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Old 08-26-2011, 11:15 PM   #31
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Well a couple things we need to know are what engine, transmission and gear ratio do you have now? Far as a lift and tires 33x12.50 15 duratracs will be good for summer and a set of 31x10.50 15 at's for winter. I would suggest Old Man Emu 2" springs with skyjacker hydro shocks and a 1.25" savvy, or jks body lift. You will also need a rear track bar bracket, longer sway bar links, front end alignment, bump stop extensions and to relocation the front track bar over 3/4" by drilling a new hole in the mount on the axle to recenter the axle. It is also advised you weld a plate over the old hole and the area the new hole will be for support as you are getting close to the edge of the bracket at that point. This setup will ride better then factory and give the desired clearance for a 33" tire. Check out dpg or rokmen for the majority of this stuff.

The reasons I suggest this are simple. With anymore lift spring and you need a t-case drop or sye/cv combo. This will also give the best ride for the money as OME makes one of the best springs you can buy for a jeep. There are some cheaper ways to go, but they don't ride well and don't last well either.

As for gears you need to answer the questions at the top. And if you have a dana 35 rear a super 35 kit from superior, or a ford 8.8 out of an explorer would be a very wise investment!

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Old 08-26-2011, 11:16 PM   #32
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I would run a one inch body lift and a two inch spacer lift. and some aggressive thirty threes like a baja claw or interco mud terrain. that way you would not have to worry about the axles and gears. it would be a lot cheaper than going with a bigger lift and thirty fives.

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Old 08-26-2011, 11:27 PM   #33
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Metalcloak is my vote also.
Happy customer here!
No lift w/ metalcloaks & 35's = headturner
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Old 08-27-2011, 03:17 AM   #34
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^^^ post some pics!
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Old 08-27-2011, 03:22 AM   #35
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Just had to add... I have about 9 inches of lift and daily drive and freeway drive.. no issues for me saftey wise
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Old 08-27-2011, 09:04 AM   #36
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4" Rough Country with some Smittybuilt tube fenders. Leaves you $6000 for gears apparently.
He wants something that rides smooth on the highway
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Old 08-27-2011, 09:50 AM   #37
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He wants something that rides smooth on the highway
Lol, mine rides smooth on the highway. It is off road that is rough as heck.
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Old 08-27-2011, 01:04 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClPeller
^^^ post some pics!
This is with a 2.5" lift.
I'll see if I can find one without lift
Metalcloak overlines w/out flares

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Old 08-27-2011, 01:23 PM   #39
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For what you are after 33" tires would be a much better fit. Grab a OME lift (and shocks) to give yourself a great ride on the road and lots of flex for those tough speed bumps at the mall.
33" tires wont need the bigger brakes and upgraded drivetrain. Plus with the smaller lift and tires you wont run into the problems with the driveline. Saving the money that would need to be spent on a new driveshaft and slip yoke eliminator.
Jeeps on 33's look pretty nice as well.
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Old 08-27-2011, 01:25 PM   #40
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Old 08-27-2011, 01:56 PM   #41
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4 inch lift and 33s look real nice on tjs.. get a t case drop and you'll be golden.. wont really make you stand out like you want tho
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Old 08-27-2011, 02:02 PM   #42
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4 inch lift and 33s look real nice on tjs.. get a t case drop and you'll be golden.. wont really make you stand out like you want tho
This set up is far from GOLDEN. Lead maybe definitely not gold.

