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Old 08-03-2012, 10:08 PM   #1
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Tummy Tuck - UCF style

So I got my original "Extra-Clearance" skid from the big brown truck today.



This skid is the carbon steel variety at 3/16" thick and is only 2" deep... quite the BIG improvement over the stock shovel....




The quality is of workmanship is what I expected... TOP NOTCH! Matt takes great pride in his work....



I cleaned and prepped it... shot it with primer and satin black. Install will be tomorrow.

There is a lot of info out there for 'what is required' when installing a TT.... For the record, I will list it.

High Clearance skid ( of course)
Minimum of 1" BL for tub clearance
1" MML ( Motor Mount Lift)
Adjustable Rear Upper and Lower Control Arms ( I recommend both )
SYE ( recommended if you run over 3-3.5" of lift )
Rear CV style Drive-shaft ( required with SYE )
Rear shock re-locators
Adjustable rear track bar and/or angled track bar bracket to allow pinion rotation

and 'possibly' a Novak shift cable for t-case... ( not sure yet )

There may be some mods involved with exahaust.. guess I will find out

All in all... you are looking at about $1200-$1500 for a complete install if you are starting from scratch.

Luckily...

I added my 1" MML last year to relieve driveline angle with my 2" BB.
Installed my 4" lift with 8 adj. CA's in April '12'
Installed my SYE, CV drive-shaft and rear angled track bar bracket same time as lift.
Added my 1.25" BL in June '12'

Tomorrow... more pics of the install and maybe vid or two...

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Old 08-03-2012, 11:14 PM   #2
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You have definitely done your homework. I did the Ultra High UCF pan a couple weekends ago and your list is spot on with the exception of the new skid plate bolts.

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Old 08-03-2012, 11:41 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by doclouie View Post
You have definitely done your homework. I did the Ultra High UCF pan a couple weekends ago and your list is spot on with the exception of the new skid plate bolts.
You all helped me a lot on the TT thread.... thanks....

Why the need for the new bolts? Curious...
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:56 PM   #4
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Why the need for rear shock relocators? Do you mean outboarding?

I'm doing this next spring but may go with the ultra model. My belly ain't flat but i want my Jeep's belly flat Shovel clearance was my need after my last trip out.
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:01 AM   #5
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:10 AM   #6
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Why the need for rear shock relocators? Do you mean outboarding?

I'm doing this next spring but may go with the ultra model. My belly ain't flat but i want my Jeep's belly flat Shovel clearance was my need after my last trip out.
The reason for the relocators (if you haven't clearanced your coil pads ) is for when you rotate the pinion up to correct your driveline angle. During rotation, you pull the lower shock mount down and forward bringing the body of the shock into the axle where it can contact the coil pad, damaging the shock body.
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:16 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnDz TJ View Post
The reason for the relocators (if you haven't clearanced your coil pads ) is for when you rotate the pinion up to correct your driveline angle. During rotation, you pull the lower shock mount down and forward bringing the body of the shock into the axle where it can contact the coil pad, damaging the shock body.
Gotcha. I was wondering what the heck it had to do with the skid, not the SYE. I know I'll be ripping relocators off on rocks so I'm going to outboard mine ot be on the safe side.
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:20 AM   #8
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Outboarding shocks is on my 'to do' list.
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:24 AM   #9
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Yeah, front stuff I can pick lines and protect things there. But I admit I'm a dork when it comes to thinking about where my rear end is going when picking the next line. I drag my rear axle over stuff that could have been avoided. I am getting better though. Only one thump last weekend and it wasn't my gas tank skid this time.
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:29 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by TnDz TJ View Post
You all helped me a lot on the TT thread.... thanks....

Why the need for the new bolts? Curious...
You will see that the bolts have a self centering bowl and will not hold the pan tight. Make sure you buy washers too.
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:30 AM   #11
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I hear ya... pickin your line is key in just about every challenging obstacle... pickin RIGHT is when you don't need a winch to 'assist' you off a rock.

Most often than not, I find myself taking things slightly on the 'high side' of obstacles to ensure ample clearance underneath the diffs.

