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Old 11-20-2009, 06:32 PM   #1
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What type of oil do you use??

Hey guys what type of oil does everyone use? If I don't off road and I have a 2006 4.0 does anyone have a favorite?
I usually use 10w 30 castrol.

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Old 11-20-2009, 06:37 PM   #2
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Valvoline, though I'd happily use Castrol, Havoline, etc. if Valvoline were to disappear. I used to run 10W-30 but switched to 10W-40 when my engine got up in miles (182K). After a lifetime on non-synthetic mostly Valvoline, my 4.0L engine runs, starts, and consumes zero oil like it did when I bought the TJ brand new.

With today's lubes being so superb, I don't think there's much difference in the various brands any more. Some worry about the reduced zinc in most modern oils possibly affecting our older design engines and that sounds reasonable but I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.

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Old 11-20-2009, 06:45 PM   #3
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Napa full Synthetic. I catch it on sale for around $3 a quart on occasion.
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Old 11-21-2009, 01:10 AM   #4
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I used to run Mobil1 10W30 synthetic but for some reason, my oil pressure read high. I switched back to regular and it reads fine now.
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Old 11-21-2009, 03:08 AM   #5
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Valvoline.
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Old 11-21-2009, 06:19 AM   #6
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I would like to give you this award because you are the 1 millionth person to ask this question. HAHAHAHA
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Old 11-21-2009, 06:36 AM   #7
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i use castrol syntec
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Old 11-21-2009, 09:53 AM   #8
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Ive been using valvoline 10w-30

Whats the difference between the 30 and 40 in the second number? I know the first is the thickness.
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Old 11-21-2009, 10:35 AM   #9
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Ive been using valvoline 10w-30

Whats the difference between the 30 and 40 in the second number? I know the first is the thickness.
Both numbers are thickness (viscosity).

Like for 10W-30. The W on 10W stands for Winter so that means it has a viscosity (thickness) of 10 in cold winter conditions. The 30 is its viscosity when fully warmed up. A thinner viscosity (like 0W, 5W, or 10W) is helpful in cold conditions because oil doesn't flow well when cold so making it thinner helps it to flow throughout the engine faster during startup.

So by my having gone from 10W-30 to 10W-40, that just means my engine oil is a tad heavier when fully warmed up. I changed just out of the theory that an engine with as many miles as mine (182K) probably has a bit of wear that a very slightly heavier viscosity oil can help protect it a bit more.
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Old 11-21-2009, 12:34 PM   #10
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Castrol GTX 10w-30 for my 4.0L with 56K miles.
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Old 11-21-2009, 02:18 PM   #11
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Thanks man! Just wanted to see what other people were using also!
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Old 11-21-2009, 02:20 PM   #12
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Valvoline, though I'd happily use Castrol, Havoline, etc. if Valvoline were to disappear. I used to run 10W-30 but switched to 10W-40 when my engine got up in miles (182K). After a lifetime on non-synthetic mostly Valvoline, my 4.0L engine runs, starts, and consumes zero oil like it did when I bought the TJ brand new.

With today's lubes being so superb, I don't think there's much difference in the various brands any more. Some worry about the reduced zinc in most modern oils possibly affecting our older design engines and that sounds reasonable but I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.
Thanks for the reply! Always good to hear other peoples opinions!
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Old 11-21-2009, 09:23 PM   #13
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Thanks for the info jerry. Makes sense to me now
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Old 11-21-2009, 10:11 PM   #14
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i use castrol gtx 10w-40. i run the heck out of my 4.0 and it still runs strong.
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Old 11-22-2009, 02:08 PM   #15
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As long as it meets API and SAE and its 10-W30 and its Natural I use it. doesn't matter who makes it if it meets those
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Old 05-25-2010, 08:52 AM   #16
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My Cherokee 4.0 has almost 200,000 trouble free miles. Most of them pulling an enclosed trailer. Amsoil has worked awsome for me.
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Old 05-25-2010, 09:00 AM   #17
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I would advise people to stay away from pennziol products. I have worked on several engines that have run pennzoil oils and have very high amounts of sludge build up due to a high wax base in the oil. Especially if you go over the oil change limits.

With that said you cant go wrong with Havoline and mobile have my vote.
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Old 05-25-2010, 09:30 AM   #18
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Just did my oil change with Castrol GTX 10w40 High Mileage
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Old 05-25-2010, 10:51 AM   #19
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I would advise people to stay away from pennziol products. I have worked on several engines that have run pennzoil oils and have very high amounts of sludge build up due to a high wax base in the oil.
That hasn't been true of Pennzoil since they switched their base stock to what they call PureBase back in 1997. Pennzoil makes an excellent quality motor oil and the wax base that they and many manufacturers used to use is long gone.
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Old 05-25-2010, 12:18 PM   #20
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I would advise people to stay away from pennziol products. I have worked on several engines that have run pennzoil oils and have very high amounts of sludge build up due to a high wax base in the oil. Especially if you go over the oil change limits.

With that said you cant go wrong with Havoline and mobile have my vote.
Now there is the key, don't go over the limits with any oil. For me new oil and filter every 3k. Not a hint of sludge in my last three 200k vehicles and the oil change only cost 15-18 bucks each time when you DIY.
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Old 05-25-2010, 01:05 PM   #21
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I go full synthetic Castrol and change it about every 10K. No problems.
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Old 05-25-2010, 02:57 PM   #22
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Is there any benefits to running synthetic oil versus natural oil. I have never used synthetic but that is what the previous owner was running in my 95 yj. Can I go back to natural oil after synthetic has been run threw the motor. thx
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Old 05-25-2010, 03:47 PM   #23
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[QUOTE]So by my having gone from 10W-30 to 10W-40, that just means my engine oil is a tad heavier when fully warmed up. I changed just out of the theory that an engine with as many miles as mine (182K) probably has a bit of wear that a very slightly heavier viscosity oil can help protect it a bit more. /QUOTE]

I got mine with 42k and the guy left a history of maintance that was flawless. I have 175K miles on mine now and no leak no burn and I've been running castrol high milage since 75k 10-30 and have been very happy. In winter I sometimes go to 10-40 only on theory as well. Only gets down to single digits, now I'm thinking I should actually be doing 5w-30? Is that correct? .... wwjd?

