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Old 11-09-2012, 10:25 AM   #1
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what size lift do you have to fit 35s?

I'd like to know what lift combos people are running to wheel and clear 35s. also if you know the roof height above the windshield that would be great to.

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Old 11-09-2012, 10:38 AM   #2
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Haven't you been around long enough to have a good feel for what it takes to run such a tire?

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Old 11-09-2012, 11:12 AM   #3
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Haven't you been around long enough to have a good feel for what it takes to run such a tire?
I'm just curious as to what other people run, is that a big deal?
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:15 AM   #4
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To me, a 4" suspension lift with a 1" body lift is the optimal combination for 35" tires.
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:42 AM   #5
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Personally i prefer a 6" suspension with no body lift. But it works with 4+1 or 4+1.25....or seen some with 3+1.25 with flat fenders pull it off too. With a sawzall and a plasma cutter...anything is possible
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:50 AM   #6
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I'm running a 4.5" RE Short Arm lift, which is listed as enough for a 33" tire. I get a little rubbing with the 35's, so I'd second Jerry's 1" body lift....

Also, if you're looking in a RE Short Arm lift, it is well worth upgrading to the adjustable lower control arms.
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:03 PM   #7
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I run a 3.5" RE short arm w/o body lift with 1" backspacing over factory and they scrub my front control arms and have pulled in my rear quarter panels around the tire. Also I run 35" mtr kevlars.

IMO even my 3.5" is too tall but I don't mind the scrubbing or cutting of the body.
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:52 PM   #8
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I run a 3.5" RE short arm w/o body lift with 1" backspacing over factory and they scrub my front control arms and have pulled in my rear quarter panels around the tire. Also I run 35" mtr kevlars.

IMO even my 3.5" is too tall but I don't mind the scrubbing or cutting of the body.
Bump stops.
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:57 PM   #9
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2.5" with AEV highline kit, 1" BL for the tummy tuck. 35's on stock wheels with 1" spacers rub the sway bar a little.

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Old 11-09-2012, 12:57 PM   #10
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I have a 2.5" SL, 1" BL and 3.5" FL (fender lift)
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:57 PM   #11
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I'll be doing the 3+1 eventually on the 37s. Are you just comparing for your rig as far as the height difference and stuff? I feel like you can run a 2.5 suspension only and run 35s very well without going full width, but a smaller BL could be added. Highline, TT, custom link and outboard the shocks, and have a very nice rig for reasonably cheap. The most expensive and time consuming process would be setting up the links I would think.
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:02 PM   #12
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If I were going to 35's, I would be highlining and whipping out body trimming tools going as LCG as possbile with a quality 2-3" spring lift.
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:19 PM   #13
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Guys pushing LCG designs often forget that while such designs do give a lower COG, they also don't give as much ground clearance. I have a 4" suspension lift with a 1" BL for my 35" tires and my biggest problem offroad is it still often doesn't have enough ground clearance. My TJ still gets hung up on the trail even with that much suspension height. But even with its 4" suspension and 1" body lift, its COG is still fine as evidenced by how well it does on severely off-camber or ultra-steep steep trails.

Having a low CG is one thing, having enough clearance for offroading is quite another. And it seems the the more experienced offroader the Jeeper is, the less obsessed with having a low COG he is. Not that you want an excessively high COG, not at all... just don't be thinking a low COG will get you over the various offroad trail obstacles. And not having a LCG doesn't necessarily mean you're going to be tipping or rolling over on typical trail obstacles either. The more experienced the offroader is, the more he realizes that. It's those who are newer to offroading who don't yet realize that.
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:23 PM   #14
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4 inch terra flex lift and a sawz all. 1.25 wheel spacers for the moabs and an anti rock did the trick for me. 35 mtrk.
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:30 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
And it seems the the more experience offroader the Jeeper is, the less obsessed with having a low COG he is. Not that you want an excessively high COG, not at all... just don't be thinking a low COG will get you over the various offroad trail obstacles.
Good points here and I agree.

When people ask "how much lift I have", I tell them I don't really know. From the coil bucket positions and orientation to the weight of the rig to the custom frame, nothing is stock. Therefore a 3" coil doesn't = 3" over a stock TJ. I can tell you, however, that my frame height is 20.25", belly height is 20" and up travel is 5.5" front and 5" rear.

