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Old 05-05-2013, 11:37 PM   #1
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Wtc!!!!

I was stuck. So I started to winch myself out and I stopped using the remote for my warm winch. The jeep is running. So at this moment the jeep is idling in gear. Then it starts to beep and says "check gauges" on my dash. Then it stopped beeping and saying that within five seconds. So I started to winch myself out again and I had it 4 Low so I began to give it some gas and my jeep died. Started to smoke!! and I hop out. No fire. I look at the battery and the positive post is melted! So is my positive end terminal.

After a few I turned the key. No lights came aka no power. Should I stick another battery in it and see if it starts up?

Here's a picture of the post. The battery stayed warm for a pretty long time after the whole incident.

What should I do???
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:40 AM   #2
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I'd start with a new and higher CCA battery.

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Old 05-06-2013, 12:44 AM   #3
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Yep probably a defective battery. Or the battery connections were so bad they melted from not having enough surface area to pass that much current.
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:44 AM   #4
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I'd make sure your winch is wired up correctly as well.
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:52 AM   #5
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How did you have the winch power & ground wires connected to your battery? I'm guessing it was a poor connection!!! This is the second thread I've seen this year where someone turned their positive terminal into a puddle of Lead..Did your positive battery cable survive? Start with a new battery (and pos cable if necessary) then properly reconnect your winch cables.
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Old 05-06-2013, 01:08 AM   #6
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Yep looks like poor connection between the terminals and terminal posts. All the current was trying to go through one small area making a good connection and caused so much heat it began to melt. What terminals do you use? Get a 600CCA+ battery as well. I would use dielectric grease to protect the terminals on the new battery.
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:16 AM   #7
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How did you have the winch power & ground wires connected to your battery? I'm guessing it was a poor connection!!! This is the second thread I've seen this year where someone turned their positive terminal into a puddle of Lead..Did your positive battery cable survive? Start with a new battery (and pos cable if necessary) then properly reconnect your winch cables.
I have them connected on just before the nut of the end terminals. (if that makes sense to you). My positive battery cable looks fine but the "end connector" is melted a little bit so I am going to get a new end for that.
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:17 AM   #8
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Yep looks like poor connection between the terminals and terminal posts. All the current was trying to go through one small area making a good connection and caused so much heat it began to melt. What terminals do you use? Get a 600CCA+ battery as well. I would use dielectric grease to protect the terminals on the new battery.
What type of terminals of my cables? Not sure about those.


Would a red top optima battery work? Looks like most of those have a 700CCA value or higher.
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:33 AM   #9
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What type of terminals of my cables? Not sure about those.


Would a red top optima battery work? Looks like most of those have a 700CCA value or higher.
Do yourself a favor an pick up a sears diehard platinum p4. It has dual posts and a killer warranty. Since optima moved production to Mexico their quality has taken a huge nosedive. Check sears website, sometimes they offer a discount to purchase online and pickup ay store. I saved 20%.
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:47 AM   #10
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What type of terminals of my cables? Not sure about those.


Would a red top optima battery work? Looks like most of those have a 700CCA value or higher.
I would avoid any Optima battery, especially the Red Top. Optima's warranty on the Redtop is voided by connecting a winch to it anyway. In my personal opinion, Optima's battery quality is no longer what it used to be since they were purchased by Johnson Controls. Having had three Optimas in a row die prematurely, I'm done with that brand.

As suggested above, I'd go for the Sears Diehard Platinum P4 which is also known as the Diehard Platinum 34-78DT. That battery has an outstanding reputation, plus it has side post terminals which work fine with a winch.
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Old 05-06-2013, 01:53 PM   #11
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I would avoid any Optima battery, especially the Red Top. Optima's warranty on the Redtop is voided by connecting a winch to it anyway. In my personal opinion, Optima's battery quality is no longer what it used to be since they were purchased by Johnson Controls. Having had three Optimas in a row die prematurely, I'm done with that brand.

