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Old 05-09-2012, 08:17 PM   #31
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I have a question..... I just bought a ford 8.8 with a 3.73ratio to replace my D35c with 3.07 on the rear, what should I use on the front to even the ratio out? i know I can't keep the D30 on the front

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Old 05-09-2012, 08:49 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loomisman View Post
I have a question..... I just bought a ford 8.8 with a 3.73ratio to replace my D35c with 3.07 on the rear, what should I use on the front to even the ratio out? i know I can't keep the D30 on the front
Why not? The way I understand it is that unless you are really torturing your Jeep the D30 generally wont be under enough stress to become an issue. The D30 is a decent front end and can withstand locked 35's. Plus they sell a 3.73 ratio for the front so unless you want to change the axle up front just to have something better, I'd say save some cash for other mods. Just an opinion and Im no expert, just relaying my limited knowledge and what I decided was best for me.

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Old 05-09-2012, 09:05 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilYeller

Why not? The way I understand it is that unless you are really torturing your Jeep the D30 generally wont be under enough stress to become an issue. The D30 is a decent front end and can withstand locked 35's. Plus they sell a 3.73 ratio for the front so unless you want to change the axle up front just to have something better, I'd say save some cash for other mods. Just an opinion and Im no expert, just relaying my limited knowledge and what I decided was best for me.
X2

I would actually swap to another d30 or hp30 with 3.73s in it. Much cheaper.
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:11 PM   #34
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ok thanks
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:43 PM   #35
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$4500 is alot .I think it's like a 1/2" shorter so 1/4" on each side . You won't even notice it . I got mine from ECGS for around $1500 that's with a lock rite . The stock shafts are pretty strong as it is so I did not opt for them , used breaks , 4.10, and a solid diff cover is what I think I went with . Put it in the jeep by myself in a day .i wheel pretty hard on 35" Baja claws and haven't busted a stock 8.8 shaft yet .
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:46 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by liredneck
$4500 is alot .I think it's like a 1/2" shorter so 1/4" on each side . You won't even notice it . I got mine from ECGS for around $1500 that's with a lock rite . The stock shafts are pretty strong as it is so I did not opt for them , used breaks , 4.10, and a solid diff cover is what I think I went with . Put it in the jeep by myself in a day .i wheel pretty hard on 35" Baja claws and haven't busted a stock 8.8 shaft yet .
Correct stock 88 shafts are good up to at least 37s locked.
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:28 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liredneck
$4500 is alot .I think it's like a 1/2" shorter so 1/4" on each side . You won't even notice it . I got mine from ECGS for around $1500 that's with a lock rite . The stock shafts are pretty strong as it is so I did not opt for them , used breaks , 4.10, and a solid diff cover is what I think I went with . Put it in the jeep by myself in a day .i wheel pretty hard on 35" Baja claws and haven't busted a stock 8.8 shaft yet .
I got that price figuring everything new.. But if I don't need it all new $1500 is awesome... I was just worried about getting used stuff.. I didn't know what kind of shape they would be in...
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:40 PM   #38
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One more dumb question... You say you put a lock rite.... How does that compare to an air locker? And will it affect my on road driving? ...
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:36 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AUSTIN B
One more dumb question... You say you put a lock rite.... How does that compare to an air locker? And will it affect my on road driving? ...
Lock rite is a auto locker which uses torque from the drivetrain to lock it which means as long as your foot is on the gas its locked.
Air locker is a selectable locker which means you flip a switch and as long as the switch is flipped its locked, when its unlocked it acts as an open differential.
An auto locker will effect on road drive ability, you may hear your tires chirp in corners an it will put more stress on your axel but its still drivable on the street you will just have to learn and adapt to it.
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Old 05-10-2012, 08:31 AM   #40
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I know you said money ain't a thing, but the last 8.8 I bought was $73. Seventy three bucks. If you're gonna spend $4500, I'll shoot you my paypal number, I'll pull one at the local yard here, buy a plane ticket for me, and one for it, and come drop it in your rig myself hahaha
I would bet there's a few offroad shops around you that would do the bracket welding. Ya might want to find a local 4x4 shop, and just go talk with them, or start up an email conversation with them. For $1500 I would think they could get you pretty close to bolted in with a selectable and 4.88s to match, maybe $2000 if they're doing all the work, including brake lines & new rotors & such.
If you got the cash, do it, ditch the 35 and never look back.
Artec's truss kit is pretty sweet.

Yes a lockrite will pop & unload through turns on the street, you probably want selectable, or, consider keeping the stock ford LSD.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
X2

I would actually swap to another d30 or hp30 with 3.73s in it. Much cheaper.
3.73 is/was a very rare gear count in Cherokee's,a lot more common in TJ/LJs, that's gonna be a tough one to find.

But you're right man, OP's got deep pockets.
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Old 05-10-2012, 12:41 PM   #41
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Ok after doing lots of research I'm going to keep my d30 up front and maybe throw some upgraded shafts and an ox locker up front but in the rear would I be better with a d44 with chromoly shafts an ox locker and disk breaks or an 8.8 with stock shafts ox locker and disk breaks? ... I decided on the ox because I want it to be Manual ( less to go wrong ) and I don't wanna mess with air compressors... And I also want it as drivable as possible on the road....
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Old 05-10-2012, 12:52 PM   #42
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If you think connecting an air compressor and switch to a locker is too difficult, then you won't like installing the Ox's shifter and its stiff cable either. Not to mention the vast majority of pro competitors run ARBs and darned few run Ox lockers. I think there were 90+ ARBs but only 2-3 Ox lockers in the last King of the Hammers event.
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Old 05-11-2012, 01:34 AM   #43
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Installation isn't the problem...I was mainly wanting the most reliable... I figured a manual ox would have less things to go wrong... Am I wrong? I am just trying to build my jeep as reliable as possible but I don't know much about them that's why I'm on here getting ideas...
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:08 PM   #44
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He used breakes I got were almost new . I've been running them for over a year now and still don't need to change them . ECGS won't send you crap parts their good guys over there.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:14 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AUSTIN B
Installation isn't the problem...I was mainly wanting the most reliable... I figured a manual ox would have less things to go wrong... Am I wrong? I am just trying to build my jeep as reliable as possible but I don't know much about them that's why I'm on here getting ideas...
You would be hard pressed to find a more reliable and reputable locker than ARB.
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Old 05-13-2012, 07:05 AM   #46
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Cool deal ARB it is then... Thanks ... Y'all are a huge help!

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