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Old 12-29-2008, 10:14 AM   #1
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Anyone using the 4x4 posi lock thing?

I think I'm gonna have to get one. I replaced my vacuum switch thing on my transfercase this morning and still have no 4wd. I don't know what else to do. I'm out of ideas. I checked all the vacuum hoses and didn't find any cracks or anything. Anyone have any other suggestions....other than the posi lock thing. I won't have the money to buy one until after april and I'd like to still go play in my jeep...lol. I'm just now realizing it hasn't been working at all since I've had the jeep. I got stuck last night somewhere that I shouldn't have got stuck, so I don't want to take any chances with my 4wd not working. Is there some way I can change some vacuum lines under the hood to put it in 4wd? Any help will be appreciated.

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Old 12-29-2008, 11:34 AM   #2
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go to Jeepforum.com and do a search on Posi-lok
Theres alot more help over there.
This board is very quiet most of the time

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Old 12-29-2008, 12:02 PM   #3
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instead of getting a posi-lok, get a permi-lok it's just like the posi accept that there is no selectable cable. its always locked in the axle. it cost like 50 bucks. done deal now go wheel...and this board is not quiet most of the time. im always here and so is a bunch of others.
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Old 12-29-2008, 12:13 PM   #4
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you can jerry rig your own perma lock using a piece of 3/8 hose. wedge it in place forcing the collar to the lock side.

theres several variations of a build your own posi lock also. i have been running the bike cable version for about three years now, but im going to modify it over to a locking choke cable this year. i dont like the permanent lock because im spooled in the front and need the CAD to steer
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Old 12-29-2008, 12:18 PM   #5
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Okay guys, in noob terms please...lol. If my 4wd actually does stay engaged, then can I drive it on the street with the transfercase in the 2wd position without hurting it, or do I need to swap the vacuum lines back over to where the 4wd light goes out?
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Old 12-29-2008, 12:36 PM   #6
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in baffalos case, yes spooled (no spider gears, just ring and pinion) is bad option for a permi-lok. but a stock front axle w/ the lim slip, the permi is a simple CHEAP fix for the vacuum situation. black tape can solve the light issue...lol but to answer your question as simple as posible... your t-case works independantly from your front axle to some extent (other than sending vacuum to the front axle shafts.) and your t-case is selected mechanically, so if its in 2wd...its IN 2wd. with a bad vacuum to the front your in a sence turning only three wheels instead of four. good vac, or posi/permi will press your shafts together and give you all four turning.
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Old 12-29-2008, 12:44 PM   #7
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Okay, so I'm safe to drive it with the front axle locked, but with the t-case in 2wd. Not gonna hurt anything in otherwords.
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Old 12-29-2008, 12:52 PM   #8
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I did that with an old scout I used to have. Left the hubs turned in 4wd and just moved the transfer case in and out of 4wd. Did it that way for years never had a problem. I'm guessing its OK with the YJ too.
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Old 12-29-2008, 01:04 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by 90yjwrangler View Post
Okay, so I'm safe to drive it with the front axle locked, but with the t-case in 2wd. Not gonna hurt anything in otherwords.
that is correct. if it ever works its way unlocked though, you wont have 4wd.

and fels is correct....always locked is a good option unless you're spooled....only harm might be a SLIGHT loss of mpg
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Old 12-29-2008, 01:14 PM   #10
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Awesome, thanks for the info guys. In the meantime, I'll be trying to figure what vacuum line I got crossed up. For now, I'm going wheelin!!!
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Old 12-29-2008, 04:34 PM   #11
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And just as I say that they all chime in
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Old 12-29-2008, 05:17 PM   #12
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lol-james, we gotta keep you on your toes!!!
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Old 12-29-2008, 06:44 PM   #13
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Thanks guys, I'll feel a lot safer driving it in 2wd on the street now with the front axle still locked.
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Old 12-29-2008, 08:34 PM   #14
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i would just get a disconnect eliminator kit
kit - $30
tj/xj/zj long axle-$15
= 45

