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Old 06-06-2011, 09:25 PM   #1
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Why do drain plug holes have opening to body?

Why is there an opening to the inside of my jeep inside my plug holes. I assumed that the holes would just go through to the outside of my jeep. but there is the 1inch or so of empty space and then the metal hole again. It seems to me that water would fill in this gap and no be able to escape, because there is an edge around it. wouldnt this be bad, to let water sit inside of the jeep? it would eventually cause rust would it not? I am just wondering if I am missing a piece that fits in that gap. If not I plan to make my own.

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Old 06-06-2011, 09:28 PM   #2
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I've pondered this as well...poor design.

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Old 06-06-2011, 09:31 PM   #3
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uhhhh? it should go all the way through
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:33 PM   #4
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Its like double walled steel with an inch or so gap in the middle.
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:47 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by KBR97 View Post
Its like double walled steel with an inch or so gap in the middle.
exactly. I was thinking ill just measure it and see if a piece of PVC or some type of rubber tubing will fit, cut a piece and use epoxy to seal it in place. Im laying down the plan phase of my bedlining and this has me going
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBR97 View Post
I've pondered this as well...poor design.
LOL, I was washing the jeep out last week and looked at them and said "damn, thats a piss poor design"
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:56 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Scoob View Post
LOL, I was washing the jeep out last week and looked at them and said "damn, thats a piss poor design"
So, im not missing anything?

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Old 06-06-2011, 09:59 PM   #8
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Besides the reasoning behind having this stupid gap in the metal...no, lol.
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:02 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by KBR97 View Post
Besides the reasoning behind having this stupid gap in the metal...no, lol.

Does anyone have that?

okay well time to do some creative DIY work wooheeeee my favorite
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:00 AM   #10
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Bad design.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:52 AM   #11
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Am I just stupid? Ok, don't answer that! Seems to me that those holes that don't look like they are going anywhere, are probably really being channeled to the holes that do go all the way through..... At least that's the only thing that made sense to me, and really, would you want the entire underside of the tub to have as many holes as the inside does? I don't. And I'm sure some of it was weight/cost saving.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:55 AM   #12
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my tj floors were getting a little crunchy, so i POR'd them and 'glassed the holes shut. i ended up leaving one drain hole on each side open, just need to get the new rubber grommets for them.

It is a piss poor design though....
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Old 06-07-2011, 09:07 AM   #13
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I only have 4 to my knownledge actually. and the entire underbody has been PORd except the stuff I have added in the last year which isnt much.

Inferno, the holes go striaght through. its like a hole, then empty space into an opening inside the tub, then another hole. I can see straight through. but it just seems senseless. Ill go grab a pic or two.
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:01 AM   #14
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This is an intentional offset to keep blow back from coming inside the jeep and wetting carpet from underneath (yes they were intended to have carpet...). The drain holes that aren't like this are in a possition where it has a minimal effect.

In the end I think the idea was you would have moldy capret before rust in that one place...
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:08 AM   #15
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butttt, they could have done that so much easier and more effective. just run a slant on way on the top piece one the other way on the bottom. it would allow to drain but would prevent the blow back. now ill have moldy carpet AND rust ;(
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:08 AM   #16
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Couple of reasons for it. One being crashes. It's designed to fold up in a certain sequence and amount to absorb the impact vs transferring it. Open chamber vs solid construction.
If the lower metal in the tub was welded directly to the upper part, it becomes very strong. And will not collapse as quickly as the box design does. It also contributes to the ride. It can give and flex more so then a ridged double sided panel.

As for water intrusion, well it's a double sided sword. Weld two panels together and then drill a big old hole in em. If the bonehead applying a sealer between the panels isn't paying attention (like the twit who did ours*) water will seep between the panels and rust will eat away from the inside. You won't see it till you put your foot through the floor.

Open box design, allows the water to flow away from the top panel to the bottom. where the engineers figured adding some additional holes in the lower panel will allow the water to drain, and air to get up in there. All fine in a perfect world. Jeeps don't live in a perfect world. Those holes for drains and air flow also allow mud and such to climb up in. Said mud can trap pockets of water, sure eventually they may dry out, but until they do rust can have a jolly good time inside.

