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Old 10-27-2011, 11:29 PM   #1
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Undercoating

I'm thinking about undercoating and am looking for advice.The underside is exceptionally clean with very little rust(90%+ factory paint).My question is this, Do I only need to wire brush where rust/flaking is present or scuff entire frame/floor pan area for undercoat to adhere? Thanks in advance for your time.

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Old 10-28-2011, 09:23 AM   #2
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That would be a lot of work with limited results. What about the areas you can't get at or areas inside doors, frame rails and up behind the taillights.
There are several recent Threads on undercoating (rustproofing??).
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/ratt...ng-113313.html

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/unde...ml#post1571005

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/ok-b...ml#post1548146

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Old 10-28-2011, 11:02 AM   #3
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Exactly. Don't want to do any more then needed but i live in the NE and got this jeep well cared for. just want to protect my investment.you stated limited results.Does that mean it's a waste of time/resources? my pockets aren't to deep these days.
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:06 AM   #4
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I undercoated my TJ about 10 months ago, and did not take a wire wheel to it. I just had the light rust taken off...bad decision, as the undercoat is beginning to flake off in small sections now that winter is on its way. I plan on taking a wire wheel to it and doing it the right way after the winter
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Old 10-28-2011, 02:01 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by slimweasel View Post
Exactly. Don't want to do any more then needed but i live in the NE and got this jeep well cared for. just want to protect my investment.you stated limited results.Does that mean it's a waste of time/resources? my pockets aren't to deep these days.
You can only get at the areas you see or have access to. The bottom part of a vehicle doesn't rust that bad except for certain areas, mostly toward the back.

Take that plate underneath the front fenders, where rust through shows up on top of the fender. You can't prepare that but a product such as Fluid Film can be sprayed in there using a spray can with a straw. Up in back of your tail lights is a dust prone/rust area. How would one ever prepare that area? Consider inside your frame rails, next to impossible to prepare those areas.

That's what I mean by limited results PLUS for a hard shelled product to work, surface preparation is critical. If rust starts forming under a hard shell product, then the problem has actually gotten worse. Hard shell products should be applied when the vehicle is new and before rust has a chance to start.

Lots of rustproofing products available in Canada, I don't know about the US. Fluid Film is common to both but generally overpriced here. Products here include Rust Check, Corrosion Free, Rust Block, Krown (drips for 2 or 3 days after application) plus others. WalMart does rustproofing as well but I don't know what product they use. Application is key to coverage, to prepared to take your vehicle back for a redo after inspection, if not done by a competent applicator.
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Old 10-28-2011, 03:14 PM   #6
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Seriously, don't waste your time with undercoating. Keep the underbody clean and washed out and you'll be in good shape. Remove the plastic rear wheel well liners for a couple reasons--they hold crap against the tub and it will give you better access to the body mount channel so you can keep it washed out. Keep the frame washed out and touched up and you'll be good to go. From direct experience, undercoating won't hold up forever and it's also a pain to deal with unless you never intend to touch your suspension and replace anything at all. A couple rattle cans of black paint, some Simple Green, and a low pressure hose are all you need to keep it in the same condition it is now.
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Old 10-28-2011, 05:11 PM   #7
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Seriously, don't waste your time with undercoating. Keep the underbody clean and washed out and you'll be in good shape. Remove the plastic rear wheel well liners for a couple reasons--they hold crap against the tub and it will give you better access to the body mount channel so you can keep it washed out. Keep the frame washed out and touched up and you'll be good to go. From direct experience, undercoating won't hold up forever and it's also a pain to deal with unless you never intend to touch your suspension and replace anything at all. A couple rattle cans of black paint, some Simple Green, and a low pressure hose are all you need to keep it in the same condition it is now.
Washing in the middle of winter isn't much fun around here. Frozen locks, chilled to the bone and all for naught on the next trip down a salted road. Marine environment doesn't help either.

As to being a pain to deal with, I replaced the power steering pump on my 2002 Grand Caravan 3.3L yesterday. The Fluid Film rustproofing on that vehicle was the least of my worries, a PITA job.

When it comes to suspension components, the lubricating/penetrating properties of products like Fluid Film make parts easier to remove, so the Mechanics say, my experience as well. Makes sense as parts aren't hard rusted together. On steel heater pipes/bypass pipes, that tend to rust, a coat of Fluid Film or Rust Check - Coat and Protect stays wet and inhibits rust on those as well. It also lubricates hinges and what ever gets sprayed inside the door panels. I use it on lock cylinders also.

Lots of dust and salt ions get up in the area behind the Jeep's tail lights and rust the back of the vehicle. I have sprayed water in there in the summer when things have a chance to dry quickly but believe that would worsen the situation in the winter. Lots of electrical connections up in there too, which Fluid Film helps remove moisture from and provide protection to. No doubt, Fluid Film protects any electrical connections it is sprayed on, including battery terminals. From: Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor
Quote:
Battery terminals
FLUID FILM is non-conductive, so clean around battery terminals, make connections and then spray with FLUID FILM. The non-drying characteristics of FLUID FILM provide long-term protection in this application. FLUID FILM also keeps battery hold downs from corroding. Unprotected terminals can lead to corrosion of the wiring harness, resulting in expensive repairs.
I use Fluid Film around major electrical components such as power modules, fuse boxes etc to arrest corrosion of conductors/connections.

Fluid Film is one of the products common to Canada and the US. There are effective products available form other manufacturers as well.

This is interesting: Corrosivity Map of NA: Corrosion and pollution in America
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Old 10-29-2011, 08:16 AM   #8
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Thanks to all who chimed in with advice.I'm inclined to go with IMPED on this as I've talked with co-workers who had similar advice as him. Also to IMPED, thanks for the heads up on rear wheel liners . I hadn't thought of that.
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Old 10-29-2011, 08:27 AM   #9
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I fluid-film my Jeep a 2 weeks ago. It went on easy and sticks great. This will be my 1st winter with my very well taken care of used Jeep and like others, I want to keep it rust free. I think I put it on a bit heavy….. but I'm learning. I feel sorry for the next guy who changes my oil.
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Old 10-29-2011, 08:14 PM   #10
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I think I put it on a bit heavy….. but I'm learning. I feel sorry for the next guy who changes my oil.
Not a problem. Back in the days of grease and graphite undercoating and bare hands, it was. Any excessive Fluid Film will drip off and the rest will spread itself around as it creeps and penetrates.

I was looking at a Jeep the other day, same year and color as mine, with less miles than mine. Lots of rust on the underbody of that Jeep whereas mine looks like new condition - a night and day comparison.

Did you spray inside your doors as well? Also the flat panels under the front fenders (top) have some openings where a straw can be used to get at that rust prone area. Washing the Jeep every day isn't going to stop rust in that area. Same thing in back of the front wheel well and the area behind the tail lights. You made the right decision to use Fluid Film.
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Old 10-29-2011, 09:49 PM   #11
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I didn't do inside the doors, but hit every other area mentioned.
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Old 10-30-2011, 07:57 AM   #12
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I didn't do inside the doors, but hit every other area mentioned.
You can drill a hole below the latch or spray up through the drain holes at the bottom to get Fluid Film in there to protect the seam and adjacent metal. Fluid Film will actually creep up, down and around to increase the coverage area.

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