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Old 05-27-2008, 02:22 PM   #1
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Want to build a wrangler with about 10k

I want to spend like 6k-7k on the wrangler and have about 4k for lift+tires. This doesn't need to be an offroad machine as it will spend most of it's time getting me to school and back, but I would like to be able to take it offroad (nothing serious, just driving around on dirt roads) and not have the lift break or anything. I want to put on some 35x12.5x18's, what lift should I get to accommodate them? Also, I want some half doors and some black padding to go around the roll cage (to make the roll cage look thicker and feel softer to touch), so leave me some money for that. Thanks

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Old 05-27-2008, 04:17 PM   #2
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all TJ's come with roll bar padding, and you can get half doors on your jeep, don't get one that has full doors, otherwise its hard to find them separate,

the 6" OME lift from dpgoffraod which probably be around a grand or maybe $600 i dont know call him and talk to him
that'll be the best you could get pretty much and then BFG all terrains for around $200 each

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Old 05-27-2008, 04:48 PM   #3
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Well I know the manager at America's Tires around here so I'll get a deal on them. I'm planning on either getting some Kumho or Nitto Terra Grapplers, I like their aggressive look. I'm betting I can get all the tires and good looking rims for like $1500-2000.

Also, what can I do to give the jeep a wider stance? I heard something on here that they make like 2" kits that you can bolt on to your tires to make them wider, but I also heard that they have a tendency to break or something.
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Old 05-27-2008, 04:54 PM   #4
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id get 1.25" spacers and if you crank them down they wont break off
http://www.4x4rockshop.com/scripts/p...idProduct=2432

and get tires that are 12.50 and some tires with 3.75 backspacing

and if you can find some ways to save money, get some flat fenders so the tires look like they stick out even more
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Old 05-27-2008, 05:06 PM   #5
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With that much money i assume you want a jeep with 36-37" tires right?

I vote on rock krawler 6" long arm kit
sye and cv kit for the drive train

D44 axles (rubis come with them)

and then armor with whatever else you have.

There is no need for spacers. Just get different Backspacing rims (3.5-3.25) and you will be happy.
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Old 05-27-2008, 08:31 PM   #6
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if you dont plan on doing too serious of offroading.. id recommend keeping your COG low..

my lift that ill be finishing this summer currently fits 33s.. with the addition of tube fenders sometime around xmas time this coming year.. im looking at 36'' iroks

look for a jeep with a d44 rear axle to run your 35s..

check out dpgoffroad.com for their lifts.. their ultimate kit is about 2k.. then tube fenders will run you about another 1100.. (t&tcustoms) and you'll have PLENTY of room for 35s while keeping a LOW COG.. which is what you want..

then a set of steelies will run you about 40-50 a rim.. which you will need a wider backspacing to run bigger tires..

my goal is about the same.. im running 2'' lifted coils, with 1.25'' coil spacers (actually mine are adjustable but i have em set at 1.25''.. i also run a jks 1.25'' body lift with 1'' mml.. with the addition of tube fenders and control arms.. ill be running my 36s
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Old 05-27-2008, 09:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
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With that much money i assume you want a jeep with 36-37" tires right?

I vote on rock krawler 6" long arm kit
sye and cv kit for the drive train

D44 axles (rubis come with them)

and then armor with whatever else you have.

There is no need for spacers. Just get different Backspacing rims (3.5-3.25) and you will be happy.
It doesn't necessarily have to be 36-37's. 35's would fit me fine.

@MoA: What is COG? And why do I want tube fenders? I always liked the big bushwacker fenders..

There is a black wrangler somewhere on this forum that nobody seemed to like on 37"s that i thought looked sweet but would look better with 35's. Anybody know which car I'm talking about?
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Old 05-27-2008, 09:21 PM   #8
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center of gravity..

its your choice.. bushwacker fenders can break alot easier..

tube fenders however ADD protection to your tub.. not just looks.. also you can run 2'' bigger tires on the same lift..

imo.. id rather keep my jeep as low as possible and run the biggest tire as possible.. ext me planning on running 36s on 3.25-3.5 suspension, 1.25'' body, and tube fenders..

as apposed to running a 6'' lift with the same tires



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Old 05-27-2008, 09:24 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by fr0st m0nkey View Post
It doesn't necessarily have to be 36-37's. 35's would fit me fine.

@MoA: What is COG? And why do I want tube fenders? I always liked the big bushwacker fenders..

There is a black wrangler somewhere on this forum that nobody seemed to like on 37"s that i thought looked sweet but would look better with 35's. Anybody know which car I'm talking about?
That's a no-no!!! Jeeps are not "cars"!!! They're Jeeps, or Heeps!!!

Don't take me too seriously, just trying to save you some grief!!!
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Old 05-27-2008, 09:40 PM   #10
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i dont even dare to call my jeep a suv..

=D
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Old 05-27-2008, 09:48 PM   #11
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or a truck
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Old 05-27-2008, 10:16 PM   #12
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Old 05-27-2008, 11:58 PM   #13
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Old 05-28-2008, 01:22 AM   #14
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Jeeze sorry guys, haha. I have a truck right now that I call a car (it's a ford ranger).

