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Old 11-22-2011, 09:03 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Got 4 Lo

not to be off topic but do you think i could run 33's and a auto locker in the stock D35 rear with the 2.5L with some mild wheeling mostly DD?
You can run whatever you'd like. Is it recommended most say no. I don't understand the point of putting a $600 locker in a turd axle. If you got the money for a locker put that towards a better axle first, then do a locker in that.

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Old 11-22-2011, 09:29 PM   #32
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Very interesting thread. I am running a Super Axle Super 35 Kit w/ Detroit locker and 4.56 gears. I installed mine last year after exhausting every means possible to upgrade to a
D44 or a 8.8. The D44 can NOT be purchased for less than $1200 anywhere near Iowa. I would have had to still regear and add locker. As mentioned earlier the D44 axle tubes are the same as the D35(See Jerry B). The 8.8 swap in a TJ is not nearly as easy as a YJ swap. Again by the time you add up all the LITTLE things that people are leaving out it is just not cost effective. If you don't have to regear this makes a huge difference and the 8.8 becomes VERY attractive. Again I could not find a 8.8, locked w/ 4.56's for what I paid for my Super 35. DO NOT buy a fake S35 and the best prices can be found from Gerald at Savvy.

You do not have to Baby a S35 either. I have 33's and can follow anyone anywhere. It is not the axles that make my Jeep week it is the driver.

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Old 11-22-2011, 09:31 PM   #33
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I always hear how awful the dana 35 rear is, but here is my latest moab trip with a locked rear 35. Mine is the white Jeep. I am not debating the 44 and 8.8 are not stronger. I am just saying it is a pretty good axle for most people to run.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/moab...es-120729.html
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:58 PM   #34
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This is just my two cents, but I have a D35/D30 combo with 3.07s on 32"s and I'm not going to upgrade either. I know a guy who grenaded his r/p twice on 31" bfg a/ts. I mean, the shaft size in a d35. is 1.18" and the shaft size in the d30 is 1.16. Do you really want to beef up something that small? It's gonna take money and fab work, but if you really want to run bigger tires, why not get a junk yard Ford 9 inch? They're stronger than a d44, and you can find them just about anywhere. Plus, if you're lucky and stumble across an old F150/Bronco with the 9" rear end, you've also just found a HP44 front end which is nice.
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:00 PM   #35
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it reminds me of that old saying ..... just polishing a turd.......as the 35 is a decnt mild rear end i have blown up two doing mild to moderate off roading just save up a little more cash and get a set of rubi 44 under there thats what im doingoh and i run 31's open diff so its a "safe" combo
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:01 PM   #36
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if your not running Rockwells you don't have enough axle.
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:10 PM   #37
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if your not running Rockwells you don't have enough axle.
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:29 PM   #38
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over in this thread a guy talks about shift problems after the detroint install with a manual
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/supe...ds-116191.html
now I havent read anything else but I think im going to go with a selectable anyway.

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Ive never heard anyone say that a detroit makes it hard to shift a 5 speed. Im not even sure why the rear end would change how your transmission shifts. I could be wrong, so anyone with some knowledge on this, enlighten us.

As far as running a super 35...you can only run the lockers that they provide because the super 35 changes your spline count, so unless you can find other lockers that are 30 spline dana 35 lockers, youve only got a few options.
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:38 PM   #39
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over in this thread a guy talks about shift problems after the detroint install with a manual
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/supe...ds-116191.html
now I havent read anything else but I think im going to go with a selectable anyway.
I have read and posted in that thread. The problem experienced is the same with all lockers. They will unload. It will make a load pop when you drive. It does not make it harder to shift. a True Trac is NOT a locker.
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:23 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick50471
if your not running Rockwells you don't have enough axle.
Haha...lmao
Run the S35 and learn how to drive unless of course you have your own fab shop, lots of tools, tons of time, knowledge of the swap and maybe a friend at the junkyard.
But then if you had all that you probably wouldn't be asking on WF
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:44 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twisted_TJI
Haha...lmao
Run the S35 and learn how to drive unless of course you have your own fab shop, lots of tools, tons of time, knowledge of the swap and maybe a friend at the junkyard.
But then if you had all that you probably wouldn't be asking on WF
Haha.. Lmao
Ok put a super 35 and learn how to drive? I hope your saying that because you know how dangerous they are on a dd due to being squirrelly having to get off the pedal in almost every corner you go into, because it will kick your jeep all over the road. And as far as knowing people, you don't have to know anybody to find a good deal, just takes time. The "Tons of time" part took me a few days rebuilding the whole damn thing from bearings, seals, carrier, ring gear ect. Tools if you got a welder your good because if you can afford a welder I'd imagine you got a grinder and some cut off wheels.
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:56 AM   #42
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I have read and posted in that thread. The problem experienced is the same with all lockers. They will unload. It will make a load pop when you drive. It does not make it harder to shift. a True Trac is NOT a locker.
Ihave pm'ed that guy
He has a detroit auto locker that fully locks,not a tru trac
And he has difficulty shifting the manual transmission as the locker locks and unlocks
No issues before the super 35 kit
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:58 AM   #43
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Here's a article from JP magazine on it. Hope this helps you.


