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Old 12-16-2013, 01:59 PM   #1
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Dana 60 or 44?

Finally looking to do an axle swap on my 90 yj. Have recently put a sbc 406 in it and need a good solid axle to hold up to the power. I've heard good and bad things about both Dana 44s and 60s. Just was wondering if anybody out there has an expert opinion on them or if you run them personally? Would like to know how easy an install it is, which is stronger, better to work on, etc.

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Old 12-16-2013, 02:27 PM   #2
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What tire size do you plan to run?

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Old 12-16-2013, 02:29 PM   #3
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Right now I'm on stock axles and 35s. I plan on keeping this tire size and would probably never go over 38
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Old 12-16-2013, 05:40 PM   #4
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44's will work fine but 60's will be even better
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Old 12-16-2013, 06:07 PM   #5
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What would be a good donor vehicle to get Dana 60s or 44s from. I know 78/79 ford f250s and f350s are popular for Dana 60s. Any other good ones to check out?
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:20 PM   #6
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Depending on the type of wheeling you do, you also want to consider clearance when going to 60s and such. 35s would be a minimum for me if I went to tons. I would lean more towards 38s or 40s to go with that big of 3rd member. Personally...

Dont limit yourself to danas either. Unless you just want them. There are other tons out there that are fully functional and trustworthy. Im a bargain shopper myself...lol
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:31 PM   #7
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37 and below = 44s (must be built)
38 and up = 60s (little more forgiving on the built side of things)

Reason? Ground clearance
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:33 PM   #8
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Depending on the type of wheeling you do, you also want to consider clearance when going to 60s and such. 35s would be a minimum for me if I went to tons. I would lean more towards 38s or 40s to go with that big of 3rd member. Personally...

Dont limit yourself to danas either. Unless you just want them. There are other tons out there that are fully functional and trustworthy. Im a bargain shopper myself...lol
What would you recommend?
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:38 PM   #9
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37 and below = 44s (must be built)
38 and up = 60s (little more forgiving on the built side of things)

Reason? Ground clearance
Ok, so if I were to go to a junkyard what would be the best vehicle to get d44s off of?
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:00 AM   #10
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I personally like the Rodeo Or Honda Passports for the rear were I am located you can not swing a stick without hitting one in a junkyard and most people ignore them for parts.

For the front I am running a Jeep j-truck front end DANA 44 out of a 74 or 78 I forget what year.

If you go with the rodeo get one with 4:10 or 4:56 gears save you some headache regearing the front. 2wd 4bangers came with D44 and 4:10 gears 93-97 year models

Just my .02 cents a lot of forum members have gone the Ford 8.8 route I wanted to be different.

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Old 12-17-2013, 10:49 AM   #11
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I think the J trucks and waggys are only like 5 inches wider than stock so you could make your width match up with a narrower rearend like or 8.8 or a narrower D44 with wheels and spacers...