All you can do is be a little observant when you clean out your jeep. Take the time to get dirty and take a hose to the underside, hitting all those spots. You should have seen all the crap I flushed out of the frame on ours that was just laying in there.
And it was a jeep I really doubt ever saw off road. Just normal highway silt/sand that got collected after a decade of use.


* As for the twit on the assembly line. On ours I pulled the cowl to install the lamps and reseal the fresh air inlet. Anyone who's had one off can see the top half of the cowl is spot welded to the center section. After such a bead of sealer is to be applied to the joint at the flange. Well said twit had a bad day on ours. Laid down a perfect bead. Only it was a 1/2" away from the flange seam. Nope he laid his bead where the flange made the 90 degree turn upwards. Not one drop of sealer on the seam. Well lucky somewhat it never saw salt, so it wasn't too bad. Little wire brush work, some rust eliminator, and a proper application of seam sealer got that handled.
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:42 AM   #17
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so there are holes in the metal piece on the bottom, letting any water that gets into the space between the two sheets drain out?

see I was lookin at this all last night at 10 in the dark with a small led flashlight on my keychain so, it was a bit limited.
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:06 AM   #18
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Yep, I just went out and looked. I counted 5 holes in the front boxed section of the tub bottom on each side alone. Only one sits below the drain plug on the top panel.
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:29 AM   #19
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I was gona go out but it started to rain and I am a bit frustrated with her at the momment. I may venture out now.
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:50 AM   #20
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My wife's TJ never had been offroad, and the previous owner never washed it (school teacher's daily driver)...needless to say, the inner panel in the floor (the driver side interior floor) had rusted through before the lower panel. It was packed with sand and road salt...nice rust sandwich filling between the panels. Make sure you clean with a pressure washer or high pressure hose/airgun in between the 2 panels OFTEN. I had to patch the floor with a piece of 16 gauge sheet metal and used panel adhesive to bond it to the floor along with some rivets. Good to go for the last 2 years (knock on wood)
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:05 PM   #21
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When I took my carpet out last summer I found my passneger side plug was rusted. I found it was just the top metal and not the bottom. I filled into the hole edges with fiberglass to seal it off and not get any salt and stuff inside it. Then when that dried I took a plastic and formed it to the diameter of the hole. I then fibergalssed around the plastic. Did a litter sanding to make it neat and the put the plug back in.
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:41 PM   #22
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It's always a compromise when they build a vehicle. Sure a rubber plug doesn't rust, but the gap/seam in it can trap stuff itself.

But look at the somewhat bright side. The rubber plug beats the bajeezus out of the old metal figure 8 drain on the CJ's. Those things welded themselves in place.

And I guess maybe too, Chrysler being cheap didn't help. Why in the world they don't use a galvanic process on the sheet metal is pitiful.
I retired form the collision business, and any Chrysler product we got in would be showing rust just days after the hit, anywhere the metal was exposed. My Colorado, which is used as intended as a truck, has gouges,scrapes, nicks, and chips through the paint and into the metal in the bed. Not a rust spot to be seen. And that's after 5 years of PA salt in the winter. GM treats their metal for corrosion.
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:08 PM   #23
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yea shelby one thing I hate is the metal and rust on my jeep. gahhhh but its alright I supposed. Ill get it all taken care of one day. kinda of daunting for a 17 year old with limited funds though! haha. welll thanks for all the good info and dutch that is good work!
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Old 06-08-2011, 01:27 PM   #24
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Ok, I'm getting ready to rhino line my jeep, I could only get the 2 round plugs out in the front I was afraid of damaging the oblong ones. Are they supposed to be near impossible to remove? I guess I'd better tape over them before I line it.??????
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Old 06-08-2011, 01:34 PM   #25
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You only need to remove the rubber plugs....
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Old 06-08-2011, 02:04 PM   #26
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THX dont want more work than this already is! jj

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