As suggested above, I'd go for the Sears Diehard Platinum P4 which is also known as the Diehard Platinum 34-78DT. That battery has an outstanding reputation, plus it has side post terminals which work fine with a winch.
looks like i can get the diehard battery for 197$... ill be picking that up soon and hopefully thats the only thing wrong.
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Old 05-06-2013, 02:40 PM   #12
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looks like i can get the diehard battery for 197$... ill be picking that up soon and hopefully thats the only thing wrong.
If you have O'Reillys or whatever their other stores are called in your area, the Extreme Duty battery they carry is just as good and cheaper by at least $80 if you're cost conscious. It's actually a rebranded deka.

Super Start Automotive Batteries | O'Reilly Auto Parts
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:28 PM   #13
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Yep probably a defective battery. Or the battery connections were so bad they melted from not having enough surface area to pass that much current.
What I highlighted above ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

You were running a TON of amperage through a very small area of the terminal due to a poor connection (loose, corroded, etc). All that load through a very small area of the terminal melted it. Hopefully, you didn't tear anything else up.
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:40 PM   #14
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What I highlighted above ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

You were running a TON of amperage through a very small area of the terminal due to a poor connection (loose, corroded, etc). All that load through a very small area of the terminal melted it. Hopefully, you didn't tear anything else up.
funny thing is the terminals and the connectors were not corroded or loose but maybe it was just loose enough to have that happen. ill let ya know what happens so if other people search this same problem they know what the outcome is.
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Old 05-07-2013, 04:51 AM   #15
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funny thing is the terminals and the connectors were not corroded or loose but maybe it was just loose enough to have that happen. ill let ya know what happens so if other people search this same problem they know what the outcome is.
"Just loose enough", but they weren't loose? There's no other explanation why the massive current went through that one small area on the post.
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:05 AM   #16
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so when using he sears diehard battery should i connect the winch's cables on the side posts and leave the top posts for the actual vehicle?
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:21 AM   #17
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so when using he sears diehard battery should i connect the winch's cables on the side posts and leave the top posts for the actual vehicle?
Yes
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Old 05-07-2013, 09:01 AM   #18
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do you think i should get a new positive cable? or just the end terminal? Or both?
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Old 05-07-2013, 09:04 AM   #19
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do you think i should get a new positive cable? or just the end terminal? Or both?
Pics of said cable?

It wouldn't hurt to at least check everything to make sure it's all in good condition. Now would be the time to fix/upgrade any wiring that may need it.
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Old 05-07-2013, 09:16 AM   #20
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One other thing to check is your positive cable along its length to make sure it has not contacted the steering pump or other moving parts such that the cover is worn through and shorting.
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Old 05-07-2013, 09:19 AM   #21
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Based on that photo of the one melted battery post, you need to replace at least that side's cable. Can't you just look at the connectors yourself and tell if they are in serviceable condition?
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:10 AM   #22
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One other thing to check is your positive cable along its length to make sure it has not contacted the steering pump or other moving parts such that the cover is worn through and shorting.
I'm not looking under my hood -- but anything like that should be protected by a fuse. He only needs to look at non fused connections which without looking are only to the fuse box and alternator, I think.

His winch connection should be fused too.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:56 AM   #23
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i wont be able to get pictures yet.. but what about the interstate battery? part number MT7 AGM?

heres some info:
-48 Month
-Free Replacement
-800 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps)
-Part # MT7-34
-AGM (absorbed glass mat) recommended for high-accessory-load vehicles including frequent plug-in use.


think its comparable to the die hard battery by sears?
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:02 AM   #24
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i wont be able to get pictures yet.. but what about the interstate battery? part number MT7 AGM?

heres some info:
-48 Month
-Free Replacement
-800 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps)
-Part # MT7-34
-AGM (absorbed glass mat) recommended for high-accessory-load vehicles including frequent plug-in use.


think its comparable to the die hard battery by sears?
*Reportedly* there has been quality control issues with Johnson Control batteries... If you can't find/don't want to pay the premium for the sears/odyssey battery look for a deka/super start. Deka is a really good company.
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:47 AM   #25
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I'm not looking under my hood -- but anything like that should be protected by a fuse. He only needs to look at non fused connections which without looking are only to the fuse box and alternator, I think.

His winch connection should be fused too.
Winches draw in excess of 400 amps & are not typically fused. If they were, the winch manufacturers would provide inline fuses like car radio manufacturers do. Our engine starter motors are not fused either.

