The Delta brackets are about 3x more expensive than they need to be.
I installed a set of the black Rugged Ridge brackets for someone a few months ago. At least one of the holes on each bracket did not line up with the windshield frame. He ended up sending them back and ordering the KC brackets.
I have installed KC brackets on all 3 of my TJs and have not had an issue with any of them.
As long as there is no bare metal exposed, you should never see any rust.
I smacked the $hit out of a tree limb and it hit my KC light/bracket then my windshield/frame. My windshield broke and the frame crumpled like paper while the KC light and bracket went unscathed...crazy. All it did was rip the wires out the back of it.
01 TJ Sahara 4.0 Auto
35s, 4.56s, D35/44, Locked, Lifted,
Dented, Scratched, Broke Windshield,
Warn M8000, 12voltguy, KC's
2 much crap/mods to list
I bought the Olympic 4x4 ones because I liked how small and low profile they were. Even though they're small they're tough. They're made from 3/16 steel I'm pretty sure. I haven't measured to confirm it though.
04 Sport with 3" Savvy Front Springs, 2" Rear BDS Springs, 1.25" BL, 1" MML, 33" Cooper STT's, Currie TJJ Front Track Bar, RE Quick Discos, and other junk.
I have the cheapie rugged ridge ones (bought second hand) and they work just fine. No alignment issues. Granted, I may have to flip them around and bottom mount them now that my overhead lightbar just came in from CARR
Denis A. Baldwin
1991 YJ 2.5L, 1" BD MML, 14 Bolt Rear, Dana 60 Front, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Lockers, 37ss, Cherokee Offset Springs (10" front to back stretch total), Bilstein 5150s, 1in. BL, custom cage, Warn M8000, Double D Dash/OHC, 4Low Front Stinger Bumper, DirtWorx Rear Bumper WTC, Tube Fenders, Comp Cut, 1 Ton HD Kingpin High Steering and PAID FOR.
I had to buy the Rugged Ridge mounts over the KC mounts (P.O. relocated the mirrors off the doors to the side of the windshield and stripped the bolt putting them on. They are gonna be there forever now). The Rugged Ridge ones lined up fine, but the bolts were incorrect. The original bolts were not long enough to re-use so I had to make a hardware store trip.
Since then they have been just fine a-okay. x2 on making sure you can unscrew the original bolts first before purchasing.
They're expensive but I got the Warrior Products mirror and light combo bracket. I don't have them on yet but they look like they will line up perfectly and will be handy for the warmer weather when I get doors off.
Westbrook- please post a pic on this thread once you install those on your jeep. You and I have similar jeeps, and I would love to see it on, before I too pull the trigger on it. I understood that the warrior mirror light combo bracket was not comparable to our stock mirrors? Are you planning on geeting new mirrors too?
I used to have the Rugged Ridge mounts - I like that the mounting holes are slotted so you can have a bit of fore/aft movement when mounting the lights - which is needed (depending on the size of the lights) to clear the hood when it's leaned back on the windshield.
EDIT - My avatar pic is with the RR mounts.
Currently running the Warrior Products mounts. These mount lower but stick out wider - I'm sure the reason for this is so the hood can be leaned back on the windshield.
No problems with the mirrors (unless you remove the check straps from the doors).
I haven't tried the Delta mounts.
I can't imagine there would be enough space to run a full size 6" Daylighter and still have room to lean the hood back on the windshield, but if I was going to mount something smaller there (Like a 4" light) I think they would be perfect.
Nice and low and not too wide.
I think my jeep has been painted. The bolts look painted to the windshield bracket, "kind-of" and they will not budge. I feel the Torx driver will break.
I have a #30 Torx driver and it seems loose. I bought replacement bolts to match the Kc mount. I'm thinking on taking the jeep to a auto body shop and have them mount them. . . Thoughts? I feel like bailing on this project
You will need Torx #40 for those bolts - The paint will make it harder to get the Torx in correctly but make sure they are seated correctly BEFORE you start turning them - you don't want to strip those bolts.
Seat the T40 correctly, get right over it with a lot of pressure and make sure it doesn't slip.
An impact driver works well. On two of my six bolts, they just wouldn't budge and stripped the heads. I took my Jeep to a local body shop and they got them off in just a few minutes, but using a air operated impact chisel. Drilled a small hole on the bolt head near the edge for the chisel to get a bite into and they were turning in no time. I also did this with my roll bar bolts when installing my tire carrier. I replaced those with grade 8 hex bolts. Now I own an air chisel.