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Old 07-09-2012, 10:43 AM   #1
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What oil do use in your high mileage 4.0?

I saw where someone posted something about Moble1 synthetic causing lifter issues.... Well having bad lifter noise and maybe even one trying to collapse I was intrigued and have do e some looking around. With the exception of a few times I've always used 10w-40 Mobile 1 synthetic and I have 184,000 miles and the last 20k or so the lifters have gone to shit.
After looking and reading around it seems the 4.0 likes heavier oil and zinc. A few days ago I changed oil and used Quaker State Defy. Unfortunately thinner than I wanted 0w-20, hey it was on sale. The QS Defy is supposed to have high zinc. Noticeable difference, still a little noise until warmed up but far better. Next oil change I'm trying Rotella T5.
Perhaps the Mobile 1 is just to "clean" for the primitive 4.0.

So any thoughts, it's seems the forum at Bob is the oil guy everyone is getting good results with Rotella

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Old 07-09-2012, 11:06 AM   #2
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Castrol GTX last time. I change it every 3k on the spot so I haven't noticed a difference with different oils. I have 142k on my 4.0

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Old 07-09-2012, 11:09 AM   #3
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I've got around 95K on mine, it had 87K when I bought it. I've used Amsoil since the first change in March/April. I avg about 7500 between changes, with regular checks of the oil level and appearance.
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:26 AM   #4
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230,000 miles and going strong

Unfortunatly, when you change types of oil like you change clothes, it's difficult to say what has caused your wear, providing your engine problems are wear related.

My Jeep I bought used with 80,000 I used streight Quaker 30 wt year around, in both hot and cold weather and change at 3000 mile intervals.

Since the Government reduced the ZDDP or zink in street motor oils, for the last 125,000 miles I use the same oil that I use in my Dodge diesel Rotella 15/40 and I have been changing at 5000 mile intervals, although I will be going back to 3000 starting at my next change.

No lifter noise, good oil pressure when I get off the highway at a stop light, no smole on acceleration. I see this motor going to atleast 300,000.
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:33 AM   #5
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quaker state does't even offer Defy in 0w-20
so im not sure what oil you used but using a Xw-20 oil in your jeep is the exact last thing you want to do for high mileage.

next time use quaker state defy in 5w/10w-30
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:42 AM   #6
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Valvoline 10w30 conventional. If I couldn't find that, I'd happily run Castrol, Havoline, Shell, Mobil, etc. since modern multi-weight conventional motor oils are superb.

For those who insist today's reduced levels of zinc are going to cause the end of the world and use diesel motor oils that are still rich in zinc, I hope you don’t mind replacing catalytic converters since they don't tolerate zinc.
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:51 AM   #7
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I run Rottela T 15w40 in mine. Seems to really like it. Its easier for me to run it since I have a diesel so I just buy a 5 gal bucket.
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:55 AM   #8
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15w-40, no matter what type of oil it is, is definitely not a good choice for the 4.0l engine.
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:57 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
15w-40, no matter what type of oil it is, is definitely not a good choice for the 4.0l engine.
Why is that?
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:58 AM   #10
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Royal Purple with a K&N Oil Filter, since ive had the jeep. I dont have any Bottem end noise "YET" knock on wood!
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:00 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
15w-40, no matter what type of oil it is, is definitely not a good choice for the 4.0l engine.
I thought the I6 likes 5W-30!
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:01 PM   #12
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Valvoline VR-1 10w30 dino oil and MOPAR oil filter .
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:05 PM   #13
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If I remember correctly the Rotella also has a higher detergent level than the mobil 1 does due to being a diesel oil. If you have a slight varnish buildup inside the lifter the detergent will wash away the varnish and allow the valve in the lifter to free up and work right. I don't know if the jeep uses edge orifice or piddle valves in the lifters but either way cleaner is better. And the Zinc level is for the lifter crown/cam lobe interface. One of the highest unit loaded parts in the entire engine. And since it only receives splash oiling the lubricity of the zinc helps a lot. And yes the zinc will eventually coat the cat and need replacement. Sooner than later if you use some oil between changes.
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:21 PM   #14
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For a stock Jeep engine, today's oils have enough zinc. I'd only want/need additional zinc if I had a high performance engine with high amounts of cam lobe pressure from high spring rate valve springs, high lift cams, etc..

If today's reduced zinc motor oils did not have sufficient levels of zinc for our stock Jeep engines, the forums would be alive with constant screams talking about premature engine failures, worn/scored cam lobes, etc.. As it is, I don't recall even a single instance of that on any of the Jeep forums I frequent. The only real issue is with 2005/2006 oil pump drives but that isn't an oil related problem since only 2005/2006 models have the issue.
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
For a stock Jeep engine, today's oils have enough zinc. I'd only want/need additional zinc if I had a high performance engine with high amounts of cam lobe pressure from high spring rate valve springs, high lift cams, etc..

If today's reduced zinc motor oils did not have sufficient levels of zinc for our stock Jeep engines, the forums would be alive with constant screams talking about premature engine failures, worn/scored cam lobes, etc.. As it is, I don't recall even a single instance of that on any of the Jeep forums I frequent. The only real issue is with 2005/2006 oil pump drives but that isn't an oil related problem since only 2005/2006 models have the issue.
What he said.
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Old 07-09-2012, 03:21 PM   #16
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I avg about 7500 between changes.
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Old 07-09-2012, 03:44 PM   #17
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My '03 Chevy Silverado would run 10K to 11k between oil changes on the same brand/weight oil, following the oil life monitor per the owner's manual. Even after moving back to the city, with all city driving it was still between 7k and 8k, consistantly.

