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Old 07-24-2009, 06:44 PM   #1
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Very confused.............?

ok so i just changed my plugs and wires, the gap was set .56 (autolight plat.) ....... and i changed the starter on wednesday........... so after i finish up the plug work i go to start it up and it doesnt. so i keep on cranking it then it finally starts. so i shut it down and then try to start it back up again and again it takes a few cranks to start again so i let it run again and again shut it down. i wait a few more mins and try to start and yes....... it takes a few cranks to start it again............... so then i let it run for about 10 mins and shut it down again and just for the heck of it i try one more time to start it up and it starts right up what is going on, is it the starter, the plug gap, or was it getting to use the plugs and wire set that has not been changed in 104,000 lol seriously.......... dont know what to do HELP!!!

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Old 07-24-2009, 06:51 PM   #2
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How was it starting before all this? And was it your old plugs whose gaps were .056 or did you set the new ones to that? The factory spec is of course .035. What model Autolite platinums did you install?

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Old 07-24-2009, 06:59 PM   #3
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that's the thing, i changed the starter and it started right up, but stupid me only started it once and since it started right up i didnt try it again , the old ones were almost .70, very worn ......... the new ones - AutoZone.com | | Spark Plug | AUTOLITE PLATINUM PLUG
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Old 07-24-2009, 07:39 PM   #4
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sounds like the motor is cranking more to start by your description. that would have nothing to do with your starter. if the engine is cranking, the starter is working. .056 is not the right gap, as jerry said.
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Old 07-24-2009, 08:37 PM   #5
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what should i change it to? the service manual says .48-.53(lol, i checked after i did it), is there really that big of a difference?.........do you think the wrong gap is whats causing the the cranking?
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Old 07-24-2009, 08:39 PM   #6
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also, why would it start when the original plugs were gaped .70?
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Old 07-24-2009, 08:44 PM   #7
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didn't see the 2.4 motor in your sig till now. that changes things a little.

its still confusing whats happening. does it crank longer than it used to before starting? and how does it run after that? how many miles are on it? the wires are due at 60k if i remember right.
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Old 07-24-2009, 08:55 PM   #8
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what should i change it to? the service manual says .48-.53(lol, i checked after i did it), is there really that big of a difference?.........do you think the wrong gap is whats causing the the cranking?
Whoops sorry, it looks like your newer 2.4L engine runs with a wider gap than the older engines we have do.
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:11 PM   #9
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no its a shorter crank now then before........ it runs fine after it starts............104,000...........
just changed the wires for the first time in the cars life...........???????.......... so what do u think the verdict is?
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:17 PM   #10
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wow.....ok, so it cranks normal, and runs fine, whats the problem? does it not crank sometimes when you turn the key?
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:22 PM   #11
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no, it does not crank normal......... ?
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:33 PM   #12
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sounds like the lash on the starter motor, double check the gap..
not sure if you need to shim the starter or not.. does it sound like after you let go of the key the starter is still engaged or is there any grinding noise?
not sure if this will be helpful but worth a shot to check
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Old 07-24-2009, 10:47 PM   #13
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Ok...from your first post this sounds like your fuel pump. I think that it is coincedence this started after your plugs.
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:29 PM   #14
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What about the distributor cap and rotor?
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Old 07-25-2009, 01:09 AM   #15
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could be the check valve in your gas tank not working and letting the fuel drain ouf of the lines. try turning the key to on wait a few seconds, off, on wait, off, on wait then start. if it starts rite up its a fuel issue.
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Old 07-25-2009, 07:46 AM   #16
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that motor doesn't have a cap and rotor, but the descriptions of the problem keep changing, so it is way too confusing untill there is more clear info of what he is expereincing.

we're getting things that sound like starter, then fuel pump, then tune up probs, its all over the place.
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Old 07-25-2009, 09:20 AM   #17
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Old 07-25-2009, 06:08 PM   #18
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lol i know........... a friend of mine who is a mechanic came over to look at it and from hearing it start up a couple times he strongly feels its a ground issue, so he was saying how i should find all the the ground wires that are accessible and clean them up............. what do you guys think?....... i am going to dive into this tomorrow.......
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Old 07-25-2009, 06:18 PM   #19
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I personally think if you did have this problem before you did the starter and plugs thays a great place to start. Check your installation of the starter again make sure the ground on that is good yes.
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Old 07-27-2009, 06:29 PM   #20
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ok so i remember someone talking about turning the key three times in a row to test the check engine light. so i did that just for the heck of it because of my starting problem, and after i did it my check engine light would start blinking and the car would turn right over when i turned the key, i did it again and it did the same thing........ what in the world does this mean? lol.............. also i forgot to mention the check engine does not stay on after............
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Old 07-27-2009, 06:48 PM   #21
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now it sounds like a leaking fuel pressure check valve in the tank. if it cranks and cranks before startintg, and then if it starts fine after cycling the key thats it.
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Old 07-27-2009, 06:57 PM   #22
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ok, i forgot to mention it comes up with the code p0230 which is - No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking....... what does that mean? and also if it is the leaking fuel pressure check valve in the tank should i try and fix it or is it not worth the trouble?
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Old 07-27-2009, 07:35 PM   #23
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also how much is a fuel pressure valve?
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Old 07-27-2009, 08:11 PM   #24
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ok, i forgot to mention it comes up with the code p0230 which is - No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
lol
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Old 07-27-2009, 09:17 PM   #25
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^really.

now its a crank sensor
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Old 07-27-2009, 10:50 PM   #26
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so what do you guys think?
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Old 07-28-2009, 09:21 AM   #27
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WooooW. You must have some gremlins bro.
Clear the codes and go through your normal cranking. If it fails check your codes again. If that code comes back then check ALL your connections and replace cps. This code could be a stored code and have nothing to do with this.
Code doesn't come back then change the fuel valve. Not hard to do.
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Old 08-03-2009, 11:10 PM   #28
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why not just change the whole fuel pump, at autozone its only $171, and as far as i know it includes everything (fuel valve, fuel pump, etc...), i mean if i have to change a fuel valve anyway, by itself it is $120..... why not pay the extra money and change out the whole thing..... does this sound like a good idea?...........
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Old 08-03-2009, 11:51 PM   #29
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Might as well if it's the stock pump.
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Old 08-04-2009, 08:34 PM   #30
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ok but am i right about the fuel pump including everything i need..... like the fuel valve, fuel filter..... and while im there, is there anything else i should replace or the just do the fuel pump

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