You've heard us harp on the subject for years without once changing our tune; running an automatic locker in therear of a short-wheelbase Jeep can make for a miserable on-road driving experience. An automatic locker functions very simply. It's locked when power is applied to the axles and unlocked when no power is applied. That means every time you get on and off the gas, the locker locks and unlocks. The handling drawbacks manifest themselves when this happens in the middle of a turn, changing lanes, or negotiating curvy sections of road. On some Jeeps with supple suspensions, especially link-type suspensions, the locker actuation can cause the Jeep to change lanes or shoot violently to one side or the other. It's something the average enthusiast will become accustomed to rather quickly, but for us the acid test is always, "would I toss the keys to a non-enthusiast, my wife, or a valet?"

We wanted to see if we could take steps to improve these handling drawbacks. Granted, our stock-height, leaf-sprung '89 Wrangler test vehicle is a best case scenario for the auto locker, while the worst-case would be a TJ with a manual transmission, tall short-arm suspension, and larger tires.

Since we can't in good conscience recommend installing a locker of any type in a stock Dana 35 rear axle, we called Superior Axle & Gear for its Super 35 kit. This kit includes an Eaton Detroit Locker, Superior's superb 30-spline, 1.31-inch alloy axleshafts (stock Dana 35 is 27-spline, 1.16-inch), and a full installation kit. This would ensure we don't suffer any breakage during our testing. So after all our efforts are we satisfied? Nope. Although it helped a little, we still wouldn't toss the keys to a novice. It's still better to run a selectable locker or spool if you're concerned with street handling.
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:10 AM   #44
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The auto locker unload is specifically why I went with an ARB when I upgraded my D35 to Yukon shafts and 4.88's. I have a lockright in the D30 up front, but would LOVE an ARB up front.

For my wheeling style, the upgraded D35 works great. I have a 2.5L and have always been light on the gas pedal. I don't want to tear up my axle and I don't want to rut out the trail just to make it over an obstacle. I'll try it 3 times, and if I don't make it, I either go around or pull cable to get over.

A lot of making the decision to upgrade will depend on your wheeling style and your engine type. With my light gas foot (at least in the Jeep lol) and the 2.5L engine, I felt comfortable with the upgrade option. If my solution was always to gas through a problem and I had the 4.0L, my logic path would probably be different.
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:16 PM   #45
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subscribed... leaning towards an 8.8
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:35 PM   #46
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Here's a article from JP magazine on it. Hope this helps you.


You've heard us harp on the subject for years without once changing our tune; running an automatic locker in therear of a short-wheelbase Jeep can make for a miserable on-road driving experience. An automatic locker functions very simply. It's locked when power is applied to the axles and unlocked when no power is applied. That means every time you get on and off the gas, the locker locks and unlocks. The handling drawbacks manifest themselves when this happens in the middle of a turn, changing lanes, or negotiating curvy sections of road. On some Jeeps with supple suspensions, especially link-type suspensions, the locker actuation can cause the Jeep to change lanes or shoot violently to one side or the other. It's something the average enthusiast will become accustomed to rather quickly, but for us the acid test is always, "would I toss the keys to a non-enthusiast, my wife, or a valet?"

We wanted to see if we could take steps to improve these handling drawbacks. Granted, our stock-height, leaf-sprung '89 Wrangler test vehicle is a best case scenario for the auto locker, while the worst-case would be a TJ with a manual transmission, tall short-arm suspension, and larger tires.

Since we can't in good conscience recommend installing a locker of any type in a stock Dana 35 rear axle, we called Superior Axle & Gear for its Super 35 kit. This kit includes an Eaton Detroit Locker, Superior's superb 30-spline, 1.31-inch alloy axleshafts (stock Dana 35 is 27-spline, 1.16-inch), and a full installation kit. This would ensure we don't suffer any breakage during our testing. So after all our efforts are we satisfied? Nope. Although it helped a little, we still wouldn't toss the keys to a novice. It's still better to run a selectable locker or spool if you're concerned with street handling.
I had read that before and my personal experience with the same rear Detrot Locker is FAR different from theirs. With over 120K miles in a TJ with a rear Detroit Locker, I can only say it's a very well behaved locker that only takes a few days to learn to drive it to mostly eliminate its minor quirks. Within those few days, I learned without even realizing it how to drive it so it was mostly totally unnoticeable. Sure every few days it might do a little sideways lurch that was totally minor and a non-issue so I'm thinking that Jp magazine yahoo who wrote that drive it for a mile or two and came back crying that he could "feel it".

A Detroit Locker is, for 99% of any guy, a non-issue for any driving condition except for icy or snow-covered streets. I now have a Rubicon with air lockers but as I've said before, I still miss the Detroit Locker I had in the rear of my previous TJ that was stolen last year.

