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Old 06-27-2013, 12:12 PM   #1
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Wheel/Tire/Lift help please

Hello, I am in the market to finally get my 2002 TJ a suspension lift, with aftermarket wheels and with new tires.

I have everything that I want narrowed down and have it all picked out. I just wanted some help from ya'll please as to if I have all the specifications of everything right and if i'd need some more things maybe to add (Like longer bumpstops, etc.)?

Suspension lift kit - BDS 2" coil lift kit - $591.35 from BDS direct
The Kit comes with:
  • BDS 5500 series front and rear shocks
  • BDS 5500 series single steering stabalizer
  • Alignment cam bolts
  • The kit also comes with lower control arm skid plates and their steering box skid plate
  • 1" body lift (purchased separately from the kit though)
With just a 2" coil lift will I need longer bumpstops to accommodate? Will a transfer case drop be necessary or would it be a good idea to drop the Tcase a little regardless? Also, I have no idea what is a good brand to choose for the body lift. Any American made ones?

Any comments and opinions on the kit I chose are much appreciated!

Wheels - Black Rock 942 "D" window steel black wheels - 5 of them for $433.00 from Discount Tire
Specifications:
  • 15" tall and 8" wide (15x8")
  • 4.5" backspacing
  • With the 5x4.5" bolt pattern
  • 0mm offset
Tires - Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs - 5 of them for $1,054.25 installed on wheels, balanced, warranty, from Discount Tire
Specifications:
  • 33" tall
  • 12.5" width
Any opinions on my wheel and tire choice are much appreciated too!

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Old 06-27-2013, 12:30 PM   #2
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Only good things to say about the Duratracs! Have 31's and love them on and off the trail.

As for the lift, I have a 2.5 inch rough country suspension lift and I get driveline vibes because my t-case was never dropped. However, some people don't get them with that size lift. "Every jeep is different" is the general consensus I get when I ask mechanics why that may be. Instead of dropping my t-case, I plan on doing a Motor Mount Lift and a body lift.

Since you are considering doing a body lift, I would recommend doing a motor mount lift at the same time. This will eliminate the need to drop your transfer case. Not to mention it'll raise your oil pan an inch, which gets it a little more out harm's way on the trail. If you do a body lift without a motor mount lift, you may need to modify the fan shroud in order to prevent the mechanical fan of your engine from hitting it.

Daystar's BL is a little more expensive, but it completely replaces the factory bushings your body currently sits on. So if yours seem tired and worn out, it might be a good idea to replace them completely while raising them. If they look good, JKS BL is also good quality (a fellow jeeper runs it and loves it). That kit simply bolts on on top of your existing bushings.

But hey man, it's just advice. Good luck with your rig!

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Old 06-27-2013, 12:43 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Robertsk1 View Post
Only good things to say about the Duratracs! Have 31's and love them on and off the trail.

As for the lift, I have a 2.5 inch rough country suspension lift and I get driveline vibes because my t-case was never dropped. However, some people don't get them with that size lift. "Every jeep is different" is the general consensus I get when I ask mechanics why that may be. Instead of dropping my t-case, I plan on doing a Motor Mount Lift and a body lift.

Since you are considering doing a body lift, I would recommend doing a motor mount lift at the same time. This will eliminate the need to drop your transfer case. Not to mention it'll raise your oil pan an inch, which gets it a little more out harm's way on the trail. If you do a body lift without a motor mount lift, you may need to modify the fan shroud in order to prevent the mechanical fan of your engine from hitting it.

Daystar's BL is a little more expensive, but it completely replaces the factory bushings your body currently sits on. So if yours seem tired and worn out, it might be a good idea to replace them completely while raising them. If they look good, JKS BL is also good quality (a fellow jeeper runs it and loves it). That kit simply bolts on on top of your existing bushings.

But hey man, it's just advice. Good luck with your rig!
Ok i'll look at Daystar, i've heard great things about them and thank you for your input. I forgot about a MML but will look into it.
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:53 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Nashorn101 View Post
Ok i'll look at Daystar, i've heard great things about them and thank you for your input. I forgot about a MML but will look into it.
IMO, the benefits outweigh the cost and I don't mind the extra wrench time. Anything I can do that makes my rig run smoother means it'll run better longer. Brown dog offroad makes a great product (the aforementioned fellow jeeper has them and they are very well built) american made too
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:16 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nashorn101 View Post
Hello, I am in the market to finally get my 2002 TJ a suspension lift, with aftermarket wheels and with new tires.

I have everything that I want narrowed down and have it all picked out. I just wanted some help from ya'll please as to if I have all the specifications of everything right and if i'd need some more things maybe to add (Like longer bumpstops, etc.)?

Suspension lift kit - BDS 2" coil lift kit - $591.35 from BDS direct
The Kit comes with:
  • BDS 5500 series front and rear shocks
  • BDS 5500 series single steering stabalizer
  • Alignment cam bolts
  • The kit also comes with lower control arm skid plates and their steering box skid plate
  • 1" body lift (purchased separately from the kit though)
With just a 2" coil lift will I need longer bumpstops to accommodate? Will a transfer case drop be necessary or would it be a good idea to drop the Tcase a little regardless? Also, I have no idea what is a good brand to choose for the body lift. Any American made ones?

Any comments and opinions on the kit I chose are much appreciated!

