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Old 04-01-2013, 06:54 PM   #1
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Wheel spacers

Does anyone know how much they cost and the pros and cons of them I'm looking for some that isn't that costly but is still good

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Old 04-01-2013, 07:11 PM   #2
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Why do you want them?

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Old 04-01-2013, 07:12 PM   #3
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More aggressive stance
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:16 PM   #4
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Personally I will not use them nor adapters. I would get wheels with less back spacing. Buts that's my opinion and you will get a lot of pro and cons and need to make your own decision.
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:16 PM   #5
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Cheap and easy recommend putting them on with a torque wrench. As long as they are quality made should have no problems just like having back spaced rims.
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:16 PM   #6
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Check out quadratec. They have lots. You want the spacers that bolt on to your current lugs and have their own from there for your wheels to bolt to. Cons=more stress on wheel bearings and lugs. Pro=wider stance without having to get new rims. If you aren't doing desert racing or big jumps or anything you should be fine with the 1.25" or so spacers.
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:19 PM   #7
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I'm gona have to check them out I play in the mud that's bout it
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:21 PM   #8
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was wondering the same thing also, i plan on getting 3/4 wheel spacers for my rear wheels because i want to put an 8.8 in.

I can see how there would be more stress on the wheel bearings but other than that i don't see how a solid chunk of aluminum can cause any damage, just make sure it has quality hardware (studs)
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:26 PM   #9
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I can see how there would be more stress on the wheel bearings
No more than wheels with less back space.
For whatever it's worth, between my CJ5, my 3/4 ton truck, and my TJ (I only ran them on it for a short time) I've got probably 80-90K miles on wheel spacers, with absolutely no issues.
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:26 PM   #10
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I wana find ones that doesn't cost alot but won't break on me
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:26 PM   #11
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More aggressive stance
so what's the backspacing on the wheels you have now?

typically you don't want to go over about 3.5" backspacing to keep a somewhat reasonable scrub radius and keep ball joints & unit bearings alive.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:28 PM   #12
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I have no clue I'm new to all this
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:31 PM   #13
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My friend had them on his cherokee with 33 12.5 s with like 6.5 lift and he got a ticket for his tires being too wide or too far out
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:33 PM   #14
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Properly torgue them, check them after about 50 miles, and you should be OK. I would check them again with every oil change.

They are an inexpensive solution until you can afford new wheels, but it's always best to go with wheels as opposed to spacers. I think some of the horror stories you might hear are people who thrashed them or did not properly install/torque/check them religiously.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:42 PM   #15
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I have no clue I'm new to all this
well maybe you should figure that out before you go buying stuff?
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:43 PM   #16
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My friend had them on his cherokee with 33 12.5 s with like 6.5 lift and he got a ticket for his tires being too wide or too far out
A lot of states have laws that do not allow tires to stick out past the fenders. IMO why give the cops a reason to pull you over and look for more things to harass you for. I got a ticket for having the dealers frame around my license plate on the wife's car. I saw the law posted in the papers a while ago and forgot to remove the frame.
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:04 PM   #17
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If I got them could I get bigger fender flares
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:29 PM   #18
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might run into an issue if you get new tires or take it somewhere for any repairs where they have to take a wheel off. some shops won't touch a vehicle with them for liability.
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:36 PM   #19
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I'm gona have to check them out I play in the mud that's bout it
eBay has a high quality set for 100 dollars, they are silver in color. I have them. They help with rollover narrow stance, and look good on jeeps. But I must tell you ABSOLUTELY you need to loctite and torque them in 100ft lbs at least.. Supposedly they are hard on wheel bearings but I haven't had issues...
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:13 AM   #20
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eBay has a high quality set for 100 dollars, they are silver in color. I have them. They help with rollover narrow stance, and look good on jeeps. But I must tell you ABSOLUTELY you need to loctite and torque them in 100ft lbs at least.. Supposedly they are hard on wheel bearings but I haven't had issues...
Thanks for the help I can get loctite at my work and a 100 dollars for all four?
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:44 AM   #21
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I personally never used thread locker (loc-tite). Would you put thread locker on the studs holding your wheels on? No different. If you do decide to use it, forget about checking the torque on the spacer nuts. First, the threadlocker will give you a false reading. Second, if the nuts do take additional torque and turn even a little bit, you've just compromised the thread locker and it's no longer doing it's job.
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:59 AM   #22
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I have a set of adapters on mine, you will need wider fender flares because the mud is going be kicked up by the tires. On that note its just another pain to take off if you strip them.
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:25 PM   #23
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My experiance with wheel spacers: I put on the Alloy USA, a.k.a Rugged Ridge, spacers on and it put to much leverage on the wheel studs and sheared one off. Granted that may have been my fault with too much torque on that specific stud. After to talking to a desert racing Taco driver he told me the samething about spacers and leverage on the wheel stud especially with 33" or bigger or heavy tires and that I should have went with less backspacing on the wheel if I wanted the wheels out further. Actually when I've talked about spacers to many other more experianced folks the first response is that I wasted my money and that they are "stupid" for off-road use. Daily driving and scooting around town sure. But this is just my experiance.
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:30 PM   #24
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My experiance with wheel spacers: I put on the Alloy USA, a.k.a Rugged Ridge, spacers on and it put to much leverage on the wheel studs and sheared one off. Granted that may have been my fault with too much torque on that specific stud. After to talking to a desert racing Taco driver he told me the samething about spacers and leverage on the wheel stud especially with 33" or bigger or heavy tires and that I should have went with less backspacing on the wheel if I wanted the wheels out further. Actually when I've talked about spacers to many other more experianced folks the first response is that I wasted my money and that they are "stupid" for off-road use. Daily driving and scooting around town sure. But this is just my experiance.

