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Old 01-11-2012, 02:39 PM   #1
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clear coat removal

I am wanting to re-paint my rig and do not want to re-paint over the clear coat. For those of you who have re-painted, how did you remove your clear coat, or did you take everything down to the metal? I was trying not to do that, but I want to hear your process. Thanks!

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Old 01-11-2012, 03:03 PM   #2
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In my experience taking it all the way down is the best as 85-90% of painting process is prep work. Aircraft stripper works wonders (gel one not spray) just be careful with it. Have painted a few cars and I have taken them all the way down and never had any issues with it. Just take your time with it and you will be happy with it.

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Old 01-11-2012, 03:34 PM   #3
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DA sand the whole thing starting with 220 and go to 320. Make sure you spot prime any bare metal and sand those spots.

You should be able to spray (HVLP) your color over the surface after cleaning with acetone.

If you're gonna use rattle cans, well that's a different story. I'm an hvlp guy, not a graffiti tagger.
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Old 01-11-2012, 03:39 PM   #4
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DA sand is the best so you don't get sanding marks. Flat sanding blocks as well for the large areas. After sanding it, hand sand it with 600-1000 grit. Then wipe it down and prime it right away if there is any metal showing anywhere. Once the primer dries, sand that with 1000 grit before you paint over it.

Paint will always look 100% if the surface is prepped right. Most of the flaws you see in any paint job are due to lack of surface preperation.
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Old 01-11-2012, 05:40 PM   #5
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I was told to sand down to 320 or 400 grit max, that way the the paint has some roughness to grab onto. My understanding is wet sanding clear coat starts at 1000 or 1500 if its smooth, and go higher from there. This is what I did when I painted Gracie, and she turned out nice.

Good catch on the sanding block. I forgot about that step.

Prep is def 90% of the job.
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Old 01-11-2012, 06:14 PM   #6
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26 years as a bodyman and painter.... removing down to bare metal is not necessary and you are only asking for problems if you do. you will need to use a good 2k primer for all areas that have been repaired with plastic filler or if you sand through to metal. this only applies if you do not have any lacquer check or poor adhesion of the e-coat. remove all trim, you do not want to mask off any parts that can be removed. next wash the jeep really good including fender wells, then get several red scotch brite pads and a couple cans of ajax and scrub every inch of the jeep paying close attention to body seams and around hinges the rinse well and let drip dry. now do any body work that needs to be done and feather edge the edges with 180 and primer those areas. when dry, block sand the repaired areas and then use 320 and a da to sand the entire jeep( note that there is about a 12 hour window of time that paint has to be applied after final sanding or adhesion will be compromised) . ok now you have it all sanded and masked up use a two part sealer then top coat with either single stage or base clear. remember to use wax and grease remover before you seal it and also use a tack cloth between coats. obviously if you are using single stage do not tack after the first coat, like wise with the clear. back to the issue of sanding down to bare metal, you are only asking for rust issues in the future. moisture is in the air and will cause the bare metal to oxidize, even the salt on the palms of your hands will cause issues if you touch the bare metal. look at my build thread "blue balled build" i am just finishing up my jeep. i painted most of it outside on the side of my house. if you paint outside just be smart about it, early morning is desirable as the wind and bugs are not as active, also wet the floor or as in my case wet the dirt really well before you start spraying. one last tip compressed air produces moisture that if passed through your air lines and paint gun i promise you will get tiny little moisture blisters under the paint that will show up. my advise get a water seperator and a couple of disposable moisture filters that connect directly to your paint gun.... good luck

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