But when you do.... start burning and using oil, I highly recomend cleaning the PCV valve in the back of the 4.0 head. It's a plastic elbow tube that does not come out of the valve cover but the tube that connects it to the exhaust manifold does. Clean that tube well, and the elbow and you can wrench the exhaust manifold connection out with a deep well socket and clean that thouroughly.


[QUOTE]Is there any benefits to running synthetic oil versus natural oil. I have never used synthetic but that is what the previous owner was running in my 95 yj. Can I go back to natural oil after synthetic has been run threw the motor. thx/QUOTE]

I've heard through some guys that synthetics actually "root" in some engines if there not required. The oil penatrates the cylinder walls and can create damage and can sling more oil up into the exhaust manifold. I've tried synthetics in the past and could notice a differance and felt comfortable going past 2500mi a oil change but just run some high milage and a bottle of Lucas every once in a while.
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Old 05-25-2010, 03:52 PM   #24
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I use Castrol GTX...

and I think you guys are backwords with the thickness of the oil. The low number is thin when hot. The high number is thick when cold. A 5-10 weight will have a little thicker consistancy than water. A 30-40 weight is a normal oil thickness when cold.

Think of it on the furthest side of the spectrum. 90 weight gear lube is some pretty thick stuff. About twice as thick as your 10-30 or 10-40...

That would mean that switching to 10-40 from 10-30 gives you a thicker oil when cold. Its still 10 weight when hot. If you want a thicker oil when HOT you'll need like a 20-50. If you want a thinner oil when hot, use a 5w-30 or 5w-40.
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Old 05-25-2010, 05:00 PM   #25
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and I think you guys are backwords with the thickness of the oil. The low number is thin when hot. The high number is thick when cold. A 5-10 weight will have a little thicker consistancy than water. A 30-40 weight is a normal oil thickness when cold.

Think of it on the furthest side of the spectrum. 90 weight gear lube is some pretty thick stuff. About twice as thick as your 10-30 or 10-40...

That would mean that switching to 10-40 from 10-30 gives you a thicker oil when cold. Its still 10 weight when hot. If you want a thicker oil when HOT you'll need like a 20-50. If you want a thinner oil when hot, use a 5w-30 or 5w-40.
Chris, I'm sorry but you have the viscosity description backwards.

Take a 5W-30 for example. First, the 'W' behind the 5 stands for Winter (not weight). It has a viscosity of 5 in Winter (cold conditions) before it has a chance to be warmed up by the engine. So a 5W-30 oil has a viscosity of 5 when cold and 30 when warmed up. A 10W-30 has the same 30 viscosity when warm but with its 10W, it has double the viscosity when cold when compared to a 5W-30.
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Old 05-25-2010, 05:03 PM   #26
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I'm not a Mobil 1 fan but wonder why Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic would cause an increase in oil pressure (Post #4 above) when the pressure regulating valve would control that. Here's how the pressure regulating valve works.

I don't use synthetic oil but here's a couple reasons why one might:
- better flowability at cold temperatures. A 5W-30 synthetic will flow easier than a 5W-30 conventional oil even though the viscosities (5) are the same at the colder temperatures.
- synthetic oil has a longer wear life than conventional oil and therefore can be used for longer oil change intervals, providing the right filter is used. With a long oil change interval, one might end up trading off a higher efficiency filter for more dirt holding capacity.
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Old 05-25-2010, 05:08 PM   #27
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Is there any benefits to running synthetic oil versus natural oil. I have never used synthetic but that is what the previous owner was running in my 95 yj. Can I go back to natural oil after synthetic has been run threw the motor. thx
Synthetic and mineral-based (dino) can be mixed and switched, you can go back & forth with no harm. You can even add one to the other without harm in a pinch, they are 100% compatible with each other.

If it was uber cold where I lived, like Buffalo NY or Grand Forks ND, I would run nothing but a synthetic during the winter months. The rest of the year, I would run plain old dino oil.

Here in SOCAL where it does not get very cold (I wear a parka when it reaches 40 ), I run dino oil year-round. Synthetic is superb in uber-cold conditions because it flows better when extremely cold. During the rest of the year in when it is warmer in the North or year-round here in San Diego, I won't pay extra to run it. I personally believe a good modern multi-weight dino oil like from Valvoline, Havoline, etc. protects our engines superbly in all but the super (like 0 and colder) coldest conditions.
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Old 05-25-2010, 08:15 PM   #28
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Gonna jump in this one, summer time I use 10w-30, winter 5w-30 and 10w-30 combo. Any of you guys that have cold weather use this combo? Jerry what do you think or just stick w/man. recommendations?
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Old 05-25-2010, 08:42 PM   #29
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It is important to recognize that there are two things you need to be worried about with oil. 1. Heat breaks down the lubricating properties faster and 2. The oil is there to take contaminates away from your engine. Even though an oil may still lubricate properly does not mean it is not acidic and contaminated no matter how great your filter is. I change my dino oil religiously between 3-4k. Last Jeep had 250,000 miles and still strong until that light pole killed it.
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Old 05-25-2010, 08:43 PM   #30
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I run Shell or Mobil1 10W30 synthetic.

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