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Old 06-22-2012, 08:23 PM   #1
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U-joint help

My 04 tj keeps eating u-joints in rear drive shaft I'm setting on a 2 inch budget boost with 31X10.50X15 tires every thing else is stock 3 sets of u-joints in a year and I don't do any hard core off roading any thoughts

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Old 06-22-2012, 08:35 PM   #2
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Your u joint angles are likely off from the BB, I suggest you measure and drop your tcase skid with washers a bit

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Old 06-23-2012, 01:06 AM   #3
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tcase drop or SYE
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:23 AM   #4
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I'd like to hold off on the sye until I have the $ to do a 4 inch lift
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:36 AM   #5
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Actually... you might get away with a 1" MML to get your angles back. I did a 2" BB a while ago and ran into vibes. Fixed it with a 1" t-case drop, then opted for a 1" MML instead of the t-case drop.

Your differential input and your t-case output should be parallel. If not.... this is your cause of your ujoints going bad so rapidly. This is for single u-joint shafts like the stock TJ rear shafts.
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:03 AM   #6
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He brings up a good point. A 1" MML can also be done WITHOUT a body lift. All you need to do is relocate the fan shroud. I speak from experience because I've done this myself. Sadly it did not help my vibrations because the rear u joints must be parallel but also have a maximum working angle. IIIRC it is about 3*, mine worked out with a little over 4*. Do a search for maximum drive shaft angle under my name, there's a decent thread on this

Edit: here's the thread

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/how-...le-121998.html
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:16 AM   #7
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Cool thanks
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Old 06-23-2012, 12:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xsnois View Post
My 04 tj keeps eating u-joints in rear drive shaft I'm setting on a 2 inch budget boost with 31X10.50X15 tires every thing else is stock 3 sets of u-joints in a year and I don't do any hard core off roading any thoughts
Has anyone jacked with the rear axle's pinion angle? Like did anyone, perhaps a previous owner, install a cam bolt kit for the rear control arms or adjustable length control arms so the rear axle's pinion angle could have been adjusted?

I ask those questions because unless your u-joint installer is screwing up the installation process, it sounds like your rear pinion angle could be the cause and that could only be if one of those two modifications I asked about had been made.
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Old 06-23-2012, 03:16 PM   #9
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No as far as I can tell every thing is stock / and I have put the u-joints in guess I need to check pinion angles because all the local guys I have talked to say a 2 inch lift shouldn't need t-case dropped or a sye
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Old 06-23-2012, 03:19 PM   #10
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If everything is stock, your factory-set pinion angle is fine. A 2" lift can sometimes require a slight, perhaps 1/2 or 5/8" t-case drop. My first lift was only 2" and it required a slight t-case drop to cure the mild vibes caused by the 2" lift. Where the drivetrain and its u-joints are concerned, even a mild vibration caused by the steeper u-joint angles created by a suspension lift can cause u-joints to fail.
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Old 06-23-2012, 03:21 PM   #11
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That does seem odd. Back when I had a 2.25" budget boost, a 1"mml cured the small amount of vibes I had. I ran the same stock driveshaft and u joints for over 3 years that way until my SYE. Something is a-miss.
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Old 06-23-2012, 03:26 PM   #12
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That does seem odd. Back when I had a 2.25" budget boost, a 1"mml cured the small amount of vibes I had. I ran the same stock driveshaft and u joints for over 3 years that way until my SYE. Something is a-miss.
A 1" MML reduces the drivetrain angles nearly in the same way as a t-case drop does. Either is useful for eliminating mild vibes.
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Old 06-23-2012, 03:34 PM   #13
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Since we are on the subject of angles and BB's and such... Is there a reason why I see some people only doing 2 spacers instead of all 4? It seems odd to me. I've come a cross it a few times though...
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Old 06-23-2012, 03:39 PM   #14
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Two spacers instead of four? There are six t-case bolt locations that would need spacers.
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Old 06-23-2012, 03:56 PM   #15
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Since we are on the subject of angles and BB's and such... Is there a reason why I see some people only doing 2 spacers instead of all 4? It seems odd to me. I've come a cross it a few times though...
You must be talking about spring spacers?

Some people will throw a couple 3/4" spacers on top of the front springs to level the sag on the front end due to a winch.
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Old 06-23-2012, 05:23 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJDave

You must be talking about spring spacers?