And actually, I think that Jp writer might have been filled with so much fear about the Detroit Locker from its old repuation that he never gave it a decent chance. Early Detroit Lockers could be a handful on the street but they redesigned it entirely 16-17 years ago which made it much better behaved on the street. They called the new version the Detroit Softlocker in an attempt to distance it from the old Detroit Locker. Today, the Detroit Locker and Detroit Softlocker are one and the same locker... which is, by far, the best behaved automatic locker of any of them.
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:39 PM   #47
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Do u still rebuild 8.8 if yes can I get a quote
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:34 PM   #48
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I've had my jeep with 456 gears. Open. Dana 30 35 combo on 33s for four years . And literally put this thing through hell trying to give myself a excuse to upgrade the axles. I just dont get it when I hear people are blowing these axles up so easily. Even been debating on upgrading to the 35s I want to see if that will put them over the edge. If that finally does it I will have my excuse to upgrade. But ultimately I say if it ain't broke don't fix the damn thing.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:28 PM   #49
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It seems to be an east coast west coast thing. Over there the pos fords rust out and go to the junkyard but here they are far scarcer. Best quote I got from ecgs was 2300 shipped. I got 4:88's F/R along with Ziplockers F/R, 30 spline Ten Factory chromo axles and master install kits for $2200. For me it was a no-brainer especially considering how low the 8.8 hangs when on 33's.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:34 PM   #50
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It seems to be an east coast west coast thing. Over there the pos fords rust out and go to the junkyard but here they are far scarcer. Best quote I got from ecgs was 2300 shipped. I got 4:88's F/R along with Ziplockers F/R, 30 spline Ten Factory chromo axles and master install kits for $2200. For me it was a no-brainer especially considering how low the 8.8 hangs when on 33's.
What kinda axles were those and were from. And yes ecgs is kinda expensive in my opinion 2 thats y I plan on getting one out of a junkyard and doing it all myself
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:40 PM   #51
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Factory 30/35. I had a friend refer me to his gear guy for the install but I pulled the axles and put them back under the Jeep.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:52 PM   #52
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Factory 30/35. I had a friend refer me to his gear guy for the install but I pulled the axles and put them back under the Jeep.
U running 33s or 35s, and so u got reagears f/r, lockers f/r and chromoly axles f/r, for 2200 that's pretty good, is that still with the c clips
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:58 PM   #53
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I just got my beast back tonight. I went with the super 35 and yukon locker rear and the super 30 yukon locker in front with 4.56 gears. I had 3.07 stock, the differance was amazing. I have not wheeled it yet but I did research and asked many questions from the guru's on here. The shop that did my work welded the tubes to prevent twist.

I am satisfied that I can take my ride anywhere and not worry about my set up. Everything on a jeep has options to make it better so the super 35 was my choice for price and reliability.
I'm running 33" now with 4.0

http://sams4x4store.com/SuperiorDana35AxleKit.htm


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Old 01-21-2013, 09:58 PM   #54
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I run 33's and when they wear out hope to go to 35's. As far as the axles go I already had Superior Discoveries up front so just the rear shafts were changed. Still run the C-clips in back. So yeah, gears, lockers, rear 30 spline shafts and gear setup.
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:45 AM   #55
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What about an 07' JK 2dr? I have only seen for YJ,TJ's....I have dana 35 with 4.10 gear
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Old 05-04-2013, 06:20 AM   #56
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What about an 07' JK 2dr? I have only seen for YJ,TJ's....I have dana 35 with 4.10 gear
Thought all jks came with a 44 rearend
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Old 05-04-2013, 07:03 AM   #57
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I have and run a -35c, I always heard the phrase about 'polishing a turd' and decided I was going to run it just to see if I could make it strong enough to stop being a 'turd'. Doing an 8.8 swap is the most common, and in Denver there is a guy on CL that will sell you, for around $900 an 8.8 that is bolt in ready, but why switch an axle that the main problem is the c-clips (the -35c) for an 8.8 that also has c-clips? I looked at the c-clip eliminator kit for the -35 and it is a very viable option.

I went with alloy shafts (27 spline, easy to find a spare if one breaks, a stock shaft will work), I also put on the Superior truss, True-Trac, and 4.88's to help lower the strain turning my 33's. I'm also not throttle heavy but I do a lot of hard wheeling and so far it's held up very well. There are a lot of great options, and no matter what anyone tries to tell you, keeping and building up the -35c is certainly one of them.

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Old 05-04-2013, 09:33 PM   #58
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A D35 is not made of glass like many think.
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Old 05-04-2013, 09:46 PM   #59
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A D35 is not made of glass like many think.
I will definitely test that theory!
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Old 05-05-2013, 03:15 AM   #60
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I will definitely test that theory!
I've been trying to break my Dana 35 now that I have a dana 44 ready in the garage with no luck. More wheel hop it is!

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