what size lift do you have to fit 35s? - Page 2 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:12 PM   #31
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I'm just curios why jj arnt used in trophy trucks or in desert racing vehicles.i see them more in rock crawling. Even king of hammers i see heims and uni balls. I just got into wheeling recently so its a new world for me...

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Old 11-11-2012, 03:14 PM   #32
Knows a couple things...

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The winner of this year's King of the Hammer's Everyman Challenge was running Johnnie Joints. Most heim joints wear too quickly to be used on a vehicle that also sees street use... not to mention steel heim joints transmit far more vibration & shock into the vehicle than joints with polyurethane races or rubber bushings.

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Old 11-11-2012, 03:47 PM   #33
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Good info thanks...
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:38 PM   #34
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I run the Rock Krawler 5.5 long arm kit, with 1 inch body lift and run 35 inch tires. Flat fenders up front and a little cut out, out back.

My roof bow measures right at 7ft, i cannot fit in parking garages 7ft or under.
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:11 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
x2. Who cares about lift height...talk in terms of shock travel and up/down ratios and belly/frame/bracket/axle clearances.

Those that use LCG as a buzz word don't seem to get that.
Imped posted some good numbers in the Up travel, frame height, and belly pan height. What are your numbers Unlimited?
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:40 PM   #36
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97Flexy...I'm considering putting 35s on mime and I just wanted to confirm that you're running 35s on yours with a "2inch [suspension] with 1.25 body" lift?
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:15 PM   #37
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What gears are you guys running with these 35s?
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:24 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by 97flexy View Post
Imped posted some good numbers in the Up travel, frame height, and belly pan height. What are your numbers Unlimited?
Will be 5" up/6" down in front and 5" up/5" down rear when I finish whats spread across my workbench. Belly is 15", frame is 17.25". OME 934/949 springs, 1.25" BL. On 33s.

Respectable, functional and all I need for now.
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:27 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82nd Scout
97Flexy...I'm considering putting 35s on mime and I just wanted to confirm that you're running 35s on yours with a "2inch [suspension] with 1.25 body" lift?
Hey I think you meant me, if not disregard. But I'm running that combo and it works very well for me! I even ran it without the 2 inch for a while, but it rubbed a lot at flex
Also I have the original 3.73 for now. It's not terrible and I get 16mpg (Drivin like an old man!!) 5th gear is cruise/down hill only though!! Haha!
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:51 AM   #40
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Jerry, not to disagree, because I do not, and I recognize a strictly offroad beast is a completely different animal, but hear me out. If you can run a low center of gravity with very large tires, say, 40s, you would gain around 5 inches of lift from just the tires that would lift the belly height as well, along with the heavy tires down low which would benefit your COG. That would be just as much clearance as a jeep lifted 3-4 inches with 33s, without factoring in the low lift that would probably be run with that rig.

Now this isn't really possible for someone in a state with tire coverage and tire size laws like me in PA, but if I were to run 37s (largest PA legal) with a lower lift, but make them work using some body cutting highlining etc, and set the shocks to have a little bit more droop along with an outboard, I could achieve a large amount of travel along with lots of clearance (thanks to the tire height) will running a moderately tall lift (3-4 inches) and have a full tummy tuck. I feel like that would be the best of both worlds. It's really hard to make up the benefits of a quality mid-height lift with only tire size, but I think there is a middle ground to be held. But as you mentioned, 4 inches or so is by no means too much lift, as long as you realize that that number doesn't mean much more than longer springs and shocks and a every so slightly higher COG. Now if you are like Imped of 90% of the rest of the guys who are modifying, weight changes, larger axle tube diameters, and all sorta of other things come into play. So I think your assessment that lift isn't a good indicator of performance, and that COG isn't necessarily either, is pretty accurate. I just wanted to kind of expand upon what you said.
Agreed and once you start tucking the belly pan, or swapping axles, its not about lift height at all. If you want to get really special and throw portal axles in the mix it gets even better.
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:00 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by InvertChaos View Post
Agreed and once you start tucking the belly pan, or swapping axles, its not about lift height at all. If you want to get really special and throw portal axles in the mix it gets even better.

Haha uh oh now you are getting high tech

I would much prefer lift at both the axles and belly over lift at just the belly, or just the suspension even. You can get more travel without lifting. A stable rig can't be under appreciated either. You can have all the travel in the world but if the suspension wants to unload, or wrap, or won't squat right then you are in trouble.
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:10 PM   #42
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or do it like the sema jeep! 42's with portals and a hemi (its a JK)


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Old 11-14-2012, 01:16 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
You can have all the travel in the world but if the suspension wants to unload, or wrap, or won't squat right then you are in trouble.
I don't think this could be repeated enough times. You have no idea how few people understand this.

All people seem to care about are the words "lift" and "flex." Those two words can't even begin to define a good suspension.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:30 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imped

i don't think this could be repeated enough times. You have no idea how few people understand this.

All people seem to care about are the words "lift" and "flex." those two words can't even begin to define a good suspension.
x2
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:54 PM   #45
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4.5" RE short arm and 4.56 gears. I have a 5 speed and think it works well for mixed driving.
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:30 AM   #46
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Honestly....lockers and a short arm kit will get you ALMOST anywhere...a buddy with a strap or winch never hurts.
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:46 AM   #47
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Honestly....lockers and a short arm kit will get you ALMOST anywhere...a buddy with a strap or winch never hurts.
That's what I thought until I saw some new trails...
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:50 AM   #48
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Thats why I said almost...
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:13 PM   #49
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Thats why I said almost...
I know. But what happens when you want to wheel the other place? Spend a little more money and a lot more time, and you will end up with a rig that performs much better with similar specs, at least to the untrained eye. Of course I agree it's easy to just get the basics and get on the trail. Cheaper and more fun. But when you get serious you need to do it right. I would say running 35s starts to qualify as serious.
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:55 PM   #50
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Everyone has got to start somewhere..
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Old 11-15-2012, 05:36 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by 82nd Scout View Post
97Flexy...I'm considering putting 35s on mime and I just wanted to confirm that you're running 35s on yours with a "2inch [suspension] with 1.25 body" lift?
My 2" lift is unsprung lift since I swapped in bigger full size axles, so I'm not the one to ask if that lift combo will work on 35s. My friend has a 4" and he can fit 35s but runs 33s. I also have flat front high-lined fenders, rear cut fenders and boat sides.

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