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Old 06-24-2012, 07:50 PM   #31
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I have yet to go see it dry but so far I love it nd at a cost of 25$ how can u go wrong

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Old 06-24-2012, 08:48 PM   #32
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here are a couple suggestions...

Swap out dash lights with LED's. It really makes the instruments pop out at you at night. Total cost < $80 from SuperBrightLEDs.com

While not as obvious as some of the other suggestions you might get, if you are planning to install a lot of electrical equipment, consider putting in an auxiliary fuse block. You can get one that you wire straight to the battery with 6-12 circuits for around $15-$25. All of these will be continually hot. Be sure to put a circuit breaker between the fuse block and the battery. A good 12v 30-50 amp auto-reset circuit breaker is about $5-$10.

As an alternative, for around $75, you can get a Painless Performance fuse block with 3 continually hot and 4 switched circuits. It comes with a 50-amp circuit breaker.

The advantage of installing a fuse block is that you don't have to keep hunting a hot wire to splice into... and have all those hidden fuses to track down when something stops working.

Have fun!

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Old 06-24-2012, 09:24 PM   #33
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Good suggestion for the extra box. I was thinking about that myself. I have a optima red top for the main battery and high output alternator. Was thinking about boxing anther battery with separate runs for the extra things like the winch, radio, cb, etc..
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:37 PM   #34
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Wow that's actually a really good idea! I do eventually wanna put a winch on, and some auxiliary lights and whatever else I find that seems fun, so I'm sure that would help. Where would I mount it, or like how would I mount it?
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:46 PM   #35
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I bought the Painless wiring harness to start with, primarily for the switched circuits. I mounted it on the fire wall as high up as I could reach behind the emergency brake pedal (making sure nothing interfered with emergency brake, clutch, brake, etc. It was convenient to the stock fuse block to connect to a switched circuit for the switched relay.

I also bought a plain 12-circuit box and mounted it on the fire wall between the acelerator pedal and the heater.

I have circuits for several 12v power outlets (GPS, cell phone, computer, video cameras), a 120v inverter, a cell phone repeater / amplifier, and the CB radio. I have plenty of connections for winch, air compressor, or whatever else I want to add.

Before you drill holes, I recommend that you measure from known reference points, like from the steering column or some other penetration, then open the engine compartment and verify you are not going to be drilling into something important like a wiring harness or having a sharp pointed screw rubbing on something like a hose or brake line.

I purchased a rubber grommet from the hardware store and drilled a hole through the fire wall for it to fit into. I think it was like 1/2" grommet. You can push wires through this grommet without the metal edges of the hole cutting into the insulation. I drilled this hole about an inch to the left of the bracket holding the steering column to the fire wall.

The Painless block has a coil of wires already wired into the block. I figured trying to drill the holes would be a real bear because the wires don't let the block lie flat. They provide 3/8" thick rubber spacers for this. Trying to hold all this stuff together and bend around the corners was frustrating. So I went into my shop and cut a piece of 3/4" plywood the size of the fuse block. I then drilled a 1/4" hole through the block at the location for each screw. Using some double sided tape, I stuck this "template" to the firewall where I wanted to mount the fuse block, then drilled the holes. The template block then pried off easily afterwards.

Getting the screws started was another story. My arms don't have enough flex joints and my eyes play games with me... darn bifocals... But with perseverance and use of creative language, I prevailed.

Just be sure you measure and verify before you drill.

Oh... there are several good ideas on labeling your circuits. Some people may suggest a tape flag with the circuit labeld on it. Others may suggest using a tie-wrap to tie a laminated business card to the fuse box labeling the circuits. Even if your memory is really good, after adding several circuits and a little time, you might not remember what all those red wires are for... And if that is not enough, be kind to the next owner!

Now if you go wild with electrical add-ons, you might need to invest in a higher amp alternator and/or a dual battery setup. Keep adding these things to your budget and you may never "finish" modifying your jeep!

Enjoy!
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Old 06-25-2012, 11:14 PM   #36
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Wow, thanks for all the info! That's a full walkthrough right there! I'm definitely gonna come to this when I decide to put the stuff in!
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Old 06-28-2012, 01:14 PM   #37
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How did you change the tail lights to the round LED lights? I think that looks good.
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Old 07-03-2012, 01:07 PM   #38
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2xs View Post
you only answered part of my question, you correctly answered what yea your Jeep is, the YJ part was not necessary, as this is the YJ section.