Anyway, 36-37" tires look a little too big for me. How about some good pics of wranglers on 35's?
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Old 05-28-2008, 01:27 AM   #15
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i got 6" of lift and 35s and thats a bit too much lift for them. I would have gone with 36s if i had a bit beefier axles however the 35s are PUSHING the D35 axle. My rims are 3.5 bs




on a side note about the ranger, My company car is a Ranger and when i get in it to drive, i do feel like i'm driving a car
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Old 05-28-2008, 07:09 AM   #16
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I would pass on the 18" rims but that just me.. get what you want.. as for fitting 35's correctly. You need 4-5" of lift, correct bump stops( so the tires don't smash the fenders) and an SYE kit for the transfercase, new rear drive shaft etc. Are you going to install this stuff yourself or have a shop do it? Don't forget about new gears etc, and shop costs if they do it. Here is what I would do:

Prices are ball park..look at sites like, 4x4 rockshop, 4x4groupbuy etc
Rubicon express 4.5" super flex @ $1200
SYE/ Drive shaft: @$600 Tomwoods
4.56 or 488 gears, @$500
Shocks: $200
15x8 0r 15x10 $250
5: 35" tires $1000

Don't forget install cost.. most shop charge 75+ per hour
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Old 05-28-2008, 12:48 PM   #17
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4Jeepn, thats why you have body lift. Take a look at my rig, i have a 2" BL and no extended bump stops i have no problems keeping the tires out of the flares. There is still about an inch left before i hit the bump stops which would put my tires perfectly under the flares..




as the 18" rims go, dont do it. It hurts performance offroad and increases cost by a lot
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Old 05-28-2008, 02:25 PM   #18
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4Jeepn, thats why you have body lift. Take a look at my rig, i have a 2" BL and no extended bump stops i have no problems keeping the tires out of the flares. There is still about an inch left before i hit the bump stops which would put my tires perfectly under the flares..

For parking lot ice bergs it would appear your okay..

Mine on the other hand flexed so much in the front it bent the trac-bar over the diff housing. Thus custom bumpstops where needed....
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Old 05-28-2008, 02:37 PM   #19
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If you are not doing serious offroading i'd go with the Rubicon Express 3.5" lift and maybe a inch of body lift. Then get some 33's. With the d30/35 the axle isn't built to take 35's and may cause problems down the road. I'd also invest in a good winch and bumper. Trail supplies (high jack, shakels, straps).

Fender Flares, skid plates, gears, if you decide to do serious wheeling get lockers.

Figure out what the jeep will be used for before spending all your money. If you aren't going to use it for anything crazy just save some money for when you break something because it's gonna happen.

Also shops charge a lot so learn to be handy around your Jeep. You'll be glad you have a Jeep and not a small compact. until gas prices go up more
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Old 05-28-2008, 03:40 PM   #20
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heres osme pics
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2671613
first 35's with 4" then added 2" BL so 35's with 6"

(springs sagged actually so more like 3" and 5" most likely)
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Old 05-28-2008, 04:14 PM   #21
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For parking lot ice bergs it would appear your okay..

Mine on the other hand flexed so much in the front it bent the trac-bar over the diff housing. Thus custom bumpstops where needed....
first things first, HATER


as the track bar goes, you got pics? Also do you have a drop bracket from the frame on your track bar?
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Old 05-28-2008, 06:34 PM   #22
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I think I'm going to buy a wrangler before I start making decisions about what I'm going to buy-- what do you guys think, haha?
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Old 05-28-2008, 06:43 PM   #23
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honestly you're better off planning on where you want to end up and then buying a wrangler. For example 4 banger vs the I6... trannies... differentials... axles.. etc. What i'm saying is let say you buy the 4 banger version with the smaller axles. it will cost you more to build it up then it would cost you to build a 6 with the d44s. A rubi would be best but deals on those are tough to find.
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Old 05-28-2008, 08:22 PM   #24
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What are the advantages of the 6 over the 4? I have a 4.0L v6 in my truck right now and I drove my dad's 4 cylinder tacoma and it seemed to have plenty of power, too. Did they make a 4 cyliner wrangler with a D44 rear axle? Because I'd rather have the mpg than power. (Like I said, it probably is only going to see light offroad use every once and a while... I live in Stockton, CA, mostly paved roads around here).
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:10 PM   #25
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I dont think they made a 4 with the d44 from the factory however i'm pretty sure you can fine one with it swapped by a previous owner. The I6 has more torque than the 4 banger obviously. If you're gonna get a 4 banger i'd look into the 2.4 instead of the 2.5. The 2.4 has more power and its more economical. Many people here get the 2.5 because of mpg and then end up putting 35s on there and get worse mpg than i do with my 4.0. With the 4 banger you gotta floor the gas much more often than you do with the I6 so... If you honestly want mpg, look in another direction because a wrangler is not the golden egg here. People with the 4 banger also report having very hard time on the highways especially with bigger tires and lift. I have no problem at all with my 6.
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Old 05-29-2008, 01:44 AM   #26
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The four cylinder is the original Jeep engine. As long as it is mated to a manual shift transmission you will be fine. If you are looking for economy look elsewhere. When I was commuting 124 miles a day I would get around 18 mpg. Now that I drive surface streets for a round trip of 10 miles a day I get around 14 mpg. I have 31" tires and I have not corrected my speedometer for the tire change, so the figures are approximations.
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:23 AM   #27
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first things first, HATER


as the track bar goes, you got pics? Also do you have a drop bracket from the frame on your track bar?
Only the pic have is the aftermath below with me in the mud fixing it on the trail after it was welded and put back in. Only drop bracket is the factory one. That bar is the RE trac-bar and the diff is a 60. Really my fault as my testing of everything was on a trail run.. but we got out just fine.

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Old 05-29-2008, 03:39 PM   #28
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hhhmm weird, that trackbar is nearly straight.
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Old 05-29-2008, 09:53 PM   #29
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I'm considering just buying this and sitting on the extra cash for maintenance and future upgrades. What do you guys think?

http://stockton.craigslist.org/car/662476267.html
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Old 05-29-2008, 09:59 PM   #30
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go with coils and round headlights.. instead of leaf springs and square headlights =D


jk do what you want.. but there is a VERY nice jeep for sale in the for sale forum here on this board.. a very nice red one =p but i think he was wanting 15k a couple months ago

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