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Old 08-26-2011, 03:35 PM   #1
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Which lift for 35" tires for mall-crawler?

complete newbie, no flames please. i own a commercial truck dealership, and we are going to build a jeep mall crawler project on a 97-06 TJ. this will NOT be a rock-crawler, just trying to build a vehicle that doesn't look like every other car on the road. we know for sure that we want to upfit with 35" tires, so can any of you recommend a lift kit that's not overly expensive and that will provide a good ride on the highway? remember, this will be a DAILY DRIVER, a mall-crawler and NOT a rock-crawler, and highway ride & safety and overall cost are the two biggest concerns. any suggestions?

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Old 08-26-2011, 04:19 PM   #2
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You want to run 35 inch tires but don't want to spend a lot of money. Good luck with this project.

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Old 08-26-2011, 04:22 PM   #3
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:23 PM   #4
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Nothing to add here but good luck. You better put your fire suit on.

Subbing for the lulz
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:24 PM   #5
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Whats your budget? Do you want it legit or to "just get you by?"

Cheap and 35s dont typically belong in the same sentence.
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:41 PM   #6
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basically you'll need 5" of lift minimum of total lift to clear comfortably. Cheapest company to go through is probably skyjacker or rough country. Easies route is probably 4" budget boost and a 1" body. But there are many other things to consider. You will probably run into driveshaft vibrations but can solve that with a transfer case drop. You'll need to regear, id say 4.56 should work fine. A dana 44 would be ideal but if your not wheeling you may get away with the 35. Id also uprgade the brakes
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:44 PM   #7
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MetalCloak anyone?
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:47 PM   #8
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I feel bad for all the people who buy used lifted Jeeps with big tires thinking they are all set for wheeling, when the PO's scrimped hard on budget boosts and running gear.
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:51 PM   #9
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MetalCloak anyone?
My thoughts exactly. No lift required.
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:55 PM   #10
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I feel bad for all the people who buy used lifted Jeeps with big tires thinking they are all set for wheeling, when the PO's scrimped hard on budget boosts and running gear.
Why? They probably would have gone that route anyway...and if not, were probably smart enough to look and see it wasn't set up right before buying.

Just takes one step out of the path to higher quality parts...

I bought stock for this very reason...I wanted a fresh start...not someone else's junk.
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:56 PM   #11
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basically you'll need 5" of lift minimum of total lift to clear comfortably. Cheapest company to go through is probably skyjacker or rough country. Easies route is probably 4" budget boost and a 1" body. But there are many other things to consider. You will probably run into driveshaft vibrations but can solve that with a transfer case drop. You'll need to regear, id say 4.56 should work fine. A dana 44 would be ideal but if your not wheeling you may get away with the 35. Id also uprgade the brakes
4" BB!? Good luck finding one of those unless you plan on stacking two 2" pucks on top of each other.

This thread is going to get interesting...
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:56 PM   #12
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basically you'll need 5" of lift minimum of total lift to clear comfortably. Cheapest company to go through is probably skyjacker or rough country. Easies route is probably 4" budget boost and a 1" body. But there are many other things to consider. You will probably run into driveshaft vibrations but can solve that with a transfer case drop. You'll need to regear, id say 4.56 should work fine. A dana 44 would be ideal but if your not wheeling you may get away with the 35. Id also uprgade the brakes
Learn something new every day. I never new they made budget boosts in 4".
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:58 PM   #13
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Learn something new every day. I never new they made budget boosts in 4".
Never seen one, I am currently looking to see if there is such a thing...
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Old 08-26-2011, 04:58 PM   #14
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4" BB!? Good luck finding one of those unless you plan on stacking two 2" pucks on top of each other.

This thread is going to get interesting...
What did you like hit the submit button like 2 seconds before me and my fecisious remark.
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Old 08-26-2011, 05:01 PM   #15
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What did you like hit the submit button like 2 seconds before me and my fecisious remark.
Its possible.
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:17 PM   #16
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Interesting
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:27 PM   #17
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Interesting
Anyone else picking up on a theme here?