What engine and transmission do you have?

Im askign because alot of "bang for your buck" items are engine related.
a K&N filter or filter kit could add perceived power, as well as a shift kit for an automatic transmission.

If you are just looking to throw an antenna on it to look kool, think if you will ever get your money out of a CB you never use? or would you use it alot?

MY favorite mod was the cheapest, most visual "show off" mod I have ever done, LED tails:


The BEST mod I ever did was fix my steering:


the LED tails cost me a whopping $40, but the steering cost me about $350.
Where did you pick up the tail lights? I have been looking for a bit and all I can find is the stupid square ones, just with LED's......
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Old 07-03-2012, 01:19 PM   #39
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Talking

just found them, nevermind
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Old 07-03-2012, 02:50 PM   #40
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[QUOTE="Jeep_Monkey"]here are a couple suggestions...

Swap out dash lights with LED's. It really makes the instruments pop out at you at night. Total cost < $80 from SuperBrightLEDs.com

I got 10 to do my gages and only cost me $11 from there
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Old 07-03-2012, 03:11 PM   #41
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Yep I messed that all up..

I got 10 leds to do my gages and only cost me $11 shipped from superbrightled.com

I bedlined my door panels they turned out great I will b doing my dash next I'm not sure about doing my dash pad. I did my pull handles and they turned gooey after a few weeks
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Old 07-03-2012, 03:28 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nas.a7x
Yep I messed that all up..

I got 10 leds to do my gages and only cost me $11 shipped from superbrightled.com

I bedlined my door panels they turned out great I will b doing my dash next I'm not sure about doing my dash pad. I did my pull handles and they turned gooey after a few weeks
Do you know whitch bulbs you ordered?
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Old 07-03-2012, 03:38 PM   #43
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For the YJs, their are 10 of the 194's and i'd say 10 of the 74's. The 74's are for your turnsignal indicastor, check engine light, shift helping arrow. The 1194s are for the quages. Real easy and definatley nice looking in the end.
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:27 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisnarron

Do you know whitch bulbs you ordered?
The 194, 120 degrees
The 92-95 has different gages. the light shines through the numbers and marks, but the 87-91 the light shines from around the edges of the gages so u would need an led with more lights & degrees of light. I have a 95 so I could get cheeper leds. I will try and find my invoice or the actual part number. One thing to remember on leds is that they are either on or off you can't adjust the brightness with the dimmer switch.
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:35 PM   #45
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Here's a pic of the extra one I had left over and the package they came in

Attachment 137637
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:40 PM   #46
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Pics of your gauges?
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:17 PM   #47
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Pics suck best i could get

Attachment 137662



Attachment 137663
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:17 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Nas.a7x View Post
The 194, 120 degrees
The 92-95 has different gages. the light shines through the numbers and marks, but the 87-91 the light shines from around the edges of the gages so u would need an led with more lights & degrees of light. I have a 95 so I could get cheeper leds. I will try and find my invoice or the actual part number. One thing to remember on leds is that they are either on or off you can't adjust the brightness with the dimmer switch.
Good Point. I have a 91, and for the 360 or whatever. They were pricey, but that is because the light shines from around as stated above...

Amazon.com: 4x 194 168 5-smd Blue High Power LED Car Lights Bulb By Comfort Wheels: Automotive

Thats what I ordered, then got the 74s from some china ebay thing. lol
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:19 PM   #49
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Mine are not blindingly bright. They r just perfect
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Old 07-03-2012, 06:07 PM   #50
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Where did you pick up the tail lights? I have been looking for a bit and all I can find is the stupid square ones, just with LED's......
Amazon.com
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Old 07-08-2012, 11:41 PM   #52
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x2 for electric fan
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:27 AM   #53
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It takes the fan off your serpentine belt which let's your engine run a little easier giving it more power. It also let's you turn off your fan if you enter deep water so it is not a propeller like your stock would be since it is always running. Also, at highway speeds you can kill it since enough air is going through it anyway.
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:04 AM   #54
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So like just on a regular toggle switch?

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