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Well hell, i am the unlucky one after lift

5K views 34 replies 16 participants last post by  alanc1100 
#1 ·
I I got my OME Ultimate lift installed recently and I'm sad and kinda pissed to have to put more money into it to get rid of these vibes I am now getting. They are really bad at take off and 2nd / 3rd gear. After that it's all smooth including 75mph on the highway.

Don't have the funds to do an SYE and rear UCAs either. Another forum member did the same lift in same year and model wrangler as I have, no vibes.

Looks like I'm gonna go ghetto style and drop the t-case a smidgen. Looking at the write up from 4x4xplor.com with the washers instead of a flat out 1" drop. Would like to make it least noticeable as possible.

I try to do things the right way the first time so this kinda chaps my ass to have to go this route. Just thought I'd vent just a bit.

Major suckage man!!
 
#2 ·
Also check your U joints and yokes for binding. You might be able to relieve them a little with dremmel for now.

Hate to tell you this, but the SYE and CV is prolly gonna be considered a repair part soon and not a mod. :(
 
#3 ·
Pretty sure I'm past a dremmel fix.

12* rear pinion, 9* transfer case yoke, 20* drive shaft slope.

I can save some money to do the SYE but it just pisses me off to have dumped $4k in tires, wheels, lift, speedo gear and rear bumper with carrier to find that I need to dump another $~700. The CFO of the house is not going to like this which is why I am going to go with the T-case drop for now to align my slopes better so I'm not SOL somewhere when everything decides to fail.
 
#4 ·
Add just enough washers to put the transfer case output @ 12° and see where that puts your drive shaft. Make sure you're measuring the drive shaft compared to the output/ pinion shafts, not compared to actual horizontal. If you can get the shaft down to 15° or less you should be good.
 
#5 ·
Cases like yours is exactly why I never agree with those on this board who seem to think you can get away without doing an SYE if you stick to X amount of lift or less. It doesn't hold true for everyone, and they end up very disappointed when they find out they now need to sink another large sum of money into their Jeep when they weren't expecting to. Unfortunately many people on this board continue to give this bad advice and mislead people.

Fortunately for you the t-case drop should be minimal and it will get you by for now. When you can afford it, you will really like the SYE; it's one of the best things I've done to my Jeep. Regardless of what others around here seem to think, it is definitely a needed upgrade. You'll be glad you got rid of that weak slip-yoke and drive shaft. I've seen a fair share of them bend or break on the trail.
 
#6 ·
I'm actually going to have to be THAT guy. We say it time and time again here and there's always those that aren't going to listen. When you're doing a lift, and tires, and axles, etc. etc. etc. you need to factor in ALL of the costs associated with it. Because when you cheap out and you try and not do a SYE/CV or don't do the adjustable control arms. You end up with situations like this. An undriveable Jeep and a broke customer. :banghead: You can lead a horse to water...
 
#7 ·
I'm planning a 4" Old Man lift soon, and I already decided to do the SYE and CV no matter if my lift plans change or get delayed...My Tcase rear seal is seeping, so that tells me I gotta go in it anyway.
 
#8 ·
burton160w said:
I'm actually going to have to be THAT guy. We say it time and time again here and there's always those that aren't going to listen. When you're doing a lift, and tires, and axles, etc. etc. etc. you need to factor in ALL of the costs associated with it. Because when you cheap out and you try and not do a SYE/CV or don't do the adjustable control arms. You end up with situations like this. An undriveable Jeep and a broke customer. :banghead: You can lead a horse to water...
It's not that I cheaped out at all. I was even told by Dirk at DPG that it's a toss up and to see how it is after you do the install. Hell, even Tom Woods himself has given this advise. I was just the unlucky one. It's not like I threw my life savings away. It only took a couple months to save that money. I just hope this can be helpful to the others wanting to this exact same lift to have the funds insight if they need to. I did my homework, I contacted the pros and did the install, I just do happen to be the guy that bad karma follows. The 1" MML had to have helped some, just not enough.
 
#9 ·
2002TJ said:
I'm planning a 4" Old Man lift soon, and I already decided to do the SYE and CV no matter if my lift plans change or get delayed...My Tcase rear seal is seeping, so that tells me I gotta go in it anyway.
How do you get 4" OME? 2" springs with 2" BL?
 
#14 ·
530ktm said:
Like they say, some Jeeps react differently than others. Usually the MML always does away with vibes and raising the Jeep up 2 inches should not require the SYE. I have never experienced any problems with mine.
No offense to anyone out there at all, but I'm starting to loath that phrase. I guess it's cause, like I said earlier bad karma follows me, but I mean really. Same parts, same specs, same everything. Just annoys the shit outta me.

But, such is life huh? :)
 
#15 ·
Sucks you're having those issues. My last rig took a 2.5" OME lift no issues... Then it got totaled.

My luck when I get my next one it'll give me fits. Such is life with a Heep.
 
#16 ·
Don't feel bad at ALL I had to go thru the same thing they sell you the lift like that's all you need then comes, transfer case drop no take that off install sye and new driveshaft, no wait UCA's no wait rear adjustable track bar etc etc
And it's nothing with your jeep, none of the jeeps are ever the same what I might need you don't need etc
 
#17 ·
Yeah I read through the issues you had with yours. It was painful just to witness.

I'm really really hoping that all I have to do is drop in some washers to get the vibes to go away for now then get SYE and new DS later. Rear uppers are pretty pricey too.
 
#19 ·
I do have one question to all this though. If I drop the tcase, will I need to install the transfer linkage bracket that came with the body lift? I didn't install it cause I had the 1" MML and per JKS' instructions, I didn't need to.
 
#20 ·
Hammerwalk said:
I do have one question to all this though. If I drop the tcase, will I need to install the transfer linkage bracket that came with the body lift? I didn't install it cause I had the 1" MML and per JKS' instructions, I didn't need to.
You're gonna hate this, but every jeeps different, you'll prob have to do the drop and see.
 
#23 ·
Ive had nothing but probs with lifts on mine in the past. Ive screamed and yelled, cursed the manufactuers and even thought about selling the jeep. Ended up removing lift, taking out mml and putting it back to stock. Ok maybe im not as tall as most, but I like the smooth ride from 0-85mph.
 
#24 ·
Hammerwalk said:
You're killing me smalls!!
I didn't, however stock linkage becomes crap for a lot of people. Mine worked great with a drop. Still works great without the drop. You will need to adjust it but it should be fine. I have dealt with a lot of issues with that shifter linkage so if you do run into issues give me a pm. Also look into the Novak cable. I'm going to get it when I get everything else for a t tuck.
 
#26 ·
computeruser said:
Why is it that nobody does the adjustable arms and SYE before they do the lift? It seems like that would make more sense from a budgeting standpoint as opposed to ending up with a marginally usable vehicle pending saving up more coin to finish the job...
Because a lot of people won't need to do that. And it's close 1000 bucks of your going with good parts. When someone may be paying half tht for the lift. Plus most people are more concerned with looks then function :banghead: :(
 
#27 ·
computeruser said:
Why is it that nobody does the adjustable arms and SYE before they do the lift? It seems like that would make more sense from a budgeting standpoint as opposed to ending up with a marginally usable vehicle pending saving up more coin to finish the job...
Because it requires a new driveshaft to fit the fixed yoke. When you lift it would likely require another new drive shaft. They run about 300 a pop.
 
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