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Old 07-20-2010, 12:35 PM   #1
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What clutch should I get?

I have done a few searches but haven't found anything with recommended clutches. BTW I have a 2003 TJ 4.0L with the 5 speed NV3550 and just hit over 70k. Clutch size 10.4", 1 1/8" 10-spline input shaft. I know what I need I just want to know what I can trust. I go off-road, I try for once a month but more like once every two months.

My throwout and pilot bearing (are/is going) bad. It has been getting a little harder to get in gear. I haven't really noticed any slipping or loss of power. I hear a high pitched screeching noise when just sitting there just a little more audible over the engine noise that wasn't there since I had it. Then when I depress the clutch an unbearably loud screeching noise is heard. Some times the sound when not pressing the clutch goes away and the sound when the clutch is pressed also goes away. Don't know what that means but I am going to need to remove the trans to replace the bearing so I am just going to do a through job and replace it all, other than the flywheel unless it has a grove in it, though will get it resurfaced.

Anyway back to the question at hand. Should I spring for the CenterForce II Kit or should I just stick with the OEM clutch kits?

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Old 07-20-2010, 12:50 PM   #2
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Go with Luk which is a superb high quality heavy-duty clutch. Luk is also the OE clutch manufacturer.

My first Luk (what the factory installed) had 166,000 miles on it and was functioning perfectly when I replaced it out of caution with another Luk purchased from Dial-A-Clutch - Your LuK Clutch Kit Specialist. Once I got the old clutch out, I saw it still had plenty of life left on it despite my regular abuse of it that often literally left the clutch smoking while rock crawling.

Avoid the Centerforce line of clutches as they were designed for high rpm/high-hp use where they use centrifugal force to lock up harder at high rpms. While heavily advertised and hyped all over the place, I wouldn't install one into my TJ if they gave me one for free. They just aren't the right type of clutch design for how we typically use our Jeeps.

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Old 07-20-2010, 02:37 PM   #3
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Question Clutch opinion?

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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Go with Luk which is a superb high quality heavy-duty clutch. Luk is also the OE clutch manufacturer.

My first Luk (what the factory installed) had 166,000 miles on it and was functioning perfectly when I replaced it out of caution with another Luk purchased from Dial-A-Clutch - Your LuK Clutch Kit Specialist. Once I got the old clutch out, I saw it still had plenty of life left on it despite my regular abuse of it that often literally left the clutch smoking while rock crawling.

Avoid the Centerforce line of clutches as they were designed for high rpm/high-hp use where they use centrifugal force to lock up harder at high rpms. While heavily advertised and hyped all over the place, I wouldn't install one into my TJ if they gave me one for free. They just aren't the right type of clutch design for how we typically use our Jeeps.
Jerry...I see that Luk has two different clutch packages, a standard, and a gold. Any opinion on these? I don't see a difference in the content of the packages. Parts quality??? If anyone else has an opinion, please chime in...it would be appreciated. I'm going to replace my clutch this weekend.
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Old 07-20-2010, 02:43 PM   #4
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Go with the standard Luk kit, not the Gold as I was tempted to go with at the time but decided against. After some research, I learned the Gold kit is really meant more for trucks and when installed into a TJ, it can be noisier without any real benefit to accompany the added noise (which I have no idea what that noise might sound like or be).
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Old 07-20-2010, 02:46 PM   #5
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gold vs regular

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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Go with the standard Luk kit, not the Gold as I was tempted to go with at the time but decided against. After some research, I learned the Gold kit is really meant more for trucks and when installed into a TJ, it can be noisier without any real benefit to accompany the added noise (which I have no idea what that noise might sound like or be).


Thanks for the advice! Ill follow it!
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Old 07-20-2010, 03:53 PM   #6
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I was hoping one of the highly experienced forum users would chime in and steer me right. I new Luk was the OEM manufacturer but didn't know that the CenterForce was much different than what I needed. Thanks Jerry!