Gaining this 2.5" plus of belly clearance is surely gonna help me out.... I have caught more junk with that stock shovel... sigh.... on my third one... NO MORE!!! I SAY.... NO MORE!!! lol!!
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:45 PM   #12
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Did you use your old tran. mount or go with the lopro mount
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:45 PM   #13
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I've had the same skid for over a year. Love it. It really helped me on the deep mountain snow runs last winter, vs the years before.

I painted mine Rustoleum hammered black.

Hmm. I reused my stock pan bolts. I better go check on them.

Post more pics when you are done!!
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:28 PM   #14
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OK guys.... finished the TT.... here we go...

I did NOT go with a LoPro mount... used the factory mount

I started with a some measurements...



15" of ground clearance with the stock shovel.....



The angle of my rear driveline was sitting pretty at 16 degrees and 15 at the pinion.... just did this to show what the angle change is with THIS UCF extra clearance skid...



-I unbolted the 4 tranny mount bolts
-Took the 4 screws off the radiator shroud ( I knew I needed to relocate it )
-Jacked up the trans about 2.5" higher than the stock shovel and supported it with a jackstand.
-lowered shovel
-Installed UCF skid loosely
-Lowered tranny/t-case onto new skid aligning the trans mount... finished tightening the skid

Took some more measurements...



I gained a total of 2" of belly clearance... Just what I expected.


What I didn't expect was the LARGE increase in driveline angle... from 16 degrees to 28 degrees... WOW!!! The tape in the below pic shows where the splines were prior to the TT... 3.25" showing... now.... 4" showing.



I knew I needed to adjust my pinion angle from the start... so I hopped on that right away... about 45 minutes to an hour I had dialed my driveline and pinion back in with a couple of tries... no biggie there.... I have plenty of slip left in the driveline (3.75") and after adjustments, the total exposed slip is at 3.75" versed the 3.25" from before the TT...

I had to relocate the fan shroud DOWN about a 1/4" from stock... took like 10 minutes and a dremel tool.

I can definitely see why a lot of folks go with the Novak cable shifter... I am ok with the little tweeking I did on the rods and adjusting the linkage.... no binding at all and shifts smooth, though its not perfect by any means. Tomorrow will be the test run.

The front exhaust hanger is part of the trans mount, so the exhaust got pushed up a bit and I have contact at the upper control arm bolt with the muffler and the tailpipe now hits my rear shock. It's a solid contact at this point and no rattles, but needs some attention.

All in all... about 3.5 hours to get it done and back on the road with no vibes or rattles.

Now that I see why NEW BOLTS are needed, I will be replacing them, THANKS DOC!


***REMEMBER.... I had mostly everything I needed to get the TT done already... just needed the new skid.***

If you are starting from scratch.... you need DEEP pockets....

Here is the final outcome... I couldn't be happier.....

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Old 08-04-2012, 07:35 PM   #15
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What kind of black magic is that? Your skid just *poof* disappeared!

Good job! I can't wait until I get the parts together for mine. I'm to the point where prices keep rising so I may as well just order what I can and put it away while I can.
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:41 PM   #16
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LOL! Thanks..... it was 101 today... WAY too hot to get er done... but I pushed through it with a few beers... lol!!!
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:00 PM   #17
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Thanks for the update Todd ... I have a Rokmen skid that gains 2.25" over stock and working up to the installation. Your thread helps me see where the "gotchas" are

I love Virginia where everything is green, but try working in 101 degrees with 88% humidity sometime ... UGH
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:54 PM   #18
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Anytime, Phil.....

I don't think I left anything out as far I can see. The linkage is the biggest thing you will need to give attention to for sure. Mine is far from perfect, but it worked with a little tweek here and there. I may just make a new bracket to replace the one that mounts on the side of the t-case that hold the linkage bar from the body.
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:06 PM   #19
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Nice work Todd. Good gain on clearance.