You can also get hummer wheels that will bring your rubber way back under the jeep. Ive heard of people running full width axles and only tracking 79-80". Im 79" wide on stock axles..
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:52 AM   #12
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Just out of curiosity, what kind of wheeling do you do? Is this thing a dd or just a toy and do you drive it to the trail or trailer it?
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:07 AM   #13
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Just out of curiosity, what kind of wheeling do you do? Is this thing a dd or just a toy and do you drive it to the trail or trailer it?
It is definitely a toy. We have quite a few trails around my area so I do drive to the trails. I take it on a cruise down the road every once in a while, and have not trailered it anywhere yet, but I do plan on trailering it a few hours south in the summer to go to silver lake sand dunes.
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:34 AM   #14
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As long as your not on the rocks a lot and hammering the crap out of it I bet you would be fine with a 8.8 and the 30 for now. Maybe some tj shafts for the D30 if the stock ones break.. Your definitely gonna be able to spin the tires and spinning then grabbing will break any axle at some point. Have you put it on a dyno yet?
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:42 AM   #15
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As long as your not on the rocks a lot and hammering the crap out of it I bet you would be fine with a 8.8 and the 30 for now. Maybe some tj shafts for the D30 if the stock ones break.. Your definitely gonna be able to spin the tires and spinning then grabbing will break any axle at some point. Have you put it on a dyno yet?
No I haven't. I'd like to put it on a dyno just to see what she's got.
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:53 AM   #16
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since your running a hot chevy engine I would run a complete chevy running gear..my badboy cj7 has axles from a m1008,chevy military pickup..they are a 60 front and a 14 bolt rear..they already have 4.56 gears and locking rear..I love them and bet you would too
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Old 12-17-2013, 03:11 PM   #17
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since your running a hot chevy engine I would run a complete chevy running gear..my badboy cj7 has axles from a m1008,chevy military pickup..they are a 60 front and a 14 bolt rear..they already have 4.56 gears and locking rear..I love them and bet you would too
I've actually looked at some military pickups like that. There's a guy near me that parts them out. He has quite a few
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Old 12-17-2013, 05:56 PM   #18
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I've actually looked at some military pickups like that. There's a guy near me that parts them out. He has quite a few
to me,they are the best..heavy duty,already geared w/rear locker and usually have low miles
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Old 12-17-2013, 07:05 PM   #19
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to me,they are the best..heavy duty,already geared w/rear locker and usually have low miles
Sounds good to me. Is it an easy install process or is there still a lot of cutting and welding? And what size tire are you running?
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Old 12-17-2013, 07:50 PM   #20
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My POS has a front '88 - '91.5 Ford F350 kingpin HPD60. To fit it, I outboarded the leaf spring hangers, which IMO isn't hard.

I set the steering up with Artec's Ultimate D60 hysteer arms, RuffStuff 3/4" heims and 1.5" x .250 wall DOM steering links. Easy peasy.

For the rear, I went with a mid 90's (second generation) single rear wheel Chevy 3500 full float 14bolt. I converted the drums to disc's to save ~100#.

I have 2 sets of tires for it. Sticky 39's, and sticky 37's on beadlocks.

With a healthy V8, geared low, I would go with 1 tons, especially if you do go to tallish tires.

Aftermarket support for both the axles I mentioned is excellent.

The HPD60 I mentioned comes stock with 35 spline inners, BIG brakes, driver side drop, flat top kingpin knuckles, and 1/2" thick axle tubes.

The 14B, is full float, stupid strong, and has 1/2" wall axles tubes as well.

WMS-WMS on the front is ~69.25", while the rear is ~67".

I typically play in the big rocks, locked, and run an Atlas 5.0, so strength was a big concern for me.
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:01 PM   #21
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My POS has a front '88 - '91.5 Ford F350 kingpin HPD60. To fit it, I outboarded the leaf spring hangers, which IMO isn't hard.

I set the steering up with Artec's Ultimate D60 hysteer arms, RuffStuff 3/4" heims and 1.5" x .250 wall DOM steering links. Easy peasy.

For the rear, I went with a mid 90's (second generation) single rear wheel Chevy 3500 full float 14bolt. I converted the drums to disc's to save ~100#.

I have 2 sets of tires for it. Sticky 39's, and sticky 37's on beadlocks.

With a healthy V8, geared low, I would go with 1 tons, especially if you do go to tallish tires.

Aftermarket support for both the axles I mentioned is excellent.

The HPD60 I mentioned comes stock with 35 spline inners, BIG brakes, driver side drop, flat top kingpin knuckles, and 1/2" thick axle tubes.

The 14B, is full float, stupid strong, and has 1/2" wall axles tubes as well.

WMS-WMS on the front is ~69.25", while the rear is ~67".

I typically play in the big rocks, locked, and run an Atlas 5.0, so strength was a big concern for me.
Is the 60 and 14B the same bolt pattern?
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:06 PM   #22
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My POS has a front '88 - '91.5 Ford F350 kingpin HPD60. To fit it, I outboarded the leaf spring hangers, which IMO isn't hard.