I will be picking up a transmission jack later in the week to change it out this weekend. There is one on sale at HF and a friend is going to buy it off me when I am done. With any luck I will remember to take some pictures.
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Old 07-20-2010, 03:56 PM   #7
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I just re-clutched my TJ a couple of weeks ago....Luk!
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Old 07-20-2010, 04:35 PM   #8
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X2...I put a LUK in mine last year.
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Old 07-20-2010, 04:54 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Zybeon View Post
I knew Luk was the OEM manufacturer but didn't know that the CenterForce was much different than what I needed.
Not to mention that Centerforce's less desirable type of clutch costs way more than the Luk's does. A win-win!
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Old 07-20-2010, 05:23 PM   #10
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Well..... on my way home the bearing completely ceased up freezing the clutch engaged. Luckily I just turned down my street and made it into my driveway. Though sadly, there is no parking on the side of the street and my driveway has a steep incline. I only made it up halfway chugging in 3rd gear perfectly in the center. Now I am blocking 2 of the other cars in the driveway. Though thankfully one is my other car so I can get to work tomorrow.
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Old 07-20-2010, 05:53 PM   #11
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what would you guys use if you wanted to toe a 2000 lb boat? or shouldnt i do that?
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Old 07-20-2010, 06:07 PM   #12
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what would you guys use if you wanted to tow a 2000 lb boat? or shouldnt i do that?
The standard OE or Luk clutch is fine for that.
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Old 07-20-2010, 06:09 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zybeon View Post
Well..... on my way home the bearing completely ceased up freezing the clutch engaged. Luckily I just turned down my street and made it into my driveway. Though sadly, there is no parking on the side of the street and my driveway has a steep incline. I only made it up halfway chugging in 3rd gear perfectly in the center. Now I am blocking 2 of the other cars in the driveway. Though thankfully one is my other car so I can get to work tomorrow.
Try rolling back down the driveway and then driving it back up in 4-Lo to where you want it to be.
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:34 AM   #14
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Try rolling back down the driveway and then driving it back up in 4-Lo to where you want it to be.
Well I can't start the heep on a flat surface as the clutch is stuck in gear. Though I thought about doing that. Where I start in reverse to back out of the driveway. The house across the street also has an inclined driveway. Sooo.. I plan to push start it then drive up their driveway. Turn it off, put it in first, push start it, then drive up my driveway. Though if I fail to start it in reverse I am going to be stuck in the middle of the street. Going to get a guy in my group to come out to push me up if something happens.
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Old 07-21-2010, 04:31 PM   #15
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Do you have your fuse in the clutch bypass location? It'll enable you to start it up while the clutch is engaged on a hill or not, it is actually preferred to crawl very steep and technical obstacles if you stall. I forget which fuse it is but if you look in your Jeep manual it will say "Transmission something or other" Throw a 20A fuse in it and start her up in 4lo!
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Old 07-24-2010, 04:31 PM   #16
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I was able to get it up there the other day. I just started in neutral, pushed it down the street, then slipped it into first and away I went.

I started on the removal yesterday. Got almost every thing of yesterday till night came. The next day I ran into reverse torx(star) bolts at the top of the bellhousing. Had to go out and get a E-12 socket, still they took a good while to take out.

And now I am stuck at separating the transmission from the engine. The instructions say to "use a brake spoon, and pry apart the engine and bell housing" though it doesn't say or show where to put anything to pry it apart. I have been at it for more than two hours. I have been smashing up my inspection plate trying to pry them apart. Anyone have a hint or trick? Or better yet a picture or video?
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Old 07-24-2010, 04:37 PM   #17
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A pry bar works fine to seperate them.

Question....did you remove the tricky hidden reverse torx bolt at the top of the transmission?
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Old 07-24-2010, 04:42 PM   #18
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A pry bar works fine to seperate them.

Question....did you remove the tricky hidden reverse torx bolt at the top of the transmission?

