I'm fairly certain I have the trans bolts out (3 inspection plate screws, two inspection plate through-bolts, two of those damn external torx bolts, and two long loctite'd transmission-to-engine bolts). Is there a good trick to getting it off the locating pins? I tried the engine on it's own jack, but that didn't help. I'm afraid to use a pry bar as I don't want to break the case or anything.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

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Old 02-14-2012, 01:10 PM   #2
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They can be a pain in the ass, more than likely the trans shaft is just bound up in the clutch. Get underneith and start man handling the trany, it will break loose. Once it splits a little use a pry bar to get it off the pins, then you will beable to move it back and forth easyer.

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Old 02-14-2012, 01:49 PM   #3
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Starter out? There were 8 bolts IIRC on mine....
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Old 02-14-2012, 01:51 PM   #4
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You want to make sure you have some sort of support under the engine. If you dont, you might be binding with support under the tranny and not the engine.
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Old 02-14-2012, 02:09 PM   #5
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Yeah the starter is out. And the CPS, and the trans mount since it holds the cat pipe. I must be missing a couple bolts or something. I hate to punch and kick this thing to freedom and end up crushed in the process :-)
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Old 02-14-2012, 02:56 PM   #6
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Well there goes two hours, and it hasn't budged. How much will taking the transfer case off help, given I have the trans jack and all? Never had this much trouble getting one apart. I hope the clutch isn't seized on the splines or something.
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Old 02-14-2012, 03:00 PM   #7
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May also want to wack it good a few times with a rubber mallet. I've found that when two parts bind together like that, a few hard strikes in the right place with rubber will vibrate it apart if you have all of the bolts out and have otherwise removed anything that might hold it.
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Old 02-14-2012, 03:06 PM   #8
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When I did mine we had to drop the jack all as low as it would go, then tied some heavy rope to the jack and pulled at it from behind with a combination using a pry bar. It eventually worked itself loose.
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Old 02-14-2012, 04:20 PM   #9
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Good lord. I really need to buy a lift to do this sort of junk. Guess I'll try a rope and come-a-long or something similar tomorrow.
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:24 PM   #10
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If u remove the t-case, then the trans (AX-15) only weighs like 75lbs. No comealongs or rope is needed. U got the trans in a bind against the engine. Try lifting / lowering the trans in like 1/4" increments while firmly supporting the engine. Once they are no longer bound up, the trans will all but fall out. Sometimes a minor bit of prying is needed to get it off the dowel pins if there is some corrosion built up.
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nailhead432 View Post
If u remove the t-case, then the trans (AX-15) only weighs like 75lbs. No comealongs or rope is needed. U got the trans in a bind against the engine. Try lifting / lowering the trans in like 1/4" increments while firmly supporting the engine. Once they are no longer bound up, the trans will all but fall out. Sometimes a minor bit of prying is needed to get it off the dowel pins if there is some corrosion built up.
It was not that bad with the T/C still on. Nailhead is dead on with this one!
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:35 PM   #12
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i just did mine last month taking the transfercase off is a big help and u need to jack up the motor it took two people to get mine apart. i had to smack the bell housing with a mallet (rubber) while my cousin jerked side to side on the end. and it is a real pain to put back in with the tranfercase still on so take the time and do it now it will help in the long run
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:36 PM   #13
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oh and spray lube around the pins that was my biggest problem !
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:39 PM   #14
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Cool, I think mine is a NV3550 (2004), but hopefully it won't be too much heavier. I'll give it another shot tomorrow.

Thanks everyone!
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:41 PM   #15
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Just did mine last month rubber hammer and pry bar got mine oh ya and two 300 pound guys lol
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:42 PM   #16
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And lots of beer
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Old 02-15-2012, 11:23 PM   #17
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It's suprising how well the guide pins can hold everything together especially if it has never been apart before!
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:11 AM   #18
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Yeah, why are there even bolts in this thing? ;-p

Tried pulling the jack, didn't work. I'm picking up a rubber mallet with a non-broken handle today to try again.
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:16 AM   #19
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First, verify (again) that you really do have all the bolts out. Second, the bind caused by the jack being even a little too high or a little too low can prevent them from separating. Every time I've pulled the transmission I have had to tweak the jack up and down in very tiny increments at a time to remove the bind so they could be separated.
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Old 02-19-2012, 04:59 PM   #20
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Well that was a blast. Transfer case was corroded on somehow, and I had to heat up the location pins on the transmission to pull it off. Never had a trans like that in my life. Now on to trying to get the down pipe detached with those pre-cats and all so I can change the rear main seal while I'm in here. I'm sure all those bolts are rusted up well. Thanks all!
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Old 02-19-2012, 05:03 PM   #21
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Start spraying the downpipe hardware with Liquid Wrench, Break-Free, PB-Blaster, Kroil, etc. (not WD-40) now and give it a chance to work.

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