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Old 05-15-2013, 07:54 AM   #1
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Wiring a sub to an aftermarket head unit

Yesterday I installed my new pioneer radio. I had the necessary harnesses to connect the two original cables into the one power cable that goes into the head unit. Everything powers up and sounds good. I'm in a 2001 wrangler Sahara so I have a subwoofer under the console. The issue is that when I wired everything up, there was no wiring option for the sub. I took out the console so I could look at the wires going to the sub box. They included a brown wire with blue, a brown wire with yellow, a black wire with white, a black wire with red, a blue wire with white, and a blue wire with pink.

Note: On the harnesses in the back, I didn't wire anything to the brown wire from the head unit because there was no matching wire from the Chrysler adapter harnesses. I'm thinking maybe this is the solution, but I have no clue.

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Old 05-15-2013, 08:02 AM   #2
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did you use a wiring harness? the console sub works through the normal speaker wiring, there are no additional things to wire up. if the speakers all work, the sub should work. play with the settings in the head unit to increase bass to verify its working.

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Old 05-15-2013, 08:46 AM   #3
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You need to get a test light and probe the connector at the sub end to confirm the amp is getting power. There usually are to power sources in order for the amp to work. One wire is a switched ignition 12V which in your case is probably the Black/Red wire and the other wire is a constant 12V.(light green wire ?) The red/black is usually hooked to the radio's remote antenna wire. What is the brown wire from the Pioneer radio marked for? Like UnlimitedLJ04 has stated, if you wired everything to the factory harness then the amp is working and all speakers should be on. Can you hear or feel your sub working ?
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:16 AM   #4
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As indicated above, the stock amp/sub is wired for speaker level input through the stock harness. There should be a blue wire from your head unit that you have to make sure is conected to the factory harness. It is the trigger for the amp to turn on when the head unit is on.
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:27 AM   #5
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So where would the blue wire go?
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:17 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Neil F. View Post
As indicated above, the stock amp/sub is wired for speaker level input through the stock harness. There should be a blue wire from your head unit that you have to make sure is conected to the factory harness. It is the trigger for the amp to turn on when the head unit is on.
There is a blue wire that was left unconnected. Where does this blue where go in order to power the sub? Pardon me, I'm quite the rookie to this
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:30 PM   #7
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There should be a blue wire on the Chrysler adaptor
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:45 PM   #8
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There should be a blue wire on the Chrysler adaptor
That is the blue wire I'm talking about. It's behind the head unit. Where do I connect that wire?
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Old 05-15-2013, 02:27 PM   #9
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Blue to blue. There is a blue out of the head unit and there SHOULD be a blue on the adaptor harness. Connect those together.
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Old 05-15-2013, 02:53 PM   #10
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Blue to blue. There is a blue out of the head unit and there SHOULD be a blue on the adaptor harness. Connect those together.
That's my issue. If it was that simple I would've had it already. There is a blue coming out if the adapters labeled "power antenna." There's a blue and white wire labeled "remote control" coming from the power harness for the head unit itself.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:56 PM   #11
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I went for it and connected the blue wire and the blue/white wire and it worked
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:50 PM   #12
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The power antenna wire works but you wanted the remote wire. Doesn't matter either way. If u truly want a good stereo, get away from stock amp. What sub are you running, still stock?
My remote wire has a heat shrink that says remote and it's factory
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:23 PM   #13
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The power antenna wire works but you wanted the remote wire. Doesn't matter either way. If u truly want a good stereo, get away from stock amp. What sub are you running, still stock?
My remote wire has a heat shrink that says remote and it's factory
I have a kicker CompVT 65 4 ohm sub in the factory enclosure. I need to get an amp soon though anyways because the stock amp is 2 ohms. I just want to avoid paying currently. Do you have a suggested amp?
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:26 PM   #14
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My stereo guy told me if stock sub is wired in with aftermarket HU You have no fader control.Meaning no separation front to back.Sub is in center so it made sense to me.Stock sub sucks with top down.Solution 2 amps under rear seat.1 AMP feeds two 10'' kickers in trunk box (no trunk) 2nd amp feeds updated kickers in soundbar and dash.You need power and $$$ for top down tunes.Just my 2 pennies.I was their
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:35 PM   #15
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The power antenna wire works but you wanted the remote wire. Doesn't matter either way. If u truly want a good stereo, get away from stock amp. What sub are you running, still stock?
My remote wire has a heat shrink that says remote and it's factory
Antenna and remote are the same exact things. It's simply a wire that is energized when the head unit is turned on. From what I've seen usually head units with pre amp outputs label it antenna and/or remote and those without pre amp outputs label it just antenna.
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:27 PM   #16
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Antenna and remote are the same exact things. It's simply a wire that is energized when the head unit is turned on. From what I've seen usually head units with pre amp outputs label it antenna and/or remote and those without pre amp outputs label it just antenna.
Depends on the deck.
The Sony I have had both power antenna wire and a remote wire. Difference being antenna wire only gets power when the radio is on.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:00 AM   #17
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Had the same problem hooking up my Sony HU a while back. Didn't hook up that remote trigger wire and neither the sub or the rear speakers worked.

