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Old 05-16-2011, 02:00 PM   #1
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Will this be enough to scruff up my bed lining?

Or is it overkill?


People say they used scotch bright pads, but aren't those just the green ones used for cleaning dishes? I imagine that wire brush that hooks up to the drill will buff the paint right off? It'll be good for the chunky rust though!

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Old 05-16-2011, 02:09 PM   #2
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thats a good start, but I'd also have an 4.5" angle grinder with wire cone + fine grit flap disc handy:


careful with the wire cone though, they tend to throw wire bristles everywhere...just rev it easy and keep the rpms low. make sure to wear welding gloves and thick jeans. it will make short work of paint & rust though...well worth it.

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Old 05-16-2011, 02:13 PM   #3
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Thanks for the quick reply, gearing up and heading to the garage now!
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Old 05-16-2011, 02:23 PM   #4
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And safety glasses!!!!
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Old 05-16-2011, 02:24 PM   #5
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Just remember Bedliner material will not stick clear coat so get it off and then clean the area really good. Also cover up your dash or. Any spots you don't want dust to get in before you start sanding
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Old 05-16-2011, 03:00 PM   #6
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Kate, glasses are right by the drill, and are still being worn
Pipp: This is just 10 mins in, got the shop vac standing by, so far so good. This is taken from the passengers side door looking in.


Bad news though folks. I went to take out my seat braces for the back seat aaaaand, womp womp, broke both the bolts . What now? A little pissed at this point, prep is really the hardest part. This is the right side, looking through the back:
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Old 05-16-2011, 03:12 PM   #7
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This happened to me also, get a drill and bore out the bolt from the top side, stepping up in size with the bit. Be careful not to drill the threads in the tub, you should be able to get a pair of vise grips and spin the bolt out from the bottom. GOOD LUCK!
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Old 05-16-2011, 04:48 PM   #8
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GrassKicker, what do you mean by "bore out the bolt?" If you take it a step up with a drill size? Are you talking about essentially pushing it out from the top and then vice grips grabbing from the bottom?
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Old 05-16-2011, 04:54 PM   #9
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hey the same thing happened to me lol still havent fixed it
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Old 05-16-2011, 04:56 PM   #10
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No you are drilling into the bolt from the top, upping the drill size so it thins the bolt shank down from the inside. Get close to where the threaded portion of the diameter is.

Then grab em and turn em out from the bottom. Drilling em out allows them to collapse slightly so they come out easier.

Coat the bolts with anti-seize when you reinstall em, will make the next time easier.
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Old 05-16-2011, 05:34 PM   #11
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When I do put everything back in, I'm going to put not only new bolts, but will SOAK everything in anti-seize. This ordeal has been a PITA. Any clue what the drill size up is that I should use? Also, I took a look underneath, and I'm not seeing where they come out at the bottom, looks like maybe there is a cover for something I might have to remove first. Just did the other side, nervously. Took a little tugging, but got it out fine <sigh.>
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Old 05-16-2011, 09:43 PM   #12
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If you haven't already got it out, be careful on the drivers side. Your fuel line is real close to the underside of the bolt. Have someone watching while you drill from the top side. It is a PITA, but that is the only way I could get the broken bolt out when mine broke.
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Old 05-16-2011, 09:48 PM   #13
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Not out yet, but boy is it giving me a headache. Did a little research, and found out about "easy outs," which is essentially a bolt extraction kit. Drill into the bolt, hammer in the "easy out" twist counter clockwise, and allegedly, ta-da.

I can't get past the trying to drill into the bolt to start the hole with, already cracked two drill bits. Done for tonight.

Something tells me I'm taking the prep work to the extreme by actually sanding the paint off.
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:05 PM   #14
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Yeah, I broke a couple of drill bits myself. Keep spraying lubricant while drilling, it took me and a friend about an hour to drill out the bolt and get the bolt out from the bottom. I took a bolt that came out and bought all new ones that matched thread and length. Don't give up, Drink another BEER, analyze the situation and jump in!!
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Old 05-17-2011, 09:41 AM   #15
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thats a good start, but I'd also have an 4.5" angle grinder with wire cone + fine grit flap disc handy:


careful with the wire cone though, they tend to throw wire bristles everywhere...just rev it easy and keep the rpms low. make sure to wear welding gloves and thick jeans. it will make short work of paint & rust though...well worth it.
Woah. Yesterday I burned up my chicago 4-1/2" grinder. Just like that one, lol!
When it starts to get hot, let it cool down. TRUST ME!

