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Old 04-01-2013, 07:22 PM   #1
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Zone 3" lift

I started this morning installing my new Zone 3" lift, and got it mostly finished today. The one things I have left to do is to replace the old worn out steering stabilizer, and adjust my JKS Disconnects. I also installed a JKS front adjustable track-bar. I will take the Jeep to the shop tomorrow to have them check the track-bar and to realign the tires/steering wheel. Other than that it took about 8.5 hours with my dad, grandpa, and myself. I had a great time learning something new and what a great experience it was doing this for the first time. I am proud to say I did it! Also a great way to spend time with family

Before with a 1.75" BB;


During and After;










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1998 Wrangler Sahara Moss Green and a work in progress!

Mods so far: Zone 3" Lift, Zone Nitro Shocks, JKS Front Adjustable Track-bar, JKS Disco's, 31"x10.5 AT, Cragar Soft 8's, OR-FAB Front Stubby Stinger Bumper, HighRock 4x4 Rear Bumper.
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:05 PM   #2
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Just finished the zone 3 inch lift on my jeep this past week, I love it! Great price and a good ride too. I bought the adjustable front track bar from Rubicon Express, saved drilling an extra hole as you probanly got your adjustable for same reason. I dont know if youve already taken it to the shop for alignment and steerimg wheel but just to save a few bucks if its not included in alignmemt, adjustimg the steerimg wheel is incredibly easy, my steering wheel was not centered after my lift, all you do is loosen the two bolts on the drag link and twist it until your wheel is centered tighten, drive it and repeat until centered. Took me maybe 15 minutes. Ill post a pic of the drag link so youll know what I mean, and my jeep after the zone was installed!

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3 inch Zone suspension lift, Rubicon Express adjustable front track bar, 1.25 inch body lift.
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:10 PM   #3
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Attachment 230457



Attachment 230458



Attachment 230459

The picture with the hard top on is 2 inch BB and 2 imch BL, the soft top picture is 3 inch zone lift amd 2 inch BL. And the top pic is the underside of a jeep tj in the front. The circled part is the drag link, two bolts on top are 15mm wrench I beleive then twist the drag link with pipe wrench until steerimg wheel is straight but DO NOT turn steerimg wheel while drag link is not tightened.
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3 inch Zone suspension lift, Rubicon Express adjustable front track bar, 1.25 inch body lift.
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:18 PM   #4
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Quote:
DO NOT turn steerimg wheel while drag link is not tightened.
I always drive mine up and down the road with the adjusting sleeve clamps loose @ 35-40MPH while checking to see if the wheel is straight. Stop, adjust, drive, stop, adjust. Then I drive it home and tighten the adjusting sleeve clamps. Been doing it for many years.
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:22 PM   #5
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Do yourself and your adjusting sleeve a favor. Leave the pipe wrench for your plumbing. If it won't turn by hand, use the right tool.

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Old 04-01-2013, 11:31 PM   #6
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Really? It all goes well when loose? I only say that becaise I I figured that out another thread how to fix steerimg and everyone emphasized not to touch steerimg wheel when loose, thats good to know that it doesnt affect it, sorry for the false info salem and thanks for the correction patrick! Always love learnimg new things, work smarter not harder!
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:40 PM   #7
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<shrug>
I've never had an issue. Did it on my Chevy trucks, Blazers, CJ5's, and my TJ. In fact, I just centered the wheel in the TJ today like this.
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:45 PM   #8
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That was the first time ive adjusted mine and I retightened before every drive, haha wasnt that bad as it still was a very quick fix but it just got easier! I wonder why multiple people suggested not to turn steerimg wheel while loose.. anyways, thanks for clarifying and simplifying!
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3 inch Zone suspension lift, Rubicon Express adjustable front track bar, 1.25 inch body lift.
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:53 PM   #9
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I'm putting a 4 inch skyjacker currently in my 99 tj sport, now when you drop the transfer case, there are nuts welded in frame? If you happen to break one, how would you ever get the broken bolt out?
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:57 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by thgr8alex View Post
That was the first time ive adjusted mine and I retightened before every drive, haha wasnt that bad as it still was a very quick fix but it just got easier! I wonder why multiple people suggested not to turn steerimg wheel while loose.. anyways, thanks for clarifying and simplifying!
Just my opinion, and just the way I do it. If you hit a curb and zip the threads out, it's not my fault.
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:48 AM   #11
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The steering wheel is part of a front end alignment. I don't really want to mess with it and have the shop do it correctly. I also know there are write ups on aligning it myself but I don't want to bet a set of 33's that ill do it right. I figured pay a few bucks and have the shop do it correctly. Thank you all for the info though.
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1998 Wrangler Sahara Moss Green and a work in progress!

Mods so far: Zone 3" Lift, Zone Nitro Shocks, JKS Front Adjustable Track-bar, JKS Disco's, 31"x10.5 AT, Cragar Soft 8's, OR-FAB Front Stubby Stinger Bumper, HighRock 4x4 Rear Bumper.
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:04 AM   #12
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The steering wheel has absolutely nothing to do with the alignment.
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:08 AM   #13
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X2... I was about to say that, unless the shop includes it in a front alignment if thats what you mean. Because I dont want to bet my 33s on doing an alignment myself either but like Patrick said, the steering wheel not neing centered is its own problem, not part of a bad alignment
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:08 AM   #14
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If you have gone as far to install a lift yourself, there is nothing to be afraid of doing the alignment. It's very easy TJ Toe-in Alignment - 1
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:44 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thgr8alex View Post
That was the first time ive adjusted mine and I retightened before every drive, haha wasnt that bad as it still was a very quick fix but it just got easier! I wonder why multiple people suggested not to turn steerimg wheel while loose.. anyways, thanks for clarifying and simplifying!
Probably the warnings you have read are not to turn the steering wheel while draglink is disconnected from the pitman arm. If you turn the wheel to far in this circumstance, it can break the clock spring.
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:52 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thgr8alex View Post
X2... I was about to say that, unless the shop includes it in a front alignment if thats what you mean. Because I dont want to bet my 33s on doing an alignment myself either but like Patrick said, the steering wheel not neing centered is its own problem, not part of a bad alignment
Yes I was quoted $100 even to make sure the front axle is centered properly and to do a front end alignment. I have read over that write up but to me the lift was easier. If 1/32 makes a very big difference as the write up claims, then I'll leave it to the computer at the shop.
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1998 Wrangler Sahara Moss Green and a work in progress!

Mods so far: Zone 3" Lift, Zone Nitro Shocks, JKS Front Adjustable Track-bar, JKS Disco's, 31"x10.5 AT, Cragar Soft 8's, OR-FAB Front Stubby Stinger Bumper, HighRock 4x4 Rear Bumper.
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:41 AM   #17
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I have two pics very similar to yours....HF floor Jack and Zone box. LOL






And pics of installed boingys:



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Old 04-02-2013, 03:50 PM   #18
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Well I just installed my steering stabilizer. So now all that's left is to have the shop align it.
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1998 Wrangler Sahara Moss Green and a work in progress!

Mods so far: Zone 3" Lift, Zone Nitro Shocks, JKS Front Adjustable Track-bar, JKS Disco's, 31"x10.5 AT, Cragar Soft 8's, OR-FAB Front Stubby Stinger Bumper, HighRock 4x4 Rear Bumper.
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