Those are valuable metrics. "Lift height" doesn't tell you anything of value, hence why I questioned the OP's reasoning for asking the question in the first place. The dude has swapped a 44/9 under his rig so I'm not sure why other people's springs matter to him since I'm fairly certain he can make his own decisions in that regard. That's all.
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:35 PM   #16
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4 inch suspension, 1 inch body. windshield is about 75 1/2 inches at the top
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:45 PM   #17
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^ Hey Redsand could you post a picture of your jeep from the front not flexed I like those front fenders and would like to see tire coverage and could you tell me what brand they are?
Thx!
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:58 PM   #18
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^ Hey Redsand could you post a picture of your jeep from the front not flexed I like those front fenders and would like to see tire coverage and could you tell me what brand they are?
Thx!
here ya go, there made by mce (modern classic enterprises). ive got the 3 inch but they make them wider
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:44 PM   #19
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Jerry, not to disagree, because I do not, and I recognize a strictly offroad beast is a completely different animal, but hear me out. If you can run a low center of gravity with very large tires, say, 40s, you would gain around 5 inches of lift from just the tires that would lift the belly height as well, along with the heavy tires down low which would benefit your COG. That would be just as much clearance as a jeep lifted 3-4 inches with 33s, without factoring in the low lift that would probably be run with that rig.

Now this isn't really possible for someone in a state with tire coverage and tire size laws like me in PA, but if I were to run 37s (largest PA legal) with a lower lift, but make them work using some body cutting highlining etc, and set the shocks to have a little bit more droop along with an outboard, I could achieve a large amount of travel along with lots of clearance (thanks to the tire height) will running a moderately tall lift (3-4 inches) and have a full tummy tuck. I feel like that would be the best of both worlds. It's really hard to make up the benefits of a quality mid-height lift with only tire size, but I think there is a middle ground to be held. But as you mentioned, 4 inches or so is by no means too much lift, as long as you realize that that number doesn't mean much more than longer springs and shocks and a every so slightly higher COG. Now if you are like Imped of 90% of the rest of the guys who are modifying, weight changes, larger axle tube diameters, and all sorta of other things come into play. So I think your assessment that lift isn't a good indicator of performance, and that COG isn't necessarily either, is pretty accurate. I just wanted to kind of expand upon what you said.
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:30 AM   #20
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My wrangler now has a 4" procomp suspension lift + 2" coil spacers (first pic) it's sits a lot higher than my previous one which had 3.5" suspension lift + 2" coil spacers and trimmed fenders (2nd and 3rd pic)
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:35 AM   #21
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2inch with 1.25 body. (Installing my UCF tummy tuck this weekend!)



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Old 11-11-2012, 09:09 AM   #22
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2inch with 1.25 body. (Installing my UCF tummy tuck this weekend!)



i like your rear fenders who makes those?
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:29 AM   #23
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Good points here and I agree.

When people ask "how much lift I have", I tell them I don't really know. From the coil bucket positions and orientation to the weight of the rig to the custom frame, nothing is stock. Therefore a 3" coil doesn't = 3" over a stock TJ. I can tell you, however, that my frame height is 20.25", belly height is 20" and up travel is 5.5" front and 5" rear.

Those are valuable metrics. "Lift height" doesn't tell you anything of value, hence why I questioned the OP's reasoning for asking the question in the first place. The dude has swapped a 44/9 under his rig so I'm not sure why other people's springs matter to him since I'm fairly certain he can make his own decisions in that regard. That's all.
x2. Who cares about lift height...talk in terms of shock travel and up/down ratios and belly/frame/bracket/axle clearances.

Those that use LCG as a buzz word don't seem to get that.
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:34 AM   #24
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4in superlift with bfg 35x12.50...but im easy on it.
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:12 AM   #25
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i like your rear fenders who makes those?
Hey thanks! They are metalcloaks, just like the rockers and front fenders! I love em!
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:53 AM   #26
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4" pro comp stage 2 lift.35x12.50r15 goodyear silent armors 15x10 black rock wheels.nothing rubs since i trimmed my fenders.
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:59 AM   #27
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Keep an eye on your control arm mounting brackets Dezertrat84. The control arms that are included in ProComp's Stage 2 lift use bushings at both ends which have so little flex that they can eventually tear their mounting brackets off where they are welded to the axles. That's actually a fairly common problem. My first control arms were from Teraflex and they had the same design which caused two of my control arm brackets to be torn away from the rear axle at different times. I used to work for ProComp's parent company and that regularly happened to Stage 2 owners who actually wheeled their rigs hard enough to really/fully flex the suspensions.
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:39 PM   #28
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Wow..good to know..thanks.i wheel the crap out of it.hopfully nothing happends.ill keep looking for cracks.
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:46 PM   #29
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So far the kit has really surprized me.it does really good.so the arms either need jonny joints, or heims, or beefier brakets.
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:50 PM   #30
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Heims would be a bad idea, your idea of better flexing joints like Currie's Johnnie Joints is the best solution.

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