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Old 09-03-2013, 10:46 AM   #19711
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Anyone a guru when it comes to sound systems here? I've got a few questions but rather not start a thread. Let me know, thanks guys.

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Old 09-03-2013, 11:02 AM   #19712
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I'm pretty sufficent in car audio. What you got?

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Old 09-03-2013, 11:15 AM   #19713
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I'm pretty sufficent in car audio. What you got?
Cool, upgrading my whole system to a ridiculous level(or so it seems) I'm doing a pioneer avh-x7500bt HU with 5.25" speakers in the dash, sound bar is getting 6.5" speakers, a pioneer digital series amp 2400w peak power, and 2-12"subs 1400w peak power each and building it's custom box. Question 1.will the amp be able to supply power for the subs 2. Will the electrical in the jeep support this 3.will I need to do a double battery or will upgrading my alternator do? I have the stock 117amp alternator.
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:40 AM   #19714
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Cool, upgrading my whole system to a ridiculous level(or so it seems) I'm doing a pioneer avh-x7500bt HU with 5.25" speakers in the dash, sound bar is getting 6.5" speakers, a pioneer digital series amp 2400w peak power, and 2-12"subs 1400w peak power each and building it's custom box. Question 1.will the amp be able to supply power for the subs 2. Will the electrical in the jeep support this 3.will I need to do a double battery or will upgrading my alternator do? I have the stock 117amp alternator.
What is the rms of the amp and at what impedance? What is the rms of the subs and what impedance/ voice coil configuration are they?? The stock electrical should be sufficient..
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:00 PM   #19715
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Hehe. Mine's on with blue tape hahaha. The dude at the auto parts store said...zip ties might work better ma'am. LoL
Nice. I used a couple self-tapping screws, screwed it straight to the bumper.
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:04 PM   #19716
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What is the rms of the amp and at what impedance? What is the rms of the subs and what impedance/ voice coil configuration are they?? The stock electrical should be sufficient..
The amp is 500w@4ohms, 800w@2ohms, 1200w@1ohm and the subs are 400w rms dual voice coil, 4ohm per coil
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:07 PM   #19717
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The amp is 500w@4ohms, 800w@2ohms, 1200w@1ohm and the subs are 400w rms dual voice coil, 4ohm per coil
Ok.. I'm assuming it's a monoblock amp (1 channel)? You'll be able to wire those subs into a 4ohm or 1 ohm load, which means you'll either give them 250 watts each or 600 watts each.. I'd wire it in 1 ohm (parallel/parallel) and set the gain with a dmm to get as close to 800 watts total.. you could go higher, but it's probably not recommended
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:11 PM   #19718
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Ok.. I'm assuming it's a monoblock amp (1 channel)? You'll be able to wire those subs into a 4ohm or 1 ohm load, which means you'll either give them 250 watts each or 600 watts each.. I'd wire it in 1 ohm (parallel/parallel) and set the gain with a dmm to get as close to 800 watts total.. you could go higher, but it's probably not recommended
Yes, forgot its a mono amp. Thanks for the help.
If I install a capacitor, will that help? I'm wondering if the alternator and battery might be a problem and need an upgrade along.
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:16 PM   #19719
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Yes, forgot its a mono amp. Thanks for the help.
If I install a capacitor, will that help? I'm wondering if the alternator and battery might be a problem and need an upgrade along.
You can put it in, I've never been a cap user. I have a 600 watt and 200 watt amp and have no issues. Your monoblock should be just fine without one. Use at least a 4 awg wire. If you notice any dimming or voltage dropping then do the big 3 upgrade.
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:18 PM   #19720
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You can put it in, I've never been a cap user. I have a 600 watt and 200 watt amp and have no issues. Your monoblock should be just fine without one. Use at least a 4 awg wire. If you notice any dimming or voltage dropping then do the big 3 upgrade.
One last question(I hope, it's my first audio system upgrade ever) will the amp be able to support the subs and the 4 speakers I'm adding? Everything is getting upgraded, I'm done with my tape deck
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:26 PM   #19721
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Not to but for....FEDEX just dropped off my Moog Super Trail Boss Steering Damper. Now if it will just stop raining!
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:05 PM   #19722
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One last question(I hope, it's my first audio system upgrade ever) will the amp be able to support the subs and the 4 speakers I'm adding? Everything is getting upgraded, I'm done with my tape deck
No, a mono os only good for subs.. you need an additional 2 or 4 channel amp for the speakers..