I set the steering up with Artec's Ultimate D60 hysteer arms, RuffStuff 3/4" heims and 1.5" x .250 wall DOM steering links. Easy peasy.

For the rear, I went with a mid 90's (second generation) single rear wheel Chevy 3500 full float 14bolt. I converted the drums to disc's to save ~100#.

I have 2 sets of tires for it. Sticky 39's, and sticky 37's on beadlocks.

With a healthy V8, geared low, I would go with 1 tons, especially if you do go to tallish tires.

Aftermarket support for both the axles I mentioned is excellent.

The HPD60 I mentioned comes stock with 35 spline inners, BIG brakes, driver side drop, flat top kingpin knuckles, and 1/2" thick axle tubes.

The 14B, is full float, stupid strong, and has 1/2" wall axles tubes as well.

WMS-WMS on the front is ~69.25", while the rear is ~67".

I typically play in the big rocks, locked, and run an Atlas 5.0, so strength was a big concern for me.
Sounds like quite the set up. Do you have plenty of ground clearance running the 37s?
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:28 PM   #23
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Is the 60 and 14B the same bolt pattern?
Yep - 8x6.5
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:38 PM   #24
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Sounds like quite the set up. Do you have plenty of ground clearance running the 37s?
I had forgotten - so I just went out to the garage to check for you.

The 37's are mounted right now @6.5psi and they aren't new.

The rear measured ~10" & the 14B has not been shaved yet.

The front measured ~10.75".
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:45 PM   #25
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I had forgotten - so I just went out to the garage to check for you.

The 37's are mounted right now @6.5psi and they aren't new.

The rear measured ~10" & the 14B has not been shaved yet.

The front measured ~10.75".
So I would be looking at roughly 8" of clearance with 35s...guess if I go 1 ton I'll have to get a bit bigger tire
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:57 PM   #26
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I would too. Plus, I'd step-up to a 17" wheel since you'd be changing the wheel bolt pattern.

Also, something to consider is the wheel backspacing, especially if you want to run a hysteer arm like the Artec Ultimate. Reason being - the Artec arm steps-outwards so that you can tie the Artec arm onto the stock steering arm which adds a lot of strength.

Here's a couple pics of mine so you can see what I mean. If the wheel backspacing wasn't taken into account, it could contact the steering arm. IIRC, there's ~3/8" clearance between the arm & the wheel.



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Old 12-17-2013, 09:16 PM   #27
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I would too. Plus, I'd step-up to a 17" wheel since you'd be changing the wheel bolt pattern.

Also, something to consider is the wheel backspacing, especially if you want to run a hysteer arm like the Artec Ultimate. Reason being - the Artec arm steps-outwards so that you can tie the Artec arm onto the stock steering arm which adds a lot of strength.

Here's a couple pics of mine so you can see what I mean. If the wheel backspacing wasn't taken into account, it could contact the steering arm. IIRC, there's ~3/8" clearance between the arm & the wheel.
That artec arm is pretty cool. How much does something like that run?
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:39 PM   #28
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Hmm, I don't recall. I *may* have gotten it as a gift. Not sure.

Nate (guy who runs Artec) regularly runs specials/forum discounts. I'm not sure if he's a vendor here.
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:42 PM   #29
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KrawlOffRoad carries Artec stuff. So you may want to contact them for a deal, or look them up elsewhere.

Artec Industries now at KrawlOff-Road.com
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:39 AM   #30
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Sounds good to me. Is it an easy install process or is there still a lot of cutting and welding? And what size tire are you running?
biggest part of the job is outboarding the spring hangers but to me it is well worth it..I run the 37 inch military good years..they work great,ride good,handle good and last.. plus I can buy a complete set of them for less than what 1 tire of that size normally costs

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