Why not...
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:29 PM   #18
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Anyone else picking up on a theme here?

Why not...
SHH! The movie's starting!
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:53 PM   #19
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4 in. BB and mall-crawlers
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Old 08-26-2011, 09:17 PM   #20
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did anybody see the "no flames please" comment? to those of you who have a serious interest in helping answer my question, the budget comment has to do with the lift itself. i do not need a long-arm, articulating, scratch-proof, carbon-fiber, rock-destroying, latest name brand rock crawling setup. i need a highway setup that will clear 35" tires. so of course i understand that i am in for several thousand dollars for this project, and that's just fine, i just don't want more lift than i need considering this will be a daily driver, on-highway vehicle. this is the first post i have made to this forum, and i have to say, i am a little surprised by the responses - i expected much better from this group considering the passion and expertise herein.
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Old 08-26-2011, 09:31 PM   #21
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Sooooooo...MetalCloak!
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Old 08-26-2011, 09:32 PM   #22
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Well probably the easiest way like said above and run metalcloak fenders for which you don't need any lift for 35s. You could also do a 2" BB or a OME lift. I would run that and spend more money on strengthening your axles even just for highway driving and also regearing and your brakes and steering will need to be strengthened too. Good luck and have fun with it!
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Old 08-26-2011, 09:40 PM   #23
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What's funny is that the "lastest rock destroying long arm kits" will ride better on the highway than a budget short arm lift. The reason why you're getting a negative response is because no one needs 35" tires to crawl the mall. It's stupid to spend that much money and since you're going for cheapness, not do it right and lose performance. If its a DD only on highway vehicle shouldn't gas mileage be a concern?
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Old 08-26-2011, 09:43 PM   #24
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Metalcloak Arched Tube fenders. They allow you to clear 35's on a stock Jeep. 700 (I think) for the front fenders and another 250 ish for the rear mounting plate, and another 500 for 6" flares all the way around.
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Old 08-26-2011, 10:00 PM   #25
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metalcloaks and re-gear. It will be surprisingly pretty decent offroad too, maybe a 2" spacer or spring setup to be safe (yet not mandatory for mall crawling)

This is just from what I've read on the forum, and metal cloaks claim to fit 35's with no lift. I'd certainly re-gear, and hope you've got a d44 rear though
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Old 08-26-2011, 10:12 PM   #26
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Here ya go man...

Jeep TJ Wrangler Suspension Lift

I would much rather lift one than cut the tub to clear tires...unless I was making a 90 percent trail, 10 percent driver
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Old 08-26-2011, 10:12 PM   #27
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okay, finally some straight answers with some useful information - thank you! invertchaos, you bring up a good point on MPG and driveability. so let me take a step back: the goal for this unit is to build something DIFFERENT. and lifted / big tires are definitely different. i am in MO, so this will be a convertible in the summer and a snow sled to work in the winter. with all that in mind, maybe 35" tires are TOO MUCH in terms of driveability, MPG, and causing other stresses on the drivetrain? so if i assume that is the case, what is a good combination i should look at for this DD? 33" instead of 35"? smaller? so i guess the new question here is, what is the "sweet spot" in terms of getting a lifted jeep, bigger tires, and a different "look" without causing all of those other problems and also just wasting money? my shop can do ring gears and pinion swaps, no problem, but i don't care to completely replace or upgrade the entire drivetrain and chassis for this project. so what is the combination of lift and tires i should be looking at, assuming 35" are impractical for DD?
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Old 08-26-2011, 10:16 PM   #28
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Metalcloak Arched Tube fenders. They allow you to clear 35's on a stock Jeep. 700 (I think) for the front fenders and another 250 ish for the rear mounting plate, and another 500 for 6" flares all the way around.
Couldn't agree more.....
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Old 08-26-2011, 10:19 PM   #29
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35s will be fine with a dd, but it will cost $$$$$ to make it ride and drive nice. A rough guess would be $5-7000 for the suspension, gears, etc.
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Old 08-26-2011, 10:48 PM   #30
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4" Rough Country with some Smittybuilt tube fenders. Leaves you $6000 for gears apparently.

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