then your front end is always engaged and it is stronger
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Old 12-29-2008, 08:49 PM   #15
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i would just get a disconnect eliminator kit
kit - $30
tj/xj/zj long axle-$15
= 45

then your front end is always engaged and it is stronger

Little out of my league there......slow down, I'm still learning...lol. But yeah, I want to make it strong for sure. That sounds like a good option though. I'll do a little research on that and see if I can put something like that together. Thanks man.
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Old 12-29-2008, 11:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90yjwrangler View Post
I think I'm gonna have to get one. I replaced my vacuum switch thing on my transfercase this morning and still have no 4wd. I don't know what else to do. I'm out of ideas. I checked all the vacuum hoses and didn't find any cracks or anything. Anyone have any other suggestions....other than the posi lock thing. I won't have the money to buy one until after april and I'd like to still go play in my jeep...lol. I'm just now realizing it hasn't been working at all since I've had the jeep. I got stuck last night somewhere that I shouldn't have got stuck, so I don't want to take any chances with my 4wd not working. Is there some way I can change some vacuum lines under the hood to put it in 4wd? Any help will be appreciated.

~ This is from my own experience ~
First check for vacuum at all connections. Check vacuum motor on axle by raising the wheel and have a friend turn the wheel (pass side) while applying vacuum to the motor on the axle. If it does not shift, the motor is bad, or the shift fork is bad. I have used the 4x4 posi lock and it works very well. I would not lock the front axle permanently unless you never use as a DD or at high speed. It will causes undo ware on the u joints and transfer case. Also you can get vibration from the front drive shaft which is not balanced.
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Old 12-30-2008, 01:07 AM   #17
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Just get some TJ axle shafts. No more issues.
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Old 12-30-2008, 02:07 AM   #18
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~ This is from my own experience ~
First check for vacuum at all connections. Check vacuum motor on axle by raising the wheel and have a friend turn the wheel (pass side) while applying vacuum to the motor on the axle. If it does not shift, the motor is bad, or the shift fork is bad. I have used the 4x4 posi lock and it works very well. I would not lock the front axle permanently unless you never use as a DD or at high speed. It will causes undo ware on the u joints and transfer case. Also you can get vibration from the front drive shaft which is not balanced.

Cool, thanks for the info. I'm gonna keep messing with the vacuum lines until I figure it out. I don't want to leave the front locked all the time. For now, I can just disconnect the constant vacuum and put a cap on it for it to not lock. I'm just gonna start saving my money for the posi lock kit, but for now, atleast I can use my 4wd with just hooking up one vacuum line. Kinda annoying, but it'll work for now.
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Old 12-30-2008, 06:59 AM   #19
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the disconnect eliminator is cheaper.......u will not notice that the front end is or is not engaged when in 2 wheel drive and it equates for around .5mpg loss.......that is how the tjs are and there was a good reason why they got rid of the vaccum disconnect
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Old 12-30-2008, 03:26 PM   #20
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Well I had a solid rear axel in my Pathfinder and it ate the shit out of my tires when I turned wouldnt it do the same on the front if both wheels turn at the same rate tghe inside one would have to catch up with the outside and wouldnt that result in eating up your tires?
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Old 12-30-2008, 03:44 PM   #21
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Quote:
Well I had a solid rear axel in my Pathfinder and it ate the shit out of my tires when I turned wouldnt it do the same on the front if both wheels turn at the same rate tghe inside one would have to catch up with the outside and wouldnt that result in eating up your tires?
the spider gears allow them to turn at different speeds. eliminating the CAD wont be like having a locker.
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Old 12-30-2008, 04:52 PM   #22
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sounds like the pathfinder had a limited slip.....you will not notice this and if im wrong contact me in a year with proof and ill buy your posi lock