Will work well for a mall crawler like the OP wants though.
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Old 08-27-2011, 02:04 PM   #43
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It works.. I wheel with a guy who has that setup and while he wants an SYE and cv ds its still working for him
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Old 08-27-2011, 04:55 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkproximity
It works.. I wheel with a guy who has that setup and while he wants an SYE and cv ds its still working for him
Yep. Haven't had any issues. No vibes or anything. Does fine offroad. While I desire a cv ds and sye, it's not a necessity at this point.
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Old 08-27-2011, 09:47 PM   #45
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Hello -
From what I read above for what you want to do, this to me would be the easiest and safest way... Rough Country's 4" N2.0 Lift, it will clear 35" tires no problem. The lift it self is about $499. You wouldn't really need to add anything else to the lift kit. I ran that lift and everything it came with, with 35s and nothing else for a while. It rides fine for a DD, but it is a short arm lift. If you run the Transfer Case drop that comes with the kit, you will not need a longer drive shaft. If drive line vibrations do occur, then a slip yolk eliminator and longer drive shaft will be needed. You can get the kit for $525. If you can do all the labor then that's free.
If you can find a TJ that has a Dana 44 rear axle, that would be strong enough for mall crawling and running 35" tires, and you guys could re-gear it to 4.56 or 4.88's, depending on the transmission. (auto - 4.56, manual - 4.88). You want to try and avoid a Dana 35 rear axle as it is not strong enough if someone does decide to wheel it, and it is just plain weak. You can strengthen it by adding a Superior C-Clip Eliminator Kit. Re-gearing will bring the ratio closer to stock, and improve gas mileage significantly. I run 35s with 4.88s and I get 16-18MPG on highway. The Dana 30 front will handle the 35s fine for a daily driver.
A steering linkage is next to improve safety and strength. I run a Currie Steering set up, very strong but is about $400. Crown Automotive and Rugged Ridge also makes a strong steering setup I believe for under $200.
Upgrade the brakes to heavy duty pads to ensure good stopping power.
No sure what the tire coverage laws are there, but stock flares are ok and would look fine. You can search Craig's List for a used set of 4-6" flares for tire coverage.
Tires - Pick a tire of your choice and preference. I run Toyo MTs and they are a very nice tire on the highway, they go for about $300/tire. They are loud at highway speeds. BFG All Terrains are a quiet tire on road that is excellent in all weather and highway. I have run both, and the BFG is smoother, but the Toyo's look good, and are great off road with the deep tread. Baja Claw TTC is a mean looking tire as well.
Rims - Pick a rim of your choice, a 15" rim will make the tire look bigger and also give it more side wall protection. I run a 15x10 with 4" backspacing built in, and it gives it a wider look IMO.

This is the basic just to get you up and running as a daily driver with little to no off-roading, hope it helps. Any questions feel free to PM me. I will be glad to help.

Some links for you:

Jeep TJ N2-Series Suspension Lift

Crown Automotive Part HDSTRGCR1 - Heavy-Duty Steering Kit without Stabilizer by Rough Trail for Jeep

Rugged Ridge 18050.82 - Rugged Ridge Heavy Duty Tie Rod Kit for 93-06 Jeep® Cherokee XJ, Grand Cherokee ZJ, Wrangler TJ & Unlimited - Quadratec

Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tail Shaft Conversion Kits (you want the NP231 Kit for $525)

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/35X...t_pn=M%2fT5856
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Old 08-28-2011, 12:56 AM   #46
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Old 08-28-2011, 02:17 AM   #47
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did anybody see the "no flames please" comment? to those of you who have a serious interest in helping answer my question, the budget comment has to do with the lift itself. i do not need a long-arm, articulating, scratch-proof, carbon-fiber, rock-destroying, latest name brand rock crawling setup. i need a highway setup that will clear 35" tires. so of course i understand that i am in for several thousand dollars for this project, and that's just fine, i just don't want more lift than i need considering this will be a daily driver, on-highway vehicle. this is the first post i have made to this forum, and i have to say, i am a little surprised by the responses - i expected much better from this group considering the passion and expertise herein.
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What's funny is that the "lastest rock destroying long arm kits" will ride better on the highway than a budget short arm lift. The reason why you're getting a negative response is because no one needs 35" tires to crawl the mall. It's stupid to spend that much money and since you're going for cheapness, not do it right and lose performance. If its a DD only on highway vehicle shouldn't gas mileage be a concern?
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Originally Posted by jgorm View Post
35s will be fine with a dd, but it will cost $$$$$ to make it ride and drive nice. A rough guess would be $5-7000 for the suspension, gears, etc.
Yeah...stick with some 33s...you are going way over the top with the 35s. I am building my up for trails, not rocks, and it is my DD...the biggest I will go are 33s....less money and less extra mods (until I get the money saved for the SYE kit).

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Old 08-28-2011, 02:42 AM   #48
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maybe try a 33" tire and 3" or 3.5" lift combo instead. that would certainly be cheaper and probably better on gas. because above 4" requires extra work to be done. I've heard that Zone lift kits are good and are a decent price so i would take a look into that
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:48 AM   #49
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You could always do an air ride suspension similar to Kelderman. thoser are adjustable several inches. Therefore you cold go with 33's first and if you didnt like em you could go with 35' or vice versa. I assume air ride would ride well too..............

