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Old 12-10-2012, 10:01 AM   #1
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Tummy tuck kit

IS this a good kit to get to do the TT. It dosent say anything about needing a BL but I plan on instaling a 1-1/4" BL anyway.

AEV Conversions NTH14070AA - AEV Tummy Tucker for 87-06 Jeep® Wrangler YJ, TJ & Unlimited with Manual Transmission - Quadratec

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Old 12-10-2012, 10:45 AM   #2
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yup, AEV makes good stuff. don't forget the 1"MML with the 1.25" BL, and the SYE/CV shaft & adjustable control arms.

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Old 12-10-2012, 11:09 AM   #3
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Since I have an LJ (like you) will I need a SYE? I thought LJ guys could get away without it since the wheel base is longer reducing the drive line angle.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:14 AM   #4
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Since I have an LJ (like you) will I need a SYE? I thought LJ guys could get away without it since the wheel base is longer reducing the drive line angle.
I have a TT that sits 2.25" below the frame, with a 1" BL and 1" MML. A stock height, I was fine. As soon as I installed a suspension lift I needed the SYE/CV shaft.

Remember, a TT moves the t-case and trans up, so it's similar to installing a suspension lift.

So lets say you install a TT that gains 3" over the stock 4.65" drop. That's a 3" lift as seen by the t-case...regardless of the springs. Add a 3" spring lift, now the t-case thinks you're at 6" of lift.

Give this a read:
What is a CV shaft and why do I want one? - JeepForum.com
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:22 AM   #5
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Now to muddy up the water.....

Just because you gain 3" at the belly doesn't mean you raised the trans/t-case 3". That AEV setup uses a low profile trans mount so it makes better use of the space between the skid and trans than stock.

For example--with my old flat skid, I designed it to sit the trans as close to the skid as absolutely possible. Total gain in belly clearance over stock was ~4.25" but total distance the t-case output rose was only ~3".
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:34 AM   #6
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BL is not required for the AEV TT but you may want it for other reasons. The lowest point on my AEV skid is about 2.25" from the frame with no body lift.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:53 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
yup, AEV makes good stuff. don't forget the 1"MML with the 1.25" BL, and the SYE/CV shaft & adjustable control arms.
Because of the change in pinion angle, you may also need a CV type rear track bar relocation bracket and adjustable track bar as well (if you don't have these already).
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:41 PM   #8
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Because of the change in pinion angle, you may also need a CV type rear track bar relocation bracket and adjustable track bar as well (if you don't have these already).
Would you need a track bar relocation bracket with and adjustable track bar?? I thought the adjustment would make up for it.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:45 PM   #9
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How far below the frame does that skid stick out? I've been looking at the ucf skid but this looks more tucked which is nice
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:49 PM   #10
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Would you need a track bar relocation bracket with and adjustable track bar?? I thought the adjustment would make up for it.
with a lift you need the relocation bracket. otherwise the bar can bind up on the stock bracket because it's closed on top. if you use the stock bar with the relocation bracket, the stock bar's bushings are in a bind, so they get destroyed pretty quick...not to mention the stock bar won't fit in there well. so you end up needing both the relocation bracket, some reinforcement to keep it from ripping off the axle, and an adjustable rear bar with a flex joint on at least the axle end. then you also need to watch out because the relocation bracket can hit the underside of the tub or the fuel lines.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:00 PM   #11
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How far below the frame does that skid stick out? I've been looking at the ucf skid but this looks more tucked which is nice
About 2.25" maybe 2.5" at it's lowest point. About an inch everywhere else.
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:44 PM   #12
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Would you need a track bar relocation bracket with and adjustable track bar?? I thought the adjustment would make up for it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
with a lift you need the relocation bracket. otherwise the bar can bind up on the stock bracket because it's closed on top. if you use the stock bar with the relocation bracket, the stock bar's bushings are in a bind, so they get destroyed pretty quick...not to mention the stock bar won't fit in there well. so you end up needing both the relocation bracket, some reinforcement to keep it from ripping off the axle, and an adjustable rear bar with a flex joint on at least the axle end. then you also need to watch out because the relocation bracket can hit the underside of the tub or the fuel lines.
Yup. Additionally, the CV relocation bracket helped in clearing my track bar from hitting my gas tank skid mounting brackets.

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