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Old 04-28-2014, 07:51 PM   #1
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Floor pan replacement or patch?

I have a pretty nice. Well a couple pretty nice rust holes in my drivers side floor pan. I know that I have two options get a new floor pan for my 93 yj which is 35$ or I can get some metal and patch it. Is the tar type adhesive that everyone says to use as good as a weld job?
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:49 PM   #2
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I would deffinitely get the floor pan and not just a patch. Because the rust will stretch further than just the holes you see.

And I'm assuming you mean the seam sealer stuff they used from the factory. I've never used it in person but its holding up well on every one of these jeeps I've seen. So I would tack the new pan in at each corner then use seam sealer all the way around. And I would put it all the way around the under side as well.

I'm pretty sure there's some write ups online where they used seam sealer.

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Old 05-01-2014, 07:30 PM   #3
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What is the tar type adhesive called
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:53 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simonclay View Post
I would deffinitely get the floor pan and not just a patch. Because the rust will stretch further than just the holes you see.

And I'm assuming you mean the seam sealer stuff they used from the factory. I've never used it in person but its holding up well on every one of these jeeps I've seen. So I would tack the new pan in at each corner then use seam sealer all the way around. And I would put it all the way around the under side as well.

I'm pretty sure there's some write ups online where they used seam sealer.
I agree with Simon
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:09 AM   #5
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I just did the entire floor pan (drivers side) in my 94 YJ. Cut out all the rust, trim the pan to size with sheers or a grinder, fit it in position and either do a bunch of tack welds or rivet it in place and hit it with seam sealer.
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:25 AM   #6
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Not a good idea to use aluminum rivets. Aluminum and steel don't coexist very well.

With the rivet method, at some point the only thing holding the patch on will be the seam sealer.
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Old 05-02-2014, 01:43 PM   #7
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if you can't weld it get some 3M panel adhesive.
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Old 05-02-2014, 03:18 PM   #8
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Thanks for all the info and pointers. Still haven't decided which way to tackle this problem yet. Would the floor pan and some self tapping screws and seam sealer be enough? (Don't want to pay my "guy" just to tac weld 4 corners). I'll also add that I'm going to rhino or Herculine the whole inside after to avoid anymore rust issues.
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Old 05-02-2014, 03:36 PM   #9
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The self tapping screws will work in combo with the 3m seam sealer.

The question is, will it be able to pass state inspection after you patch the holes like that? In Pa. the inspection laws have changed, and they state that if you can visibly see a patched area either in the cab compartment or the frame, then the vehicle is no longer inspectable. The reason that the floor pans that you buy are pre-stamped and go from 1 seam to the other. To be welded in.

Just letting you know before you put all kinds of time and money into it, and have to turn around and have it done right. Maybe your state is different. Laws vary from state to state.
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Old 05-02-2014, 06:27 PM   #10
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So glad I live in a state that has no inspections whatsoever, I would be walkin to work lol
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:22 AM   #11
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Old 05-05-2014, 07:55 PM   #12
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Just had mine done yesterday, they came out great. I'm going to coat the entire floor with POR15 then bed line it.

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Old 05-06-2014, 08:22 AM   #13
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Nice job @roscoe124 I just did mine last week


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Old 05-06-2014, 05:33 PM   #14
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3m panel bond adhesive

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Originally Posted by roadyrob View Post
if you can't weld it get some 3M panel adhesive.
totally agree with roadyrob, been a bodyman for close to thirty years.... Panel bond is an approved ICAR repair method for replacing quarter panels and bed sides to name a few
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Old 05-09-2014, 02:34 AM   #15
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That's going to be my next project. Found both panels on ebay for $75. The. As soon as that's done I'm ripping out the carpet and put bedliner on the whole floor

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