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Old 08-28-2011, 08:34 AM   #50
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Myself, I always buy a quality part that will last so I don't have to do it all over again in a couple years. This is why I wouldn't recommend rough country, procomp, superlift, trail master or a few other cheap kits . They simply don't withstand the test of time. Why buy a lift to find in two years you have lost half what you originally gained due to a poorly engineered product made of sub standard materials.
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Old 08-28-2011, 09:12 AM   #51
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This is how I would do it RIGHT. You can ran 35s on road with a 44/30 combo easily. Aka a 4.0 LJ with 44/30 axles would be prefereable. Okay so acquire this jeep^

BDS 3inch suspension (or zone on a budget)
JKS 1 inch MML
JKS 1.25 BL
adjustable front track bar or relocation (I dont know what comes with BDS kit)
rear trackbar bracket
Metal cloaks if you want to spend the money, otherwise I would get PSC for a mid price or smittybilt if you want the cheapest. At least repaint the smits. Genright also makes some mean tubes.
Add you 35 inch tires and new rims with correct backspacing.
now cycle your suspension and extend bumpstops to proper length. There is a good chance with having an LJ and installing the mml that you can remove your tcase drop, or at least reduce it.

Your done. Add bumpers, winches, rockers, decals and stickers to your hearts desire.


Your looking at around 4k for the suspension and fenders and stuff the expensive way or 2600 the cheapest way.
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Old 08-28-2011, 10:39 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00
This is how I would do it RIGHT. You can ran 35s on road with a 44/30 combo easily. Aka a 4.0 LJ with 44/30 axles would be prefereable. Okay so acquire this jeep^

BDS 3inch suspension (or zone on a budget)
JKS 1 inch MML
JKS 1.25 BL
adjustable front track bar or relocation (I dont know what comes with BDS kit)
rear trackbar bracket
Metal cloaks if you want to spend the money, otherwise I would get PSC for a mid price or smittybilt if you want the cheapest. At least repaint the smits. Genright also makes some mean tubes.
Add you 35 inch tires and new rims with correct backspacing.
now cycle your suspension and extend bumpstops to proper length. There is a good chance with having an LJ and installing the mml that you can remove your tcase drop, or at least reduce it.

Your done. Add bumpers, winches, rockers, decals and stickers to your hearts desire.

Your looking at around 4k for the suspension and fenders and stuff the expensive way or 2600 the cheapest way.
Not even close to done for a 35" tire. You still need to upgrade the steering with a minimum of a durango steering box and a v8 zj tie rod. Then the brakes need upgraded as well to stop with that much tire . The gearing will also need to be addressed as well, but should be for any tire larger then stock anyway!
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Old 08-28-2011, 11:39 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
This is how I would do it RIGHT. You can ran 35s on road with a 44/30 combo easily. Aka a 4.0 LJ with 44/30 axles would be prefereable. Okay so acquire this jeep^

BDS 3inch suspension (or zone on a budget)
JKS 1 inch MML
JKS 1.25 BL
adjustable front track bar or relocation (I dont know what comes with BDS kit)
rear trackbar bracket
Metal cloaks if you want to spend the money, otherwise I would get PSC for a mid price or smittybilt if you want the cheapest. At least repaint the smits. Genright also makes some mean tubes.
Add you 35 inch tires and new rims with correct backspacing.
now cycle your suspension and extend bumpstops to proper length. There is a good chance with having an LJ and installing the mml that you can remove your tcase drop, or at least reduce it.

Your done. Add bumpers, winches, rockers, decals and stickers to your hearts desire.


Your looking at around 4k for the suspension and fenders and stuff the expensive way or 2600 the cheapest way.
That's definitely not what I could consider "RIGHT" (enough) for 35" tires. 4.25" (3" SL + 1.25 BL) definitely doesn't provide sufficient clearance for 35" tires except on the street. Instead, I'd go for a 4" suspension lift (not a BDS either) plus a 1" body lift to obtain the recommended 5". 4" is what is recommended by experienced offroaders for 33" tires, not 35" which really needs 5" of clearance to do it "RIGHT". And once you get to 4" of suspension lift, you need to install a SYE kit and CV driveshaft.

You also need a beefed up steering system like from Currie, the stock steering you kept in the picture is definitely not up to 35" tires. A rear track bar relocation bracket is a band-aid, adjustable length track bars for the front and rear are needed to do it "RIGHT".

