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Dana 30 truss questions

1K views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  w6fu 
#1 ·
Sorry I know this is a dead horse subject but I searched and could find specific answers to my question. I'm building a "dirty 30" and I know all about the shafts, r&p issues ect. please don't tell me to get a 44.

I plan on running 35-36 inch tall and 12.5-14.5 wide tires probably swampers. SUA. Not a regular rock crawler but I play around once in a while. I like to think I wheel aggressively but smart.


How much actual trussing is necessary? Has anyone here actually bent the tubes on a D30 wheeling with 36's? I found some C gussets for about $50, but I can't find a decent truss for the top yj specific.
 
#3 ·
Sorry I don't have much info for you, but I ran 35's on a 30 for years without much issue. I wore my cam bolts out, but your YJ doesn't have them... Also I wheeled the piss out of my rig.


Basically I'm saying I don't think you need to truss your 30 at all.
 
#4 ·
The problem with a 44 is huge price jump from a 30... I plan on stopping at 35-36. I know what everyone says you want bigger later and that true, but after 36's my next step is going to be something like 40's linked and full widths, so the 30 vs 44 will mean very little at that point.


Sua or soa? Not sure how much of a difference that makes but curious.

Anyone else?
 
#5 ·
I've got maybe 10 YJ's on 35's in the club rolling with a d30. None of them are trussed and we do rock crawling. If you want to weld something on there to strengthen it you won't hurt anything, but if you're not beating it on a regular basis I think you'll be fine without.

Don't get me wrong, those guys do break stuff like unit bearings but nobody's bent their junk.
 
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