And yes, definitely wear eye protection. I was too lazy to look for them one time. That night when I took out my contacts, one was full of metal bits.
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:03 AM   #16
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Woah. Yesterday I burned up my chicago 4-1/2" grinder. Just like that one, lol!
When it starts to get hot, let it cool down. TRUST ME!

And yes, definitely wear eye protection. I was too lazy to look for them one time. That night when I took out my contacts, one was full of metal bits.
I've burned through two of those so far... and you can also get smaller wire wheels that will fit on a 3/8" drill. easier to use, lighter, and they also have synthetic ones that are like a brillo bad on steroids.
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:23 AM   #17
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Kate, glasses are right by the drill, and are still being worn
Pipp: This is just 10 mins in, got the shop vac standing by, so far so good. This is taken from the passengers side door looking in.


Bad news though folks. I went to take out my seat braces for the back seat aaaaand, womp womp, broke both the bolts . What now? A little pissed at this point, prep is really the hardest part. This is the right side, looking through the back:
Those just happen top be the bolts from hell!!!! You can see what I had to do to mine at the bottom of this thread: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/need-help-86395.html

-Wes
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Old 05-17-2011, 09:53 PM   #18
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Not a thing has changed. Drove the Jeep to work, back home tonight, don't even want to begin to tackle this problem. I've been looking around, some suggest welding a washer and a nut to the top. Only problem with that one is, I don't have a welder, nor can I weld. Also, I read somewhere that cutting into the bolt with a dremel from the top allows you to use a flathead to drill it out... this seems like it might be a good solution?

I'm halfway temped to call around to body shops and see what they'll charge me to pull em' out, in these situations, I tend to do more damage...

Edit: The bolts did not break off clean, they are very jagged, and hard to drill into.
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:10 PM   #19
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Edit: The bolts did not break off clean, they are very jagged, and hard to drill into.
go to an ACE hardware:
get a center punch.
find the oldest, most knowledgable guy there....have him show you what an Easy-Out is, and what drill bit you need to use it.
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:24 PM   #20
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Thanks UnlimitedLJ04. I bought the easy out kit. Ended up breaking two different bits, but like grasskicker said, just gotta get back in there and keep trying (with a beer or two.) I think a center punch would most certainly help get me started, and probably so would the oldest most knowledgeable guy at an ACE hardware!

Tomorrow is the day off, so I plan on waking up in 6 hours, go fishing, and then tackle the bolts. Unfortunately, I don't think it's going to be easy, even with "easy-outs."
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:30 PM   #21
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Thanks UnlimitedLJ04. I bought the easy out kit. Ended up breaking two different bits, but like grasskicker said, just gotta get back in there and keep trying (with a beer or two.) I think a center punch would most certainly help get me started, and probably so would the oldest most knowledgeable guy at an ACE hardware!

Tomorrow is the day off, so I plan on waking up in 6 hours, go fishing, and then tackle the bolts. Unfortunately, I don't think it's going to be easy, even with "easy-outs."
those bolts are grade8/class 10.9, so drilling them is going to suck. make sure you use lots of lubrication. start with a small 1/16" bit, and peck drill...drill for 10 seconds, soak in lubricant, cool for 10 seconds, drill for 10 seconds, soak in lubricant, cool for 10 seconds...etc. once you bore your way through with the small bit, follow up with the bigger bit.

you can use cobalt steel bits, they resist overheating much better, but they are more brittle (and extremely hard). you can also use black oxide or TiN bits. i'd say just go with a good sharp 118° point angle black oxide bit...like a milwaukee brand, with lots of lube & good center punch.
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:55 PM   #22
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I used several different styles of easy outs on my bolts, all of premium quality! Center punch, drill, and tap those suckers out to the next SAE thread!!! I'm glad to be done with those!

-Wes
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Old 05-20-2011, 08:34 PM   #23
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Still banking on easy outs. Getting ready to see if I can even get a drill bit down in there. Got a center punch and a lefty drill kit today. Will keep everybody informed.
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Old 05-20-2011, 10:35 PM   #24
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happened to me to brother just drill it out and use a nut and washer
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:10 PM   #25
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I hand sanded my interior when I bedlined mine. All you need to do is take the clear coat off noting else. MEK to clean it.
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:21 PM   #26
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Hope the easy outs work for you-I have always had good luck with those. As everyone has mentioned-use lots of lube and take your time. Maybe overkill to get bare metal before coating-but no "hidden rust" at that point.

GOOD LUCK!!
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:27 PM   #27
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Drill drill drill. Then drill some more. Good luck
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:22 AM   #28
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I was at work when I lined my tub. I took one of those brackets out and out of fear of breaking a bolt, I taped the remaining ones off. You really can't tell the difference. I had to pick my daughter up when I got off shift so I didn't want to risk breaking any...

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