I'm still a long way from that point, but it's something to shoot at. A little bit at a time.
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:26 PM   #20
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Thanks, Lindel.... If I would have thought it through completely.. I would have gone with the MEAGASHORT SYE
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Old 08-09-2012, 07:05 PM   #21
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Its always good to hear these things before you start a project like this. Is there anything else you might have done differently given the time and resources?
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Old 08-09-2012, 07:35 PM   #22
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I did the BL, MML, TT, and long arm lift all in two days while parked on the street in front of my house in Denver. I was amazed at the difference the TT made. If I had to do it over again and would do differently, I would find someone to let me use their garage to do it in! lol
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:45 AM   #23
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Nice write up ... I went with Nth Degree about 6 months ago... Same story... Inrollnwith guys on 40 s and clear almost everything... I was starting to hang up on the tank skid a lot so I opted for a savvy alm skid whiched allowed me to lift the tank an 1"... Very solid skid too! Good luck with your new found clearance!
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Old 08-10-2012, 07:31 AM   #24
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I'm shocked at that pinion angle.....it seems excessive. You sure that angle finder is right? I'd recommend going with the LoPro mount ASAP to reduce that operating angle. Just as a reference, my pinion/shaft angle was at 20* with my flat skid and LoPro mount with the rear axle in the stock location. It looks like you've got taller springs than I do and my skid sits the t-case a bit lower (to the skid) than the UCF does. In the mean time, I'd recommend putting some extra diff lube in to prevent the pinion bearings from running dry.
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Old 08-10-2012, 08:12 AM   #25
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Its always good to hear these things before you start a project like this. Is there anything else you might have done differently given the time and resources?
Um... short SYE for sure....which would be a different CV shaft
Novak cable shifter would be a plus, though I got my linkage working good

BE PREPARED for exhaust clearance issues. Since the main mount is part of the t-case ( right at the t-case mount ) it gets pushed up with everything else. I have body contact at the rear upper CA , shock, and up front at the tub I have a rattle at idle....

Quote:
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I'm shocked at that pinion angle.....it seems excessive. You sure that angle finder is right? I'd recommend going with the LoPro mount ASAP to reduce that operating angle. Just as a reference, my pinion/shaft angle was at 20* with my flat skid and LoPro mount with the rear axle in the stock location. It looks like you've got taller springs than I do and my skid sits the t-case a bit lower (to the skid) than the UCF does. In the mean time, I'd recommend putting some extra diff lube in to prevent the pinion bearings from running dry.

I was too! Angle find is dead on. I only have RC 4" coils.....I was thinking about adding the lowpro mount.... might be a good idea to get the t-case a little lower. Adding fluid is a good idea... though I over-filled it back in April as I was doing the lift install.

FYI... that pic of the pinion angle is AFTER the TT but BEFORE the pinion rotation.... it's not that bad now... when the pinion went up the angle descreased a lot. I have already had it wheelin last Sunday... no issues.
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Old 08-10-2012, 08:21 AM   #26
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So what's your current pinion angle? But yes, with such tall coils your goal should be to get that t-case as low as possible. If you want to get the exhaust back to being happy, shorten the exhaust mount. Wait until you do the LoPro mount before doing this.
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Old 08-10-2012, 11:38 AM   #27
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Yeah. No mods til the Lopro for sure. I gotta get back under and measure.
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4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
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Old 08-13-2012, 02:33 PM   #28
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So what's your current pinion angle? But yes, with such tall coils your goal should be to get that t-case as low as possible. If you want to get the exhaust back to being happy, shorten the exhaust mount. Wait until you do the LoPro mount before doing this.
Pinion is 23 and driveline is 24. I'm heading to the Rubicon on the 24th... everything should be good to go for the 4 day run.
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Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:51 AM   #29
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I had less dificulties... 1" MML which helped along with lopro tranny mount...
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Old 08-14-2012, 12:16 PM   #30
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No difficulties ... Just a bit more work I guess. A little contact here and there with exhaust is the only hang up right now.

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4" Lift, 4.56's, 33" Duratracs on M/T Classics
RR SYE, Tatton CV, MML, BL, TT, Dynomax Exhaust
Hella Lighting: Driving, Fogs and H4 E-Codes
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