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Old 08-24-2006, 03:47 PM   #1
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which lift to get

i have a 2000 wrangler sahara and am looking to lift it. so basically i was looking at the rough country 6 inch x series or the 4 inch. has anyone heard anything about these? what size of tires will be the biggest i will be able to use on each? and what else is required to install each lift?

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Old 08-24-2006, 05:07 PM   #2
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yeah there very good...with a 6 inch lift you could fit 35's with plenty of room and clearance and 33's with the 4 inch...but if you get the 6 inch you have to also get an sye and an extended driveshaft...and the 6 inch lift your talkin about is a short arm lift...short arms aren't very good when you lift it that high so unless your willin to spend some cash go with the 4" (best bang for the buck) and some 33's...some people clear 35's with the 4 inch but 33's would probably fit the best...unless you want 35's cause you don't go offroad or flex much

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Old 08-25-2006, 10:42 AM   #3
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I have the 4 inch rough country lift and love it. It went on easy as can be, and i haven't had a problem with it. I also put on a 3 inch body lift, and 2 inch spring spacers in the front. I run 35s and clear them with no problem at all. This guy i know has a rubi with the 4 inch kit on it, and he runs 33 MTs and he does pretty well, and he has tons of room for flex. Nice lift for the price.
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Old 08-25-2006, 02:39 PM   #4
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ok cool, thanks. around how much is the driveshaft and sye kit? and also which would be easier and better to install.
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Old 08-25-2006, 04:06 PM   #5
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i don't know if you want to go with 6 inches of suspension lift without going to a long arm so i would go with a 4 inch...and then you might not even need the sye and new driveshaft...what size tires are you lookin for? and how much lift do you wanna run? it all depends on your personal preference but if you get the 6 you could get a little "tire pick" and unstability since its not a long arm...and the driveshaft and sye are around $500 (if not more)...that price includes both of those things
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Old 04-20-2007, 09:59 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WranglerHawg View Post
I have the 4 inch rough country lift and love it. It went on easy as can be, and i haven't had a problem with it. I also put on a 3 inch body lift, and 2 inch spring spacers in the front. I run 35s and clear them with no problem at all. This guy i know has a rubi with the 4 inch kit on it, and he runs 33 MTs and he does pretty well, and he has tons of room for flex. Nice lift for the price.

a question
im new here and i dont have a jeep as yet but would really love one
im located in barbados in the caribbean and im only 16 years old

they are limited jeeps here.only like 12 if that much of them CJ, YJ TJ, Cherokee, and a little more newer models

there is a 2000 TJ on sale but i dont know yet if i can make the purchase just yet

as i hear all the time jeeps go almost anywhere so thats what make me switch from samurai to jeep

anyways i see alot of people using coil spacers in front of there jeeps

wouldnt that make one end higher then the next?
what weighs down the front of the jeep that you have to use a spacer?
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Old 04-20-2007, 10:10 AM   #7
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a spacer will raise the jeep up...thats what a Budget boost (BB) is...heavy bumpers or winch can weigh the jeep down
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Old 04-20-2007, 10:23 AM   #8
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a spacer will raise the jeep up...thats what a Budget boost (BB) is...heavy bumpers or winch can weigh the jeep down
o ok

thought it was because of the enigne

thanks for the info
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Old 04-20-2007, 10:34 PM   #9
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i don't know if you want to go with 6 inches of suspension lift without going to a long arm so i would go with a 4 inch...and then you might not even need the sye and new driveshaft...what size tires are you lookin for? and how much lift do you wanna run? it all depends on your personal preference but if you get the 6 you could get a little "tire pick" and unstability since its not a long arm...and the driveshaft and sye are around $500 (if not more)...that price includes both of those things
Not to be disrespectful or anything but i dont think thats true. I run the the rough country lift basic 4", with the 2.25 spacers and it feels exactly the same. didnt need the SYE or custom drive shaft or anything to make it work except for the motor mount lift, wich took care of the vibrations. Which is 60 dollars.
I say if u want that much lift, without spending the money for a long arm, then get the spacers. I think wrangerhog is running the same setup as me. I drive my jeep everyday with NO Vibrations at all. With no Sye. And it flexes like a dream. extremely pleased with the ride quality
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Old 04-20-2007, 11:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upinar View Post
Not to be disrespectful or anything but i dont think thats true.
It's true.
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Old 04-20-2007, 11:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bim-wheeler View Post
anyways i see alot of people using coil spacers in front of there jeeps

wouldnt that make one end higher then the next?
what weighs down the front of the jeep that you have to use a spacer?
Well, if their springs are older, Jeeps weigh more in the front (engine) and this can cause some sag. Replacing the springs would be a better fix.
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2000 TJ Sport 4.0L
2002 WJ Sport 4.7L

Buncha junk I've spent hard earned money on.