Why would I have a problem doing that now after putting over 230k on the Chevy? It was running superbly, avg about 19 combined mpg when I traded it on the TJ.
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Old 07-09-2012, 03:51 PM   #18
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Done some more reading,
Http://www.allpar.com/old/oils.php

Http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Item..._got_zinc.aspx

Http://joegibbsdriven.com/trainingce...oiloldcar.html

Hmmm, imagine that the EPA and API screwing us. Sounds much like when leaded gasoline was phased out.
Granted the 4.0 isn't a performance engine but it does have flat tappets. Nor did I intend to have a zinc argument.
I have 185,000 miles and with Mobile 1 synthetic my lifters sound like hell. One or two occasionally stick and when the are in the act of being stuck a change in exhaust tone can be heard and a noticeable loss in power. It's gotten to the point I'm ready to get dramatic about it like pulling the head, trying ATF, hell even kerosene. Then randomly I saw a post where someone was complaining about Mobile 1 causing lifter issues. So I tried something different, granted not a full complete fix but a noticeable difference. If I can find that "happy" oil with the right amount of zinc and other additives then the condition may fix itself, I hope.

Jerry, Why the negative opinion on 15-40 Rotella?

Xxxxx, your correct it wasn't 0-20, I looked at the jugs. A five quart container of 5-20 and 1 quart of 10w-30.
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Old 07-09-2012, 04:08 PM   #19
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The zinc is pretty much an additive for the face of the lifter. And yeah they did put the screws to us as far as the additives go. You sound like your having either a piece of debris in the valve or it is getting to much clearance in the valve body of the lifter. Sometimes a change of oil formula and viscosity will allow the lifter to work better. Light weight synthetic oils 5w or 0w have very low pour points where dino oil in a 10w something or a straight 30 will allow older engines to settle down and usually will show an increase in oil pressure.
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Old 07-09-2012, 04:11 PM   #20
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If 15/40 Rotella were bad for vehicles with cats, you'd see forums with lots of discussions about catalytic converters!

My lifters are sounding great.
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Old 07-09-2012, 04:13 PM   #21
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If you want zinc you can still get it.
Engine Break-In Oil Additive - TB Zinc Plus : Lucas Oil
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Old 07-09-2012, 04:16 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crallscars View Post
If 15/40 Rotella were bad for vehicles with cats, you'd see forums with lots of discussions about catalytic converters!

My lifters are sounding great.
Your only going to see a zinc coating on cats if the engine uses some oil and the factories had to go to 100,000 mile warranties on cats. That is why. They were worried about the end game on higher milage engines.
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Old 07-09-2012, 05:14 PM   #23
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Like Jerry, I use straight Valvoline 10W-30,and have done so with every Jeep I have owned.
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Old 07-09-2012, 05:59 PM   #24
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I would of used something thicker but the 5-20 was on sale. I think I'll try T5 Rotella next change, I'm already using a bigger filter to get more oil on board
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Old 07-09-2012, 06:07 PM   #25
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I havnt had any issues in running the 15w40 but im in south Ga so I dont have to worry bout cold.
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Old 07-09-2012, 06:48 PM   #26
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The problem with 15W-40 is the engine was not designed for that high of a viscosity. The 15 is slower to get pumped all the way through the engine during the first start of the day, a longer dry start if you will, and the 40 is just harder to pump through the engine the rest of the time. The engineers specified 5W-30 and 10W-30 for a reason, they aren't making this stuff up. Your owners manual will confirm this.
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Old 07-09-2012, 08:13 PM   #27
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Zinc was also part of the reason I switched from Mobil1 to the Valvoline VR-1 . I saw the makings of a zinc Pissing match developing earlier and didn't care to get involved when just trying to help someone , that BS is happening way to often anymore. You can search the net a little and decide for yourself if its right for your rig. I found out about it as mentioned earlier at the OPDA thread on JF and then searched the web for more info and it seems fine to me of a couple reasons.
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Old 07-09-2012, 08:38 PM   #28
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The VR1 is another that was getting high remarks, perhaps I should look at it a bit closer
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Old 07-09-2012, 08:42 PM   #29
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Quaker State 10w30 and an OEM filter every 3,000 miles no exceptions. Before I was laid off I did an oil change every 6 weeks. My 4cyl sounds and runs like day one out of the dealer. My YJ was like new when I gave it to my nephew.
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Old 07-10-2012, 07:12 AM   #30
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When I had sticky lifters in my 225 V6 '71 CJ5, I found that replacing one quart of oil with Marvel Mystery Oil at each oil change cured the problem.

Recently, in this forum or one of the other Jeep forums, I read that a guy with 4.0L complaints similar to yours also ran a quart of MMO as part of each oil change, and it reduced or eliminated his sticky lifter problem.

Many will tell you it is snake oil and doesn't work/won't help/might damage your engine.

It worked for me in my tired old '71 engine. It apparently works for a guy with a 4.0L.
I suggest giving it a try in combination with conventional 10W-30 before moving on to other more radical steps. It isn't going to hurt anything, and just might help.
Good luck,

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