my tj never wore the tires unevenly when it was street driven and you will in a sense have the same front end only a lil better(strenght wise) since it is high pinion
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Old 12-30-2008, 07:32 PM   #23
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Had is the key word the guy I baught it from welded the axel together so I had a 1 peice axel, they took the pumpkin cover off and welded the teeth together I tried to break it and cut it but I couldnt break it and I couldnt get the saw in there to cut it, so yeah
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Old 12-30-2008, 11:47 PM   #24
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lol you had a lincoln locker! you can street drive a permi-lok and not notice it due to the spider gears like buffalo said...
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Old 12-30-2008, 11:53 PM   #25
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Yeah it was a bitch, hope your way is cheaper and faster to fix
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Old 12-31-2008, 09:31 AM   #26
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locking the CAD or putting in TJ axles wont be the same as welding the spiders.

im lincoln locked in the front, when i turn my wheel, it bogs down my motor (when my CAD is engaged)
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:27 PM   #27
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I have problem with my one piece axles causing a vibration.it's because of the YJ drive shaft is not a cv style,so that had to be changed with a Tom Wood's double cardan drive shaft,but there is still a small bit of vibration @75mph instead of 50mph.I wish I kept in the 4x posi-lock cable with two piece axles.but now I have one piece with new seals and alloy tube seals,so a Yj one piece is not like a TJ one piece because the pinion angle of the front axle is different."to most it's a jeep-to a redneck it's a gift from God"

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Old 04-23-2009, 05:54 AM   #28
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One thing about jeeps is not to buy anything until you are sure of what needs to be bought. Unless you just want to slowly replace everything, & money is not the object.

For whatever it's worth, I bought the posi-lok cable deal.

I know I paid too much for the option to lock my CAD, but I like way it works.
If I had to do it all over again, I'd still pay the $130.00 to have it. It's nice to have a sure way to lock the axle shafts.

That said, the vacuum system is easy enough to fix. As long as everything is still in place, it's likely you either have a vacuum leak or the switch on the transfer case is bad.

The other thing is the dash light may have a bad bulb. To determine if the axle is engaging, first verify if vacuum is present at the axle's shift motor.

If it if, & the motor is shifting then it 's likely the bulb. If no vacuum is present, then you'll need to backtrack from there.

You could test the switch that controls the light, to verify that the bulb is working. It's on the firewall near the battery.

Keep in mind, that the multi-colored plastic lines are impervious to all know automotive fluids, EXCEPT battery acid!
This stuff makes them brittle & prone to cracking.

A diagram of the system is always handy;

The vacuum storage tank is the plastic ball under the battery.


If you are patient, you could check the entire system within 45 minutes.
If all the components are functioning properly, that would leave the plastic lines, or the rubber connectors are leaking somewhere.
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Old 04-24-2009, 12:31 AM   #29
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Bad Vibs

I just talked to Tom Woods today and he said I can send the driveshaft back and he can add a double cardan joint to the diff end for a bit more moneys,or correct the pinion angle of the diff,But if I'm going to pull off my perches and reweld all the brackets to create a mir 2-3 degrees of angle,I'll just get a dana 44 front and work something worth working with.The fact is the dana30 is a weak axle,especially with a two piece passenger axle and a CAD system(xj is the strongest dana30,with bigger u-joints than the YJ).I had one piece axle shafts that I could put in myself,and so I did(they were free).

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Old 04-29-2009, 07:38 PM   #30
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for what it is worth I did this:
I have constant vacuum I tapped into from my MC2100 carb. I then ran a vacuum line to the plastic ball. From there I ran vac line inside the and mounted a 3 way ball valve. near the short shifter. I then ran 2 lines back out and down to my axle actuator. The ball valve is now controlling vacuum to either side of the actuator. so I can lock in when I have 4wd when ever I want. I tied it all in so when I turn the ball valve to 4wd it activates the dash indicator. It is just like the posi lok I can disconnect while making turns and reconnect when ever I want like have to 2wd in low if I needed it to. Probably could set it all up for pretty cheap. I scavenged my parts. I am pleased with it no problems.

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