Where to put this pry bar without denting up the inspection cover? And yes I removed the torx bolts. Though do you mean there is more that two?
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Old 07-24-2010, 04:46 PM   #19
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Just the two pain in the butt bolts....As for removal...do you have the trans on a trans jack or ???

I've only had to pull back on the jack until the trans cleared the lower it. If the trans is supported good. grab the tail shaft and wiggle it back and forth to break it loose.
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Old 07-24-2010, 05:15 PM   #20
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Trust me I have tried that.
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Old 07-24-2010, 07:27 PM   #21
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Well it just took me resting for awhile. It took me another 10 min after I went out there. My throwout bearing came out in pieces, and my pressure plate was missing some teeth. Though now I can't get my flywheel off. It just keeps turning, how do I stop the engine from turning over. I already tried putting a wrench on the bolt before the fan but that doesn't do anything. I guess it is connected to the fan clutch and doesn't spin with the engine consistently.
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Old 07-24-2010, 07:52 PM   #22
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Can you tell which one is the new one?
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Old 07-24-2010, 08:16 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zybeon View Post
Well it just took me resting for awhile. It took me another 10 min after I went out there. My throwout bearing came out in pieces, and my pressure plate was missing some teeth. Though now I can't get my flywheel off. It just keeps turning, how do I stop the engine from turning over. I already tried putting a wrench on the bolt before the fan but that doesn't do anything. I guess it is connected to the fan clutch and doesn't spin with the engine consistently.
Do you have a flat bar? If so put one of the bolts back into the block and set the flatbar behind the bolt and set it into the teeth of the flywheel. Then take your flywheel bolts out.
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Old 07-24-2010, 08:23 PM   #24
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Also...why are you removing the flywheel? Are you installing a new one? Do NOT have a TJ flywheel turned. They are unique in that they are Domed and not flat. If the flywheel is simply glazed just use some emery cloth and lightly sand over it. If there are gouges in the flywheel , replace it.

You don't have to pull the flywheel to remove/ install the pilot bearing.
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Old 07-24-2010, 08:25 PM   #25
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Also, I believe the owners manual says not to resurface the flywheel because it has a unique dome shape that will be lost... double-check with the other gurus on here before taking it as truth, but I'm about 80% sure...

Edit: ARGH...Distorted beat me to it. LOL
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Old 07-24-2010, 09:22 PM   #26
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Not getting it resurfaced, I heard that too(the cone thing). Also the flywheel is actually doing great. Maybe give it a rub with a 150 grit emery cloth.

I am replacing the pilot bearing. Don't I need to remove it to get to it?
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Old 07-24-2010, 09:38 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zybeon View Post
I am replacing the pilot bearing. Don't I need to remove it to get to it?
Nope. Just use a puller. You can rent one/barrow one from napa , orielys or auto zone.

Will be a slide hammer and a bearing puller like this....



No need to remove the flywheel to get to it.
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Old 07-26-2010, 02:43 PM   #28
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I removed the pilot bearing using paper a socket and a hammer. Though it took a long while and was uncomfortable swinging a hammer in a confined space on my back. Got a bruise on my hand too...



Alright.. well I got rained out yesterday and couldn't finish. So I am working on it now, having to take another half day off from work. I am doing something wrong as I can't put my clutch slave cylinder back in. Here are a few pics. Does the piston on my slave look like it is sticking out to far?



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Old 07-26-2010, 02:59 PM   #29
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It's been several years since I had to mess with the slave cylnder but that (its length) looks ok to me from my hazy memories. Are you saying it's too long so it won't bolt into place even if you kinda push on it? Does the bracket the slave cylinder's push rod pushes on move freely as it should?
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:16 PM   #30
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Ok, well as I wrote that and looked at the pictures again. I realized my fear that my clutch fork was put in incorrectly. The way the retaining springs on the TOB are didn't allow the fork to pivot the wrong way. In just a few minutes I separated the tranny that had all the bolts in it.... . I flipped the fork around and it moves alot more. Rolled the tranny forward to allow me to stick on the slave and it went on just fine.

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