A wheel with less back space will put the exact same forces on the studs as will spacers of equal difference. On top of that, once the nut is torqued properly, the stud is under the same tension whether there's even weight on the wheel or not, unless the yeild strength of the stud is exceeded.
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:57 PM   #25
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A wheel with less back space will put the exact same forces on the studs as will spacers of equal difference. On top of that, once the nut is torqued properly, the stud is under the same tension whether there's even weight on the wheel or not, unless the yeild strength of the stud is exceeded.
This depends on the type of spacer. If it is only a spacer (a ring with holes cut for the lugs), the spacer will take up some of the length of the lug bolt, meaning there will be less actual bolt for the nut to hold on to. This makes it weaker. Less threads to hold on to means less strength when the tire is pulling hard to a side. This problem is eliminated when a spacer is used that has its own lug bolts that come out after attaching to the stock ones.
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:16 PM   #26
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This depends on the type of spacer. If it is only a spacer (a ring with holes cut for the lugs), the spacer will take up some of the length of the lug bolt, meaning there will be less actual bolt for the nut to hold on to. This makes it weaker. Less threads to hold on to means less strength when the tire is pulling hard to a side. This problem is eliminated when a spacer is used that has its own lug bolts that come out after attaching to the stock ones.
Yes, I do understand basic physics.
I seriously doubt anyone here is talking about those.
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:36 PM   #27
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Yes, I do understand basic physics.
I seriously doubt anyone here is talking about those.
OK, just making sure. My friend got all excited and told me he got a great deal on wheel spacers from eBay. When they came, they were the silly spacers. Just wanted to make sure no one else made the mistake. Those disks are fine for very small spacers but for larger ones the bolt on are the way to go.
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:11 PM   #28
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Yes, I do understand basic physics.
I seriously doubt anyone here is talking about those.
That is the only type/style to use. Have them on a yamaha Rhino that we aggressively ride in the sand dunes, jump etc no issues. I've also used other style, but only on quads for a mild tt/ flat track type racing.
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Old 04-03-2013, 01:05 AM   #29
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I've read a lot on spacers on the forum and have been considering them myself. What I found is this: Wheels with the right back spacing for your Jeep/Tires and application (type of driving) is best. If you still go with spacers they must be "Hub Centric", I haven't seen reviews for the ones on ebay which say they are hub centric but they are about $120 for a set of four. Most who have used them buy Spidertrax which are hubcentric and wheel centric and run $200 for all four. Most tire shops will not balance your tires if you have the spacers on so if you paid for that service, better ask upfront. Personally I'm still on the fence, but I'm running 31's and will be until the tread runs out, then on to 33s.
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:21 AM   #30
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This depends on the type of spacer. If it is only a spacer (a ring with holes cut for the lugs), the spacer will take up some of the length of the lug bolt, meaning there will be less actual bolt for the nut to hold on to. This makes it weaker. Less threads to hold on to means less strength when the tire is pulling hard to a side. This problem is eliminated when a spacer is used that has its own lug bolts that come out after attaching to the stock ones.
While i agree with what youre saying, i think you have your forces messed up, when using a silly spacer (ones with out extra lugs) it does produce a greater force by the torque principle, the point of rotation being the end of the lug bolt. by moving the wheel out, you will multiply the perpendicular force by the distance. But agreed with what you said, but not the lug bolt having less to attach on to is not necessarily how it works. Most lugs have a set of groves that does not pas through the whole lug, so there for, unless you have a ridiculous amount of silly spaces, the threads that are holding the wheel on are the same. While i could see this being true if you have a lot, then i would say this is completely valid possibility. By no means are you wrong. but I feel like that would only apply in extreme cases.

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