Some people will throw a couple 3/4" spacers on top of the front springs to level the sag on the front end due to a winch.
I think he means lifting the front via pucks can help with driveline angles because it makes the output of the tcase point down more similar to how a mml does but by liftin the whole vehicle. I don't know if there is any truth to it. I have suggested it before as an explanation as why my rig gets by with it's specs. But there have been no tests to back it up to my knowledge.
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Old 06-23-2012, 05:46 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00

I think he means lifting the front via pucks can help with driveline angles because it makes the output of the tcase point down more similar to how a mml does but by liftin the whole vehicle. I don't know if there is any truth to it. I have suggested it before as an explanation as why my rig gets by with it's specs. But there have been no tests to back it up to my knowledge.
math of triangles would prove your point, which I agree with. Though a mml would change the angle more drastically than just lifting the front end up.
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:21 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by darkproximity

math of triangles would prove your point, which I agree with. Though a mml would change the angle more drastically than just lifting the front end up.
That's what I figured too, I did the math out once when I was thinking about it and it helped about half as much as a 1 inch mml with a 3/4 spacer. Which kind of makes sense. We know how sensitive the driveshafts are, within 3 degrees. So it doesn't take much. And on the other end, people who get more lift in the rear than front from a new spring set may be more prone to vibes. I think a one inch spacer or one inch bigger spring, or even one net inch of lift of the front over the rear due to sag can be responsible for around half a degree at the tcase output. Now I used numbers off the top of my head, not the real numbers. At 10 feet from the axle mid line to out out it is .48 degree. At 5 feet it is .95 degree.
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:39 PM   #19
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2" suspension usually isn't enough to cause that serious of driveline vibrations/wear. Are the control arm bushings shot? That can let the axle twist with acceleration/braking and mess with your pinion angle.

Also, get your hands on some Spicer u-joints. The parts store cheapo's disintegrate after a year or so anyway...
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Old 06-24-2012, 12:01 AM   #20
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How tight were the u-joints after installed.if they tight this could also cause them to fail pretty fast.if they are tight you can lightly tap on the yoke to move the ears on the yoke out to reduce pressure on the caps.hope this helps and also were are you buying your joints. Ive found if younstay away from the dirt cheap joints they also last longer!!!
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Old 06-24-2012, 12:27 AM   #21
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I have been buying them @ Oreilies because that's the only option for a parts store in town
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:22 PM   #22
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Just broke my rear driveshaft u joint in my 97 tj and was curious to know what the correct replacement part would be? I was on the Quadratec website and saw both the Dana Spicer 153X and 213X? Also seen that Advance carries Moog joints? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:33 PM   #23
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Dana Spicer 5-153X,
Don't use cheap u-joints
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:52 PM   #24
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Thanks man! I'll go with the spicer joints.
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:17 PM   #25
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Just broke my rear driveshaft u joint in my 97 tj and was curious to know what the correct replacement part would be? I was on the Quadratec website and saw both the Dana Spicer 153X and 213X? Also seen that Advance carries Moog joints? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
You really can't place too much faith in Quadratec in such issues, many of their part numbers are either outdated or simply wrong. Not to mention their prices on such items are much more expensive than you can buy them for from other sources. Especially where their outrageous shipping charges are concerned.

For the TJ, the best/strongest/most durable reasonably priced u-joint for the driveshaft is the Spicer 5-1310x. The 5-153x is the older greasable u-joint which is weaker due to its grease channels, plus it needs more upkeep. The only time you'd want a greasable u-joint is if you do a LOT deep soupy mud like if you play in the mud pits every weekened.

Spicer's 5-1310x is triple sealed and their most durable cold-forged u-joint ever. I stopped using greasable u-joints in my Jeeps years ago, they just aren't the type to go with unless, again, you play mostly in deep soupy mud.
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Old 06-29-2012, 02:01 PM   #26
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Thanks Jerry. Ordered the 5-1310X but am also going to be needing a new pinion yoke as well. I'm fixing to stop by my local 4 wheel parts store soon but I would like to know if anyone has the proper part # for the Correct pinion yoke for my D35. I noticed their website has several different options such as

Reverse 35
C-clip and non C-clip
IFS and IFS Reverse

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-29-2012, 02:17 PM   #27
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C clip and non c clip
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Old 06-29-2012, 02:39 PM   #28
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http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrai...2fS2-4-6901-1x

Would this be the correct replacement part?
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:03 PM   #29
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That looks like the right one to me.
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Old 06-29-2012, 08:20 PM   #30
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I thought so. I guess reading it was for a "Reverse" D35 had me scratching my head. I'll go ahead and get in touch with Tom Wood to be absolutely sure. Thanks Jerry for pointing me in the right direction.

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