Wheels - Black Rock 942 "D" window steel black wheels - 5 of them for $433.00 from Discount Tire
Specifications:
  • 15" tall and 8" wide (15x8")
  • 4.5" backspacing
  • With the 5x4.5" bolt pattern
  • 0mm offset
Tires - Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs - 5 of them for $1,054.25 installed on wheels, balanced, warranty, from Discount Tire
Specifications:
  • 33" tall
  • 12.5" width
Any opinions on my wheel and tire choice are much appreciated too!
You may want to double check on the wheels as 4.5 inches of back space may not be what you need for proper clearance with a 12.5 inch tire.
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:17 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Robertsk1 View Post
IMO, the benefits outweigh the cost and I don't mind the extra wrench time. Anything I can do that makes my rig run smoother means it'll run better longer. Brown dog offroad makes a great product (the aforementioned fellow jeeper has them and they are very well built) american made too
Yea i'm the same way, and ok i'll look into them too!

So after some research I came up with that a 2" coil lift will barely clear 33" tires. I'd like some more clearance though so it would make sense to add a small BL, in my case the 1" body lift. But to correct angles and raise my engine up to the same level as my body, it would make sense to get that 1" MML. Now I really don't want to get into the MML as it sounds like a big project and something i'd rather not undertake.

Is it really that big of a deal to have a 1" body lift but to not have the accompanying 1" motor lift? Or what is your opinion?
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:25 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by 530ktm View Post
You may want to double check on the wheels as 4.5 inches of back space may not be what you need for proper clearance with a 12.5 inch tire.
Yea I was wondering if that would be the right backspacing. But I don't know how to check what backspacing I need. How do you check?
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:29 PM   #8
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Not a big deal at all. All you need to do is modify your radiator shroud to allow it to be mounted higher. There's threads on here where guys detail how they did it.

As for your transfer case, without the motor mount lift it may or may not need to be dropped. I lifted my jeep 2.5 and the driveline vibrates a good amount, but like I said, some do not. I'm not sure if by coil lift you mean coil SPACER lift, or a suspension lift, and I'm also not sure if a coil spacer lift (if that is what you meant) effects driveline angles so that's a question for someone who has done that particular style kit. My kit is a 2.5 suspension and I would have to drop the t case if I wasn't lifting the motor.

Hope that didn't come out too confusing haha

Here's some great info on the matter
http://browndogindustries.com/Jeep-M...unt-Lifts.aspx
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:51 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Robertsk1 View Post
Not a big deal at all. All you need to do is modify your radiator shroud to allow it to be mounted higher. There's threads on here where guys detail how they did it.

As for your transfer case, without the motor mount lift it may or may not need to be dropped. I lifted my jeep 2.5 and the driveline vibrates a good amount, but like I said, some do not. I'm not sure if by coil lift you mean coil SPACER lift, or a suspension lift, and I'm also not sure if a coil spacer lift (if that is what you meant) effects driveline angles so that's a question for someone who has done that particular style kit. My kit is a 2.5 suspension and I would have to drop the t case if I wasn't lifting the motor.

Hope that didn't come out too confusing haha

Here's some great info on the matter
Jeep Motor Mount Lifts (MML)
Oh ok, I thought it would be a big issue but yea now that sounds like a simple fix. Thanks!

And no I don't mean spacers / Budget Boost I mean 2" longer coils for my TJ. Sorry if my terminology was confusing! But yea that all makes sense, assuming I don't do the MML because I don't want to then if I have driveline vibrations i'll do the transfer case drop because it's pretty easy to do.

Thanks!
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Old 06-27-2013, 01:59 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Nashorn101 View Post
Yea I was wondering if that would be the right backspacing. But I don't know how to check what backspacing I need. How do you check?
4 inches is the most you can have for 12.5 inch tires. Mine are 3.75 inches and that is what most run.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:03 PM   #11
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4 inches is the most you can have for 12.5 inch tires. Mine are 3.75 inches and that is what most run.
Oh ok. Thank you! Is there less rubbing with the less backs pacing? Like would a 3.5" be better in terms of running than 3.75"?
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:04 PM   #12
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No problem!

Let us know how it turns out when you're all done! the forum loves pictures!
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:20 PM   #13
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Yea I was wondering if that would be the right backspacing. But I don't know how to check what backspacing I need. How do you check?
I've got 33x12" Goodyear MTR's on 4.5" backspace wheels and they rub my control arms just slightly at full lock. My previous AT's same size didn't rub. If I were you, I would see if the wheels were available at maybe 4"bs or a little less.
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:54 PM   #14
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Oh ok. Thank you! Is there less rubbing with the less backs pacing? Like would a 3.5" be better in terms of running than 3.75"?
The less back space the farther the tire will stick out from the Jeep. 3.5 inches will start to look like a skate board so I would stay with 3.75 or 4. If you lay the wheel face down on the ground and put a straight edge on the lip of the wheel, the distance from that to the center of the wheel where the lugs go through is the amount of back space. The less amount of back space the farther the wheels stick out.
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:10 PM   #15
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I've got 33x12" Goodyear MTR's on 4.5" backspace wheels and they rub my control arms just slightly at full lock. My previous AT's same size didn't rub. If I were you, I would see if the wheels were available at maybe 4"bs or a little less.
How large of a lift do you have? And yea if that setup worked for you then a 4" back space sounds right for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 530ktm View Post
The less back space the farther the tire will stick out from the Jeep. 3.5 inches will start to look like a skate board so I would stay with 3.75 or 4. If you lay the wheel face down on the ground and put a straight edge on the lip of the wheel, the distance from that to the center of the wheel where the lugs go through is the amount of back space. The less amount of back space the farther the wheels stick out.
Ok thanks for clearing that up! Yea I want the biggest backspacing possible to avoid that "skate board" look.

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