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Old 05-25-2009, 02:14 PM   #1
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Bought a used lift kit???

I bought a used lift kit and it was a take off without instructions. Any idea on what brand it might be or if anything else is needed? I think it is a 2-2 1/2 supsension lift. The guy said that it came off of his 1992 YJ and it was on there when he bought it. He replaced with a 4" Rough Country and gave me everything he thought was taken off. It included the set of heavy duty leaf springs (stamped in yellow JYJ123LS), all bushings (which are red/orange), sleeves, rear U Bolts, transfer case drops, sway bar links & pitman arms. I am hoping to find some installation instructions somewhere online. Any suggestions?
Here is a photo of the ends of the leaf springs.
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:49 PM   #2
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hey bro this is something i looked up for you on quadratec most of the times they have installtion guides for the parts they sell i know this is probably not the same as yours but you said you needed one that comes with a pitman arm, this is warrior product 3inch lift , the two inch didnt need the pitman arm. - http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/37256.pdf

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Old 05-25-2009, 09:54 PM   #3
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pretty self explanitory. if you plan to wheel, skip the sway bar links, and make them, or buy discos.

what do you mean pitman arms? there should be only one. t case drop is just a spacer, the leafs are simple, but should have front and rear.

quadratec are good people, if you call and give them those numbers they can probably tell you what lift the springs are anyway.

cool find though
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:58 PM   #4
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don't reuse the u-bolts.. get thy self new ones....on the plus side the springs are mil wrap.
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Old 05-26-2009, 08:00 AM   #5
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Those springs look better made the rough country. That looks like the rear of the spring, the front should have a mil wrap that goes all the way around, instead of the 1/4 wrap.
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Old 05-26-2009, 08:09 AM   #6
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Thanks for help guys. Right now I am stuck with a bolt in the rear bushings and hanger of one of the front leaf springs that I am trying to remove. 1 full day of PB Blaster, numerous hammerings, and knuckle busting haven't budged it yet. I am hoping to remove one stock spring and replace it and see what kinda difference there is before I decide how to proceed. I currently have a 5 3/4" long saber-toothed looking shackle lift in the front that I am thinking of replacing with a shorter boomerang type if the lift comes from the new springs. You are right there is only 1 pitman arm and some t-case spacers.

Couple of questions: How should I proceed with the seized bolt? How do you tell the front springs from the rear because they appear to be identical? If it is 2" lift kit will I need the t-case spacers?

Thanks for the idea to put on new U-Bolts, both the "new ones" and mine look rusted and weak.
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Old 05-26-2009, 08:38 AM   #7
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I also just checked the springs and the mil wrap is the same on all ends. However, two of the springs have shims on top. I am assuming that these are the fronts, but which way does the shim face?
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Old 05-26-2009, 10:32 AM   #8
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air hammer is the only way i could get the springs off my cherokee
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Old 05-26-2009, 10:47 AM   #9
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That is my next course of action. I am going to borrow a buddie's 1/2" impact. My 3/8" would not budge the bolt.

Also, quadratec told me that it is a TrailMaster 2" lift so I found directions on their website. The springs are interchangeable front and back.

The directions are for the 3" and 2" kit and they say to lower the t-case and to adjust the brake lines. Anybody know if this is necessary for the 2" lift?
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Old 05-26-2009, 03:14 PM   #10
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Get out the grinder and cut both ends of the bolt off. Then go to town with an air hammer or BFH. If you can cut the bolts on the inside of the shackle then just use a prybar/claw hammer to pry them down.
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Old 05-26-2009, 03:33 PM   #11
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On my RE kit, from memory.....the mil ends (Double wrapps) are on the frame ends of the springs (vs shackle ends) and the shims are on the rear axle. They help with pinoin angle adjustment. I believe they come in from the frame side to help push the pinion up like 2-1/2 degrees.
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Old 05-26-2009, 03:56 PM   #12
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ya, shims should be in back for rear pinion angle.
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Old 05-26-2009, 07:46 PM   #13
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Been saws-all in it like crazy and only got through 1 side of the bolt and 1/2 of the otherside. Took about 5 blades and 3 batteries to get that far. There has to be an easier way. I tried the other driver's side leaf spring it is ceased at the same spot too. If all 4 are like that I will go crazy. I am thinking about an angle grinder now.
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Old 05-26-2009, 08:36 PM   #14
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I used my angle grinder during the install of my RC 4" lift. Had to use it to open up the floor a bit at the shifter for 2nd, 4th, and reverse gears. Also had to use it to remove the old pitman arm nut. I busted two pullers I "rented" from auto zone. If you install the t-case drop bracket, you may have to trim a bit of metal for your shifter if you are running the manual trans.

Like Mindbender stated, use PB Blaster very liberally. It does help.

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Old 05-27-2009, 05:53 AM   #15
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The TX case drop is to relieve the angles. It does help. I have a 2.5 lift and did the t case lower. Be very careful with the bolts on the case cover. If you twist these off you will be welding new ones in the frame. You should have a coned shoulder bolts for the drop. Lots of PB blaster and soak time. PB and a lil heat also help, If you dont have a torch try a can of map gas (most hardware or home stores) to toast up some of the more stubborn bolts, a solid tap with a hammer, and a good feel for when you are twisting the wrench. Had good luck with pb, heat and a bigger hammer for the pitman arm wrestling match.
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:46 AM   #16
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I dont know what kind of sawzall blades your using But i got one that will cut a car in half and still keep going. Milwaukee makes a real good blade so does lenox, I used a wally world piranha blade yesterday and it was dull after cutting 2 u bolts to length after a lift.
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:21 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minderbinder3 View Post
The directions are for the 3" and 2" kit and they say to lower the t-case and to adjust the brake lines. Anybody know if this is necessary for the 2" lift?
Lowering the brakes lines are easy and would ensure you don't pull them tight. I just ran to the hardware store and bought a couple pieces of small metal and made extensions for the front. If I remember right I did the same in the rear.
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Old 05-27-2009, 12:34 PM   #18
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Got both the front springs on and bolted into the shackles. Which is the best place to raise the body in order to get the springs up into the u-bolts? I currently have 3 jack stands under the axle. I need to raise the springs about 4 inches inorder to meet up with the bottom of the axle.

By the way, I have already tested the bolts on the rear springs and the same ones are ceased as well. Fun times ahead. Did I mention I hate ceased bolts?
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Old 05-29-2009, 11:46 PM   #19
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Finally got it installed and it added about 1 1/2 -1 3/4" all around. Most importantly it leveled it. i drove it today and can feel a world of difference in the springs. It drives much better now. My question is how do I know if I need to lower the t-case and put in a drop pitman arm? I think with the new shackles and springs and 1" body lift it has about 2 1/2" lift. Steering feels a little firmer but still solid and I tried 4x4 and it shifted no problem. Is there something I should look for or feel while driving? All in all it was well worth it... my old springs were so flat that I felt everthing and now it feels like I am riding on cushions. Thanks for all your help on this mod...it was a lot of work but well worth it.
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Old 05-30-2009, 10:17 AM   #20
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drive line vibration. and look real careful at your slip yoke to make sure its not leaking. if it is leaking then its not engageing all the way and using the seal as a balancer which it was never designed to do. the body lift shouldnt matter cause your not lifting drive train with that.

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