Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

Zone 4.25 adventure

1K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  dualsetters 
#1 ·
Not an adventure off road but in the driveway. Thought I had it all researched and ready to go , but I just wasn't prepared for it. Btw... The directions were great for the most part. Everything new went on as expected . Now as far as the removal of 12 year old corroded bolts and nuts, keep in mind no torches or impact gun, major pain in the seat.
First fun was with the removal and return of the TC linkage plate. Put me behind schedule 2 hours. But managed to get to the passengers side MML on day 1. Day 2 would be easy and should be right back on schedule. Once again a keep in minder: I'm not 25 so taking my time and not getting frustrated was key.
Day 2 ..... No AC so drivers side should be just as easy . The whole front assembly of tensioners , pumps , alternator etc etc was preventing me from removing the bolt holding the motor mount in place. Did not want to remove it so disconnected the mount from the block with plans to pivot it and easily and confidently remove the bolt. There's is apparently another bolt or something I couldn't see . Wasn't happening. Eventually I stood on top and hacksawed the bolt that needed shortening in place. Now I was only 4 hours off schedule and 2 packs of smokes over budget.
Thank god..... Suspension lifts were my thing back in the day right. (Place your curse word of choice HERE) I used them all . Cut most bolts with grinder that I didn't need to reuse. The shocks I tried to save , but after breaking one decided to buy bolts at Ace and cut the rest off. The top of the shock and nuts kicked my pants. Probably could've grinder through the top of the shock itself, but spent some time with the hacksaw and about 2" of cutting stroke to cut and hammer them off. Could not get the pitman arm removed from the tierod and ended up having enough room to get the springs in with out no problem. So at the end of day 2 I was rear suspension lift short of completion.
I took Monday off and picked through the week figuring to have my first Saturday free all summer. Will admit my research led me to fear the rear shocks and yes it was a worthy fear. 10 gallons of penetrating fluid and a soft touch with 3/8s drive and I had snapped off 2 of the upper bolts.
It was at this moment I gave in and got on line. Yes I cheated:) An hour later I returned home with a dremel tool , quick release and metal cutting wheels that lasted approximately 3 hours. 75 bucks well spent lol. I don't know what I'd of done with out them next to dropping the gas tank or removing the body lift I just installed.
Saturday morning was fine tuning. Tweaked the front end straight and ended up dropping the TC skid plate 1/2". Still have a vibe so spent last night IDing and replacing a u joint on the front drive shaft. The amount of play was almost unnoticeable but enough that it was the problem. I left the 1/2" on the TC skid plate because the rear drive shaft just looked to steep with out it.
So for the most part I am done. I have some new noises that I'll look for when I check everything this coming weekend and have to rig something for my shifter that's hitting the console , but no hurries. I've had enough driveway mechanics for a bit . Now maybe I'll actually have some time to use it.
 
See less See more
#2 ·
I didn't have to deal with rusty bolts, but that sounds about normal. Took me 13 hours total over 2.5 days. Its a lot of work, but worth it when all done.

Make sure you reset your toe-in on the front tires. It is likely now 3/4" after the lift.
 
#3 ·
I installed same kit couple weeks ago but didnt do the MML or BL. I soaked the rear shock bolts with areokroil week before bolts didnt break. Although my LJ has lived all it's life in Va.

Here's a good offer on the areokroil, get one free if you buy one. Might help the next guy!! https://websecure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com/orders/order_pentrial.shtml

 
#4 ·
Yeah , I reset the toe to where it was tighter in the front. I read 1/8 one place and 5/32 another. I got it just heavy of 1/8. I believe it was around 3/4 when I started. Oh yeah, one of them noises was the jam nut on the new track bar. Another was the bolt on the rear track bar to the axle. I meant to get those later I guess I did.
Still have one rattle seems like the tranny is shaking a little on lift off. Thinking maybe the mount to the skid plate might need replaced. Have to pull it and see. Looks like 4 bolts and 4 rubber bushings. Guess I'll have to get up in there and see.
If that areokroil works I would recommend it to anyone that doesn't like cramming their head in a wheel well for hours and cutting shock bolt nuts that are welded on. The washers are near impossible to remove had to grind them flat.

I agree Dextreme, so far I am happy I took the time to do it. Hope I can say by the middle of hunting season it was worth the time. I retired my old Setter last year and the new pup won't be hunting this year so will be scouting any trail I can. Honestly , hope I never have to use my winch haha.
 
#5 ·
Transmission mounts are a pretty common failure. About $30 at Napa, but before you replace it, loosen the 4 nuts on the skid, then retighten. Sometimes if the mml was done without loosening those nuts, it puts the mount in a bind. It's free, and only takes a couple of minutes to see if that fixes the problem.
 
#6 ·
I had my lj stripped to practically nothing during the frame swap (due to bent frame, bought it wrecked,not rusted). Not one rusty fastener or broken bolt. One of the only reasons to live in California lol!
 
#10 ·
Sounds like good times. It is always fun working on older vehicles:atomic:





I had my lj stripped to practically nothing during the frame swap (due to bent frame, bought it wrecked,not rusted). Not one rusty fastener or broken bolt. One of the only reasons to live in California lol!
So true. Mine didn't have any rust but I still hit the fasteners a few days ahead of time with WD 40 since it was all I had. Not a single busted bolt.:D
 
#7 ·
Yeah, loosening the tranny bolts on the skid plate was one of the last things I did before the test drive. Maybe should've again after dropping the skid plate .

Sunny PA , gotta love it!!! All the salt is building up in big piles now taunting drivers by. It will be gone by the end of January.....
 
#9 ·
Well did all of the above and still searching. Had my front drive off and cv looks good, but did find a bad ball joint. That'd explain some of the noise but can't imagine it would make the tranny shake starting out in first. I think my lift brought the devil outta her. I don't know what I'm dreading worse now. Ball joints or replacing the front shaft or getting it all done and still having a problem.
 
#11 ·
Haha, west coast guys always rubbing it in.
Rust isn't a deterrent ;it's a privilege. I keep telling myself that . Doesn't help.
Thanks for any opinions, the new tranny mount , that sounds really gay, made a significant difference , but still some rattling up front on take off. My next step is motor mounts. Never did inspect the drivers side due to laziness. It's getting cut off and a new bolt. I think grade 8 will do it. So that's my new #1 on top of the list. At least I'm on the road.
No major signs in driving from the bad ball joint so that's on hold until I get the problems made evident from the new suspension ironed out.
Getting rid of that cracked exhaust manifold might help the 2.4 a wee bit on the hills.
I hope . Some how I think that's running from front to rear when I do it. Hate to screw with it when my emissions are good.
 
#12 ·
Well I finally got around to changing the motor mounts. Ended up the passengers side mount was broken and coming apart since I installed the mml. I didn't realize how bad they were until I got the new ones.
Seems to have totally corrected the issues.
I read some posts earlier that suggested just replacing the motor mounts when doing a mml. Sounds like sound wisdom.
Next project ..... Exhaust
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top