Or you could just run the speakers off the head unit..
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:11 PM   #19723
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No, a mono os only good for subs.. you need an additional 2 or 4 channel amp for the speakers..
Ok that's what I was thinking, the speakers are 70w rms/pair for dash and 120w rms/set for the sound bar, a 4 channel 60Wx4@4ohm or 85Wx4@2ohmwould do, correct?

The head unit is rated at 22Wx4, I feel it wouldn't allow for optimal sound from the speakers
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:23 PM   #19724
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Ok that's what I was thinking, the speakers are 70w rms/pair for dash and 120w rms/set for the sound bar, a 4 channel 60Wx4@4ohm or 85Wx4@2ohmwould do, correct?

The head unit is rated at 22Wx4, I feel it wouldn't allow for optimal sound from the speakers
An amp will definitely make it sound better.. if the speakers are 4 ohm then a 60x4@4ohm would work great.
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:24 PM   #19725
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An amp will definitely make it sound better.. if the speakers are 4 ohm then a 60x4@4ohm would work great.
Ok great, it's an extra $125 for the extra amp, but worth it. Thanks for the help man, really appreciate it!
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:25 PM   #19726
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Ok great, it's an extra $125 for the extra amp, but worth it. Thanks for the help man, really appreciate it!
No problem.. feel free to pm me if you have more questions
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:28 PM   #19727
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No problem.. feel free to pm me if you have more questions
Got one more, does it matter if the original amp is not bridgeable? Or do the amps have to be bridged to work all together?
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:44 PM   #19728
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Got one more, does it matter if the original amp is not bridgeable? Or do the amps have to be bridged to work all together?
No issue as you won't be bridging anything but the subs and that's on a monoblock
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:46 PM   #19729
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No issue as you won't be bridging anything but the subs and that's on a monoblock
Ok awesome! Thanks again, now I'm ready to order
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:19 PM   #19730
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Got a shift bezel do I don't have the shift boot just sitting there and it will finally be closed off
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:07 PM   #19731
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Got a shift bezel do I don't have the shift boot just sitting there and it will finally be closed off
Bet there is quite a bit of heat that comes thru there
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:19 PM   #19732
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What kinda lift?

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Looks good! Got a little mud on mine with my jeep club

Look's real good.... what kinda lift are you running? 31 mud tires?
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Old 09-03-2013, 05:44 PM   #19733
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Look's real good.... what kinda lift are you running? 31 mud tires?
Those look like 35" nitto mud grapplers. May be 37s. Hard to say.
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:43 PM   #19734
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was delivering a certified today and went to back out of the driveway and then when i went to put it in drive it did nothing i couldnt get it to go into gear at all i kept shifting thru the gears and the only one that would engage was reverse i even tried giving it gas hoping it would throw it into gear...nothing
finally it went into gear after a minute or so, any idea what would cause this? ive only had it for just over a month and its always taken a second to go into gear once i put it into drive after the engine has been running for a few hours

06 tj 4.0 i6 auto
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:29 PM   #19735
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was delivering a certified today and went to back out of the driveway and then when i went to put it in drive it did nothing i couldnt get it to go into gear at all i kept shifting thru the gears and the only one that would engage was reverse i even tried giving it gas hoping it would throw it into gear...nothing
finally it went into gear after a minute or so, any idea what would cause this? ive only had it for just over a month and its always taken a second to go into gear once i put it into drive after the engine has been running for a few hours

06 tj 4.0 i6 auto
I'm not an 'auto' guy, but it sounds like a torque converter problem. I would start with a fluid/filter change and flush. I'm sure there are plenty of auto guys/gals here that will give you a good starting point though.

Best of luck!!!
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Old 09-03-2013, 08:12 PM   #19736
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Bet there is quite a bit of heat that comes thru there
Yea there is gets annoying especially on a nice day and windows down cool breeze then you have a furness blowing at your thighs
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:29 PM   #19737
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Look's real good.... what kinda lift are you running? 31 mud tires?
Thanks! 3.5" rubicon express superflex lift with rancho rs9000 shocks and 15x10 Mickey Thompson sidebiters and 33x13.5x15 mud grapplers
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:33 PM   #19738
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Well the other night my wife backed my TJ into a tee and needless to say the stock bumper didnt hold up like I hoped. So I thought to myself, on my week off let's build a bad a$$ new one. So that's what I did to my TJ today.
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:59 PM   #19739
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Looks awesome. Great job
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Old 09-03-2013, 11:09 PM   #19740
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Today I installed a fuse on the wiring for my winch.

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