Not to mention better brakes are needed as do the axles need to be regeared for 35" tires.
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Old 08-28-2011, 12:04 PM   #54
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I think we are all forgetting the fact that the OP has already said it will be a mall crawler.
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Old 08-28-2011, 12:31 PM   #55
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I think we are all forgetting the fact that the OP has already said it will be a mall crawler.
This is true . However many of the suggestions in the above posts relating to a 35" tire are in fact needed more so for on road use then off. Especially brakes and steering due to safety concerns . LOL, imagine how bad it would look having a custom vehicle with your company logo on it responsible for the accident that backed up rush hour traffic. Not the reason I want to make the six o'clock news.
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Old 08-28-2011, 03:36 PM   #56
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That's definitely not what I could consider "RIGHT" (enough) for 35" tires. 4.25" (3" SL + 1.25 BL) definitely doesn't provide sufficient clearance for 35" tires except on the street. Instead, I'd go for a 4" suspension lift (not a BDS either) plus a 1" body lift to obtain the recommended 5". 4" is what is recommended by experienced offroaders for 33" tires, not 35" which really needs 5" of clearance to do it "RIGHT". And once you get to 4" of suspension lift, you need to install a SYE kit and CV driveshaft.

You also need a beefed up steering system like from Currie, the stock steering you kept in the picture is definitely not up to 35" tires. A rear track bar relocation bracket is a band-aid, adjustable length track bars for the front and rear are needed to do it "RIGHT".

Not to mention better brakes are needed as do the axles need to be regeared for 35" tires.
With the metalcloaks I think I would have plenty of room for 35s? Notice where you said "except on the street" above. This is a street rig... I also read a thread where you earlier posted that there was nothing "bad" about a tcase drop, other than the loss of ground clearance. So at worst, even if he did go with your suggestion of 4 inches instead of three, he could add a tcase drop. But he doesnt need that much lift because, as I said he should use proper bumpstops. People can "fit" 33s stock, I am sure you can "fit" 35s, and with proper bumpstop there would be no damage. He doesn't need the flex of an offroad rig for driving around so it wouldn't be a big deal to have extra bumpstop.

He asked about suspension, not drivetrain or brakes or steering. So I didn't include any of that. I answered his question.

It is entertaining how you both try to tell me how wrong I am though. Have a nice day.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnyancey View Post
this will NOT be a rock-crawler, just trying to build a vehicle that doesn't look like every other car on the road. we know for sure that we want to upfit with 35" tires, so can any of you recommend a lift kit
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Old 08-28-2011, 03:47 PM   #57
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Not even close to done for a 35" tire. You still need to upgrade the steering with a minimum of a durango steering box and a v8 zj tie rod. Then the brakes need upgraded as well to stop with that much tire . The gearing will also need to be addressed as well, but should be for any tire larger then stock anyway!
I disagree with the steering box. 100%. The tie rod I would get, but like I mentioned I only addressed suspension. I agree with better brakes. And gear is obvious. Though he could run stock gears if he got 4.10s in it, but it would just be slow and bad on gas. hehe.
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:21 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00
This is how I would do it RIGHT. You can ran 35s on road with a 44/30 combo easily. Aka a 4.0 LJ with 44/30 axles would be prefereable. Okay so acquire this jeep^

BDS 3inch suspension (or zone on a budget)
JKS 1 inch MML
JKS 1.25 BL
adjustable front track bar or relocation (I dont know what comes with BDS kit)
rear trackbar bracket
Metal cloaks if you want to spend the money, otherwise I would get PSC for a mid price or smittybilt if you want the cheapest. At least repaint the smits. Genright also makes some mean tubes.
Add you 35 inch tires and new rims with correct backspacing.
now cycle your suspension and extend bumpstops to proper length. There is a good chance with having an LJ and installing the mml that you can remove your tcase drop, or at least reduce it.

Your done. Add bumpers, winches, rockers, decals and stickers to your hearts desire.

Your looking at around 4k for the suspension and fenders and stuff the expensive way or 2600 the cheapest way.
You just said that is how you'd do it RIGHT, not how to build a street only rig.
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:34 PM   #59
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Im tellin ya, 6" from RC and be done with it
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:35 PM   #60
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My opinion, but doing it "right" for street only use would be MetalCloak - no lift, changing the gearing, and making sure the steering and brakes are up to snuff...also need to do something with the tire carrier for the extra weight. Any lift is pointless and only serves to worsen an already bad handling vehicle...also makes getting in and out that much more difficult, and puts more stress (more than just adding 35's anyway) on the control arms/bushings.

In reality, a street-only rig shouldn't really be modified from stock anyway (they are a bad enough road-vehicle as is)...but we all know people who do so for the look. Their Jeep, their money, their choice.

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My new lift and tires are finally on Owen_TJ TJ General Discussion Forum 24 05-08-2011 09:24 PM
Lift and Tires? jeep95 TJ General Discussion Forum 2 11-27-2009 07:41 PM



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