Sorry I couldn't resist. It's the third grader in me coming out

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...chris/logo.jpg
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Old 04-21-2007, 12:13 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by binaryking View Post
It's true.
Well, not all jeeps are the same, maybe my setup wont feel the same on other jeeps. My friend has a 4inch lift with tranny drop and vibrates like crazy unlike mine when i had just the 4inches without the spacers. Im just trying to give advice based on PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, not based on what ive heard or read about
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boosted inline 6 50. trim turbo
40" super swamper boggers
high pinion d44 front trussed
ford 8.8 rear axle conversion
se 9500 milemarker winch
locked front and rear
rough country steering stabilizers
clayton long arm
3inch body lift
2 coil spacer lift
eagle alloys 15's
on-board air system
kc daylighters 100w long range
rocker guards
rhino liner
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Old 04-21-2007, 07:41 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upinar View Post
Well, not all jeeps are the same, maybe my setup wont feel the same on other jeeps. My friend has a 4inch lift with tranny drop and vibrates like crazy unlike mine when i had just the 4inches without the spacers. Im just trying to give advice based on PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, not based on what ive heard or read about
It's still true.
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2000 TJ Sport 4.0L
2002 WJ Sport 4.7L

Buncha junk I've spent hard earned money on.


Sorry I couldn't resist. It's the third grader in me coming out

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...chris/logo.jpg
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Old 04-21-2007, 12:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by binaryking View Post
It's still true.
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boosted inline 6 50. trim turbo
40" super swamper boggers
high pinion d44 front trussed
ford 8.8 rear axle conversion
se 9500 milemarker winch
locked front and rear
rough country steering stabilizers
clayton long arm
3inch body lift
2 coil spacer lift
eagle alloys 15's
on-board air system
kc daylighters 100w long range
rocker guards
rhino liner
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Old 04-21-2007, 12:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upinar View Post
Not to be disrespectful or anything but i dont think thats true. I run the the rough country lift basic 4", with the 2.25 spacers and it feels exactly the same. didnt need the SYE or custom drive shaft or anything to make it work except for the motor mount lift, wich took care of the vibrations. Which is 60 dollars.
I say if u want that much lift, without spending the money for a long arm, then get the spacers. I think wrangerhog is running the same setup as me. I drive my jeep everyday with NO Vibrations at all. With no Sye. And it flexes like a dream. extremely pleased with the ride quality
What you don't realize is that with your 4" suspension lift plus 2.25" spacers equaling 6.25" of lift, your OE driveshaft is now WAY too short and in serious danger of being pulled off the splined t-case output shaft.

ANY time a SWB TJ is lifted over 4", a SYE kit and longer CV driveshaft should be installed. It's not what you can get away with, it's called building it right so bad stuff doesn't happen to you (which then creates a problem for everyone with your) while out on the trail.
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Old 04-21-2007, 07:24 PM   #16
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ive put my jeep through some pretty intense obstacles. People call me crazy the way i treat it cause its my daily driver. Never had a problem the drive shaft. Actually, the driveshaft is not even close to slipping out of the spline. Its actually the same as when it was stock. And the 8.8 conversion,on the new axle, the yoke comes further out to opposed to the dana 35. so I guess that helps with the problem that im supposed to have with my driveshaft length. If u dont believe me, ill post pics of it, just let me know.
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boosted inline 6 50. trim turbo
40" super swamper boggers
high pinion d44 front trussed
ford 8.8 rear axle conversion
se 9500 milemarker winch
locked front and rear
rough country steering stabilizers
clayton long arm
3inch body lift
2 coil spacer lift
eagle alloys 15's
on-board air system
kc daylighters 100w long range
rocker guards
rhino liner
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Old 04-21-2007, 07:42 PM   #17
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The 8.8 must be the reason then because at your height with the Dana 35c or Dana 44 axles, the OE driveshaft is simply too short.
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Old 04-21-2007, 07:59 PM   #18
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the 8.8 swap probally did help with that, but i just installed this axle about 2 weeks ago. and never had i problem with the drive shaft with the d35. Maybe my jeep is just messed up, i guess in a good way.
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boosted inline 6 50. trim turbo
40" super swamper boggers
high pinion d44 front trussed
ford 8.8 rear axle conversion
se 9500 milemarker winch
locked front and rear
rough country steering stabilizers
clayton long arm
3inch body lift
2 coil spacer lift
eagle alloys 15's
on-board air system
kc daylighters 100w long range
rocker guards
rhino liner
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Old 04-21-2007, 08:32 PM   #19
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I think I have figured it out... with that much excessive lift and not having long control arms, your short control arms are at such a steep angle that they have shortened the wheelbase. If your Jeep was set up properly, your driveshaft would be too short.
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Old 04-21-2007, 09:40 PM   #20
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u are absolutely correct. My control arms are at a steep angle, i know this and i realized that when i put the spacers back in. But since the ride quality was the same, and flexes the same, i kept them in. Yes, my wheelbase is shorter, and that is the exact reason i dont have driveshaft problems. Until something doesnt feel right, i will keep them in. Having this setup works perfectly for me. Smooth ride and vibration free, and no little noises when moving off and riding down the road. I dont think theres anything wrong with my setup, i am at no risk of anything breaking or something nonfunctioning cause of my short arms or stock drive shaft. But yes, u are correct. u know ur stuff. I think the topic of this thread has changed
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boosted inline 6 50. trim turbo
40" super swamper boggers
high pinion d44 front trussed
ford 8.8 rear axle conversion
se 9500 milemarker winch
locked front and rear
rough country steering stabilizers
clayton long arm
3inch body lift
2 coil spacer lift
eagle alloys 15's
on-board air system
kc daylighters 100w long range
rocker guards
rhino liner
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Old 04-21-2007, 10:08 PM   #21
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but keeping your short arms in with that tall of a lift and being that steep, something is going to break... and I'm sure its not good for either of your trac bars.

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