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Old 09-29-2012, 09:23 AM   #1
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I'm in college so I don't have a ton of money, but I love wheelin in the Jeep, so I had an idea to get a UCF no body lift TT instead of lifting the Jeep. My Idea came from always dragging the skid when on the trail I could raise it up instead of spendin my money on a lift . I was wonderin if you guys think I would get vibes if I do the no body lift TT on stock suspension, and maybe a lo pro trans mount?

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Old 09-29-2012, 01:20 PM   #2
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Lo-pro is a pain to install with the modding of the bracket. It also transmits more buzzing. You may get away with no vibes on the UCF - it will raise your TC output and create an imbalance in U joint angles. You may need an MML to bring stuff back toward spec.

The UCF No lift TT is a good piece but raises the tail of the TC a good 1.5 inches if not using the magical mount.

You can get into a spacer lift for less than a TT.

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Old 09-29-2012, 02:34 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dontpanic View Post
Lo-pro is a pain to install with the modding of the bracket. It also transmits more buzzing. You may get away with no vibes on the UCF - it will raise your TC output and create an imbalance in U joint angles. You may need an MML to bring stuff back toward spec.

The UCF No lift TT is a good piece but raises the tail of the TC a good 1.5 inches if not using the magical mount.

You can get into a spacer lift for less than a TT.
So adding a a SYE would be necessary, because it raises the transfer case, but it also changes its horizontal orientation (i mean it changes its angle clockwise, seen from the side) so it would be equivalent as a 3-4 inch lift.
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Old 09-29-2012, 03:54 PM   #4
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So adding a a SYE would be necessary, because it raises the transfer case, but it also changes its horizontal orientation (i mean it changes its angle clockwise, seen from the side) so it would be equivalent as a 3-4 inch lift.
SYE alone will not be enough - you would also need adj UCAs in the rear to bring diff pinion in line with TC output. Implied is a new double-cardan drive$haft.

UCF "no lift TT": The angles are close to the same as an OME spring lift IIRC. U joint angles stay under 10 deg. Some jeeps are more sensitive to imbalance in U joint angles than others. The TC end tends to have a steeper angle than the diff end... thus the potential mitigation via MML.
Keep in mind that 7 deg at both ends will be smoother than 5 at one end 10 at the other even though the net lift may be the same.
Another caveat: if you do decide to go UCF + MML you will potentially run into exhaust contact on the pass side UCA mount. I recommend dropping your exhaust center piece (the piece with the cats welded into it) and cold working (read hammering) a dimple or crease in the area of the UCA mount for clearance. don't worry about exhaust restriction - a little dimple is not going to significantly impact flow despite what some web wheelers would have you beleive. You can also push your motor over as much as possible at the pass side slotted bolt hole on the motor mount but on some jeeps that is not enough. YMMV.
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Old 09-29-2012, 04:01 PM   #5
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Getting rid of the stock belly pan is much more advantageous than installing longer springs/shocks. Smart move.

If you do it, make sure you address everything that needs to be addressed--lower the exhaust hanger at the transmission mount to set the exhaust back to a neutral state, at a minimum. I'm a big fan of the LoPro mount....minimizing the amount you raise the t-case should always be a goal for many reasons.
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Old 09-30-2012, 07:25 AM   #6
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Getting rid of the stock belly pan is much more advantageous than installing longer springs/shocks. Smart move.
Thanks! Here's mine. 12" under the UCF. I'm back on 31s (just did not dig the way the Jeep handled on or off road on 33's - LJs and 33s are a better combo IMO - That or I was doing it wrong) - I do have 1" longer springs tho.
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Old 09-30-2012, 07:42 AM   #7
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Thanks! Here's mine. 12" under the UCF. I'm back on 31s (just did not dig the way the Jeep handled on or off road on 33's - LJs and 33s are a better combo IMO - That or I was doing it wrong) - I do have 1" longer springs tho.
As tire size increases, your suspension and drivetrain should grow as well. Running larger tires on an otherwise-unmodified or poorly-modified rig will just yield sub-par results.

The goal should be to keep making the Jeep drive better and better ON the road. When you do that, it'll take care of itself off the road.
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Old 09-30-2012, 08:27 AM   #8
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There are practical limits.

I found I prefer slightly smaller tires less total lift on a short wheelbase/short arm vehicle. Others don't mind the slightly jouncier ride with higher control arm, driveline, and suspension angles. Over the years I found my tastes have changed and I've become a fan of Low CG builds.
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Old 09-30-2012, 08:39 AM   #9
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There are practical limits.

I found I prefer slightly smaller tires less total lift on a short wheelbase/short arm vehicle. Others don't mind the slightly jouncier ride with higher control arm, driveline, and suspension angles. Over the years I found my tastes have changed and I've become a fan of Low CG builds.
You'd be amazed at how inelastic ride quality is when it comes to control arm angles. Through the practical realm, it's almost imperceptible. Besides that, 33's aren't big tires. You don't need to be running anything close to steep angles to fit them.

I'm also a fan of keeping the COG in check and I care about the on-road driving characteristics more than anything--braking, cornering, steering, suspension response, overall ride quality--stock Jeeps do all of those things pretty poorly. There's a ton of room for improvement and taller springs are neither here nor there in that discussion.

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