I have been looking into snorkel options for my 93 FI I6 yj. I have already read the pros and cons and decided this is the way to go.
ARB looks like the best choice, but $440 seems abit steep (if anyone has one used please pm me)
I know there are tons of home made threads but I'd rather risk hydro-locking my engine then strapping pvc pipe to my jeep....
ALL of the ebay kits labeled for YJ's look like TJ kits and will take too much modification. BUT looking at the XJ kits, they look like they will be close since they are on the same side but too long. Has anyone tried to make an xj snorkel work?
Why do you want a snorkle? Your distributor will be under water before your air intake. I dont think your Jeep will run with the distributor under water.
Am I missing anything?
Why do you want a snorkle? Your distributor will be under water before your air intake. I dont think your Jeep will run with the distributor under water. Am I missing anything? Good Luck, L.M.
seems like a lot of people around me do it for pure looks, this may not be the case but in most cases. I went by the mall a few weeks ago and saw 2 jk's a Tj and an fj all in the parking lot looking like they were ready for the great flood.
Air Intake upgrades for YJs are utterly useless. It already gets plenty of air plenty high enough. If you're that deep in it's at the top of the radiator, so imagine being in water up to your calves. Air Intake is not high on the list at that point. If you're worried about splash, then don't plunge into water and fly through it. It's a Jeep, not a boat.
ok so heres my take on the point. i have an E-fan and im lifted 4 inches. my 2.5L (tho a dog) has i planty of high enough air box. to solve your mud issue id drill a water drain and or put a fine screen over then inlet to the air box. it will help with the sand and mud entering but i think the biggest thing you can do in relocate the air box to the highest possible point. or do as my buddy did drill a 2.5 in whole in to the heater vent inlet. and build to that. but be warned it adds a shit load of cabin noise. not that it seems possible but it is. as for the snorkle and distributor you really should convert to an eletronic off the newer 4.0L it wont stall under water. or theres a new option. add fender liners so the water off the tires doesnt enter the motor compartment and flood shit. bc im sorry unless you have some special kinda tires in water thats gonna be high enough to get in the air box and your tire size. the nose should almost floot when at WOT
A few points on my mind right now:
Point A: what is ^ this guy trying to say?!
Point B: these replies have been savage! Like calm down folks, it's not your jeep. If somebody is producing it there's probably a reason: it looks good/cool, or it's useful! Both are fine!
Point C: I'm way to tired, and don't have any real info to the topic, other than Cherokee's have different angles, so it probably won't line up or look all that cool.
The stock air intake location on a YJ is just plain stupid. Follow the intake to the front of the grill below the headlights. This is right where a bow wave is when crossing water. You can remove the front snorkle which will keep the water out, but now you're drawing hot air. I used to do water crossing quite regularly. When you enter at a slow speed and maintain your speed you create a bow wave and the water level in the engine compartment stays much lower than the surrounding water. I've had water going over the hood but not shorting the engine. Now about the snorkle, id go with a Hummer type snorkel if I were to do a snorkle. I chose to go with a cold air intake, not because I felt the motor needed more air, but because it draws air in at the hood level allowing me to take advantage of the lower water level in the engine bay. To each his own, but there is nothing wrong with making your jeep more "water friendly" if that's the type wheeling you do.
Air intake really is a bitch. You want to be able to take in as much air as possible, which would be directly outside the vehicle, but then water gets in. You shield it from water and air can't get in as well.
I do like reno92's point about the bow wave, though. I didn't take that into account when I said "utterly useless," not the best choice of words on my part.
Thing is, you risk a lot when going into water. There is a fine line where the raising the air intake is just redundant, and the stock location is quite close. Maybe the best idea would be to get a valve where you can take in hot air up high for water crossing, and cold air by the headlight for everything else. Basically adding another intake and having a gate/valve that switches between the two.
Very true! You can't just think about the air intake. There is the differential breathers, are they high enough to not suck in water. Axle seals, are they in good shape? When that hot differential hits cold water it sucks in water like a straw. Transmission breather, nothing like water and tranny fluid to ruin a good day. Then there is the mud and water that hide in all the frame openings to speed up the already problamatic rust issue.
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