Not to mention a fuse in that circuit would not have prevented his battery post from melting since the winch was only drawing its normal amperage load.
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:03 PM   #26
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i wont be able to get pictures yet.. but what about the interstate battery? part number MT7 AGM?

heres some info:
-48 Month
-Free Replacement
-800 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps)
-Part # MT7-34
-AGM (absorbed glass mat) recommended for high-accessory-load vehicles including frequent plug-in use.


think its comparable to the die hard battery by sears?
I'd get the DieHard and then your troubles will be solved permanently. .......
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:15 PM   #27
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winches draw in excess of 400 amps & are not typically fused. If they were, the winch manufacturers would provide inline fuses like car radio manufacturers do. Our engine starter motors are not fused either.

Not to mention a fuse in that circuit would not have prevented his battery post from melting since the winch was only drawing its normal amperage load.
x2

I would not just replace the battery without checking your wiring (including solenoids) or you may not be so lucky next time and have a fire. Best thing would be to have a qualified electrician "megger" things. That's a lot of current to be taking chances with.
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:26 PM   #28
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Winches draw in excess of 400 amps & are not typically fused. If they were, the winch manufacturers would provide inline fuses like car radio manufacturers do. Our engine starter motors are not fused either.

Not to mention a fuse in that circuit would not have prevented his battery post from melting since the winch was only drawing its normal amperage load.
I am aware. However, anytime you run a significant length of wire, I am of the very strong opinion that it should be fused close to the battery. Especially if you're talking about a wire that will carry high amperage. If that insulation gets cut and touches frame, it's potentially bye bye jeep. So, I don't see why you wouldn't CYA for $35 bucks and carry around a few extra fuses.

Ex:

Line Pull
Lbs.(Kgs.)
8000 (3630)
Motor
Current
413 amps

Cheap insurance:
Amazon.com: Lewmar (Simpson Lawrence) 400Amp Fuse: Electronics
Amazon.com: Raptor GFBW4-ANL 1/0-4 Guage ANL Rectangular Fuseholder: Electronics
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:19 PM   #29
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I am aware. However, anytime you run a significant length of wire, I am of the very strong opinion that it should be fused close to the battery. Especially if you're talking about a wire that will carry high amperage. If that insulation gets cut and touches frame, it's potentially bye bye jeep. So, I don't see why you wouldn't CYA for $35 bucks and carry around a few extra fuses.

Ex:

Line Pull
Lbs.(Kgs.)
8000 (3630)
Motor
Current
413 amps


Cheap insurance:
Amazon.com: Lewmar (Simpson Lawrence) 400Amp Fuse: Electronics
Amazon.com: Raptor GFBW4-ANL 1/0-4 Guage ANL Rectangular Fuseholder: Electronics
You are citing a fuse for use in marine windlass applications (Lewmar makes windlasses). Moreover, the draw of a MW 8000 winch can exceed 400 amps, blowing the fuse at a possibly critical point. Finally, an intermittent shorted contact may just spark, starting a fire, without blowing the fuse. The best solution is smart cable runs with clearance from moving parts and protective sheathing. Periodic inspection is also wise.
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:57 PM   #30
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You are citing a fuse for use in marine windlass applications (Lewmar makes windlasses). Moreover, the draw of a MW 8000 winch can exceed 400 amps, blowing the fuse at a possibly critical point. Finally, an intermittent shorted contact may just spark, starting a fire, without blowing the fuse. The best solution is smart cable runs with clearance from moving parts and protective sheathing. Periodic inspection is also wise.

I can read the number (413Amps) I myself listed. Jeeps are not 8000lbs, either, but if you think you're going to exceed 400A, there are 500A, 600A, etc. fuses out there, and in other flavors. Also, an ANL fuse is an ANL fuse whether it's for a windlass, an amplifier, a battery bank, your DIY solar installation, or whatever else your heart desires. I'm not suggesting not to do the above that you list as the "best solution", my position is that the best possible solution is doing that in combination with using a fuse block proximate to the battery. I'm really not getting how that is such a controversial suggestion when that's typical wiring etiquette.

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