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Wiring Sub/Amp and 2 Extra Speakers

13K views 28 replies 8 participants last post by  TJe0454 
#1 ·
I was thinking about getting these things and I have absolutely nooo idea how to wire them into the system. My brother will help me, but I was just wondering if there were any good write-ups or links out there that are helpful and basic. Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Best way to do it would be to get an amp, and run speakers from that. I guess you COULD splice them off of the current speakers, but it will lower the power of both and puts more strain on your head unit. If you get an amp, mount it under the drivers seat, under the rear seat, or behind the rear seat. I mounted mine inside the little tuffy box behind the rear seat. With an amp you will have proper power to the speakers, and they arent that much money. I got a used one from my friend for $40 and its 600 watts and dual imputs :D As for the speakers themselves, you can get speakers made to attach to the roll bar, or build boxes for them. Best of luck! Im looking to do the same thing, because i have a subwoofer on my amp, and might take it out for 2-4 more speakers
 
#8 ·
i don't have a sub in my 2000 and id like to add one. i already have and alpine head unit, do i need an amp to run a sub??
 
#7 ·
This post should go in the "Communications and Electronics" section.

I highly suggest and aftermarket headunit/radio as that will simplify the install of extra speakers and subwoofers and will allow better control over equalizer settings. There are amplifiers that are made for running a sub and extra speakers that I would suggest.

You could wire the head unit to only handle the front speakers and use an amp to power the rollbar speakers and a sub. This would allow you to get more out of your current speakers and fill in the bass.

Check in my sig for replacing your radio.
 
#12 ·
I probably confused you with the pre-amp outputs. But that is exactly what they are. They are meant to be connected the the inputs of an amplifer. All it is, is a unamplified audio signal. This keeps distortion out of the signal to get a clean sound to the sub.

"You will need an amp to run a sub"
 
#13 ·
You could do what I did and get the Tuffy speaker/storage boxes for the wheel wells. Fits 6x9s (which put out decent sound) and I mounted the amp into one of the boxes. Weather proof, lockable, awesome.
 
#14 ·
I suggest against adding speakers especially if your inexperience at wiring. It is an added expense. Quality and properly powered speakers in the stock locations will give you all the high and mids most people will ever need in our small Jeeps. Add a sub that fits your taste and you will have a great full sounding system.
 
#15 ·
OP, what model speakers do you have. I could steer you to amps that will get the max sound out of the speakers you have. Also do you want to fill out your lows or rattle your jeep. This will determine how much power and how big of a sub you will need.
 
#17 ·
Ok. I have polk 6 1/2s in the soundbar and polk 4x6s in the front dash. Ummm, I want a good rattle, but to where it still sounds good. I know some people that have subs so powerful to the point where it's like oh my god, I can't breathe. I would prefer to still be able to breathe. Also, my rollbar speakers cause a rattle in the soundbar because the domelight is the worst design ever. Whoever thought it would be a good idea to have several pieces of plastic very close to each other in a part of the car that will be withstanding sound vibrations sucksss. It ended up breaking anyways, so now I just have a rattling piece of plastic that serves no purpose except that it's annoying. Would the polyfill stop that? I put dynamat by it, and that helped a lot, but it's still there. Would the rest of my jeep rattle like that if I got a sub?
 
#18 ·
Do you have the model numbers for the speakers. If they can handle over 50watts RMS then you can add an amp to get them more power. Most head units put out 35-50watts per channel.

Our jeeps have very little plastic. As long as the sub is mounted securely it won't cause much rattling. You should try getting sheets of rubber and cutting them out to fit under the light cover. Try finding a sub box for a 12"(a 10" will work too) and look for around a 400-600watt RMS amplifier. I run an 8" but I just want to hear the lows, also mine is less than a foot away so I don't need as much.
 
#22 ·
For a single sub go with a dual. It allows a lot more control over power vs quality. Lets you change from a 4ohm sub to a 2ohm sub just by swapping the wires around. 4ohm sounds better while 2ohm puts out more power.

Edit: Also realize this will effect what amps you can get. Make sure both the 4ohm RMS and 2ohm RMS is less than or equal to your sub. To prevent you from turning it all the way up and instantly blowing it out.
 
#21 ·
I looked at your radio and it puts out 22w RMS per channel. The RMS rating is the only number that really matters when matching amps and speakers. I don't care about the max rating, it can only handle that much for a very short time or gets damaged. Also practically every max rating is grossly exaggerated and all just a marketing scheme.

Your 6.5" can handle 60w RMS and your 4x6 45w RMS. Looks like you can double your power without damaging your speakers. You freq range is 85Hz-22Hz, a sub will fill out the lower ranges. Since you have nice speakers to get the most out of your system you can run a 4 channel amp for all the speakers and a sub amp.

You can get poly fill at Hobby Lobby or Michael's, stuff that behind all your speaker will help with the sound.
 
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#26 ·
I mispoke. Use a 2 channel or the mono amp. The 4-channel is good for running 2 subs, or your 4 other speakers. I read through the manual for that amp and that is what I got from it.
 
#27 ·
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