Spliced the remote wire to the "power ant" wire and everything worked as it should.

I am planning on an aftermarket amp and speakers one day myself when I can come up with a good way to hide them and get some cash.

Like Dale said, you want any kind of decent audio with the top down you need some power. Doesn't have to be a crazy expensive setup, but the factory amp and that POS sub chrysler put in there just isn't going to cut it. I just disconnected my sub because it was blown anyway and I didn't feel like listening to it rattle anymore.
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:53 AM   #18
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Antenna and remote are the same exact things. It's simply a wire that is energized when the head unit is turned on. From what I've seen usually head units with pre amp outputs label it antenna and/or remote and those without pre amp outputs label it just antenna.
They work the same but there should be a remote line and a power antenna line. Aftermarket receivers will have both. I have installed many head units and just installed a new alpine in my car two weeks ago and I had both. I used the remote but could have used the power antenna as our jeeps don't have them
A good class d amplifier would be your best bet. They are efficient and small. Rockford fosgate or alpine would be a good place to start. I would stay away from the lower end amps like boss and Kenwood. Kenwood makes great receivers but not the best amps.
Find you an amp that's power output matches the rms of your sub.
A good place for your amp is under the dash or under the back seat. I ran wires under the little bend off the body next to drivers seat then ran wires under carpet from next to seat belt to the back seat.I have a bed lined tub up front but have carpet in the back.
I'm currently running a jl audio 10w3 w alpine 500 watt class d amp. I had a jl 500 watt mono block but they run a little hot to have under the seat. I also have a Rockford fosgate p3 but only run one sub at a time. All boxes are downward firing

Is your sub a dual voice coil or single? I prefer dvc due to flexibility in wiring
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:16 PM   #19
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I haven't used the stock sub, how big are they? How do they sound?
If in the console, I would think they don't sound that great. Not much room there.
Dale is right on. He runs one more sub than I do but has very similar setup. If u want clear and loud, need class d amp for sub and downward firing box behind the seat and a second amp would be nice for running the other four speakers





Each box has one sub
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:37 PM   #20
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^^^like crap.


Replaced the OEM 6.5" console sub with a Kicker 6.5", polyfilled it and running a mono RF amp to it. Has plenty of bass for my liking. Dont need the slamming 10s &12s at my age.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:48 PM   #21
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^^^like crap.


Replaced the OEM 6.5" console sub with a Kicker 6.5", polyfilled it and running a mono RF amp to it. Has plenty of bass for my liking. Dont need the slamming 10s &12s at my age.
I hear ya. While your setup is adequate for you, I feel it wouldn't be enough for me, we are all different and have different tastes.
I'm 30 but love that I can drowned out all road noise and traffic while on the highway or just driving the busy roads here in fort worth and Dallas. I listen to rock, country and rap and love to blast it.
So, the console sub is a 6.5. That's tiny but I bet your upgrades made a world of difference in sound quality. I'm not knocking your setup, it probably sounds great for what it is, especially with the RF amp. They make excellent amps. Which model kicker are you running?
Does the stock sub really suck that bad? My stock sub in Tahoe wasn't to bad but it blew after two years of use. It wasn't that great either though
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Old 05-16-2013, 02:19 PM   #22
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I hear ya. While your setup is adequate for you, I feel it wouldn't be enough for me, we are all different and have different tastes.
I'm 30 but love that I can drowned out all road noise and traffic while on the highway or just driving the busy roads here in fort worth and Dallas. I listen to rock, country and rap and love to blast it.
So, the console sub is a 6.5. That's tiny but I bet your upgrades made a world of difference in sound quality. I'm not knocking your setup, it probably sounds great for what it is, especially with the RF amp. They make excellent amps. Which model kicker are you running?
Does the stock sub really suck that bad? My stock sub in Tahoe wasn't to bad but it blew after two years of use. It wasn't that great either though
Im 33, but btwn the 4ch RF amp pushing 75rms to the 4 speakers and mono amp pushing 150rms to the Kicker 10cvt652, I listen to my music loud and to a point that most others when they get into my jeep bothers them. I ride around with my top off for the last month. Sure it doesnt hit as hard as a 10 or 12 but I actually have the setting on my stereo turned down because I dont want it overpowring things.

And yes this oem sub in the jeeps has nothing on the stock one I had in my Denali and not even close to the stock one in my Rover.

Here are the amps...
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Old 05-16-2013, 05:44 PM   #23
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Sweet little set-up.
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:19 PM   #24
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I don't know about the newer kenwoods. But I had an older one in my last truck pushing 2 10"s. I had no problems with that thing. It provided enough juice to push the 2 subs and it never broke.

I would agree on using separate amps though. A class D for the sub, and another to run your other speakers. As long as you can keep the low, high, mid freq's on the speakers they belong on, your speakers last longer and they sound better.

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