Gonna have to UP that budget if you're wanting to play in the rocks.....especially if you're wanting to fit 35s. Your 4 cyl. Jeep will need to be regeared at the very least (figure a grand or so), but you might want to consider getting new axles if you want to rockcrawl with it and 35s. Your D35 in the rear is a weak link with 35s. If you wanted to go with 33s, you could get by with a 2" budget boost with a 1" body lift. That'll clear 33's....I know, I ran that setup for awhile. Your wheel travel will have to be limited, otherwise those 33s will chew up your flares, though. I paid just under $1000 for 5 Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Radial tires from tirepackage.com.....and that didn't count what I paid for the Eagle Alloys on it as well. You can get by with cheaper wheels, though. Alot of guys like the look of the Cragar Soft 8s.....they're black and easy to touch up when they get scratched. They look really good on rockcrawlers. Someone will chime in and tell you how much you can expect to pay for those Soft 8s.
A good lift is going to cost you anywhere from $450 without shocks to the moon and everywhere in between.....research it well and ask alot of questions. Everyone on this forum is really good about helping others who need it.
Good luck and keep us informed on what you've decided to do.
And welcome to the forum!!!!!
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As someone who has experienced this first hand and lately, be very careful what you are getting into. It costs many dollars to get a Jeep rock ready and once you go with a large enough lift, you must spend cash on extras like gearing, sye, and exhaust just to get it driving again. I would recommend starting small. For instance, do a budget boost and run your factory tires for a while so you can save for your tires.
Please excuse my stupid question. How does the body lift differ from the suspension. I though they both acheive the same thing. You either get the lift by adding spacers or by upping your suspension
a body lift lifts the body from the frame. It does not touch the suspension at all.
A suspension lift increases the spring size so the entire jeep gets lifted from the ground which allows for more flex.
Now something people get confused. If you add 4-5" of lift you should be able to run bigger tires without rubbing while flexing. This is wrong and your bigger tires will rub into the fenders. To prevent rubbing you will have to increase the bump stops so you hit the bump stop and limit your up travel. Without the bump stops your bigger tire will go into the flare no matter if you have 5" of lift or 2" of lift.
This is where i recommend body lifts. Instead of running big bump stops that decrease suspension travel, you can run a body lift because it simply moves the body up and out of the way so now the tire has more space to move up. You can also cut off the fenders and achieve the same results but who would do that besides the hard core crawlers that dont use their rigs for DDs.
For body lifts, i would not recommend going over 2", matter of fact i would ONLY recommend 2" of body lift. The 1" kits in my opinion are incomplete while the 3" kits are too much leverage on the body bolts.
Cavediverjc recommended that I use a 2'' budget boost and a 1'' body lift
What is the difference between body lift/ budget boost/ spacer?
body lift spaces the body from the frame. The spacer (Budged Boost) lift simply puts a rubber like spacer on top of the coil so that alters the suspension. BB ^ is like a coil lift but does not replace the coils with new longer ones, it simply extends the stock ones with pucks on top of them.
to run 35" tires you WILL need more than 3" of lift though unless you will NOT take it on dirt. I have 35" tires and i'm running 6" of lift.