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Old 08-30-2008, 09:28 PM   #1
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Frankenstein must die!!!

OK gang... Well, it's time I started looking at lifts. My Jeep was the unwilling recipient of a less than adequate lift. The shackles measure 6.5" at the center of the bolt holes. If I'm doing my math right, that's about a 3.25" lift. The shackles on the front don't fit right. And it looks to me that the Jeep has the wrong front springs on it. These look like CJ springs. And to top things off, the bushings are ALL shot! Look at the lean on this one! Jesus, that looks dangerous! It actually looks worse on film than it does in real life!




The disconnects are too short and I need to upgrade the steering and steering stabilizer.


The rear shackles are the exact same ones as on the front.


Look at this transfer drop! Must have had some killer vibrations or wobble after the shackles were put on!


And one of the bushings are missing!


Anyway, I wanna start out with a decent lift. I have been doing some research and have a few in mind but, I'd like to hear what others are running and why they chose or like that particular lift.

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Old 08-30-2008, 09:29 PM   #2
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Coilovers.

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Old 08-30-2008, 09:47 PM   #3
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those do look like cj leafs... very narrow. Its been a long time since i've had my YJ but when I did have it I put a 4" procomp suspension with 1 1/4 taller than stock shackles from con-ferr. the shocks were also procomp. the lfit lasted a very long time (when i sold it a few yrs ago was still in like new condition). put it on in 1995 and never sagged. the bushings were polyurathane and were still great when I sold the jeep. I didn't do much rockcrawling with it... was mostly for exploring and some texas mud.
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Old 08-30-2008, 09:50 PM   #4
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I goot nuthin fer ya, but I'm gonna hafta contribute a big ol' Yikes! on those pictures. I hope you hauled the TV home in Tiny's Jeep? In fact, I hope you aren't endangering anyone else by allowing passengers in that contraption!
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Old 08-30-2008, 11:15 PM   #5
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I goot nuthin fer ya, but I'm gonna hafta contribute a big ol' Yikes! on those pictures. I hope you hauled the TV home in Tiny's Jeep? In fact, I hope you aren't endangering anyone else by allowing passengers in that contraption!
Yeah...hehehehe. I have an appointment at the DMV on the 9th to finally get it on the road. It's been setting here for quite a while. I do run it, but only thru the apartment complex. If you look close at the heads of those bolts in the shackles... Well, they're grade 5 not grade 8. I just know, if I ran it this way, one of them would snap.

And yes, we did haul the TV home in tiny's Jeep.... Should have seen it. Took out the back seat, had to roll the passenger seat forward and I rode in the back with the TV.
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Old 08-30-2008, 11:18 PM   #6
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If you look close at the heads of those bolts in the shackles... Well, they're grade 5 not grade 8. I just know, if I ran it this way, one of them would snap.
Probably a safe bet..

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And yes, we did haul the TV home in tiny's Jeep.... Should have seen it. Took out the back seat, had to roll the passenger seat forward and I rode in the back with the TV.
PLEASE tell me you got some pictures of that!?
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Old 08-30-2008, 11:40 PM   #7
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PLEASE tell me you got some pictures of that!?

HAHAHAHAHA... Nope!
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Old 08-31-2008, 03:04 AM   #8
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OK, well... I'm sick and I can't sleep, so I did a little research.

Unlimited had stopped by some time ago and we discussed lifts briefly. He suggested shackle relocation for the front and a spring over conversion.

I found a company that offers a SOA conversion with just about everything you need except for a SYE and a longer front drive shaft.

Looks as though for flex (short of going coil-over) this is the way to go.

Has anyone had any dealings with these folks?

Rocky Road

From what I read, there is no welding involved and the kit (chuckle) installs quickly.
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You can begin installation in the morning and be wheeling by that afternoon!
I chuckle because... well, see, me and Murphy go way back and his law ALWAYS applies to ANYTHING I touch!

I do question whether or not I need a 6.5" lift. The largest tire I can run comfortably on the Sarge with his 4cyl is about a 33. Anything else and I may as well just walk where I'm going... I'd get there faster. Not to mention the strain on the brakes and the diffs.
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Old 08-31-2008, 06:21 AM   #9
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when you do the lift, lose the trac bars... you don't need them with leafs..
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:17 AM   #10
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My web wheeling has told me to avoid Rocky Road Outfitters at all costs. They don't have a good reputation for delivering parts to their customers after the parts have been paid for.
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:44 AM   #11
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My web wheeling has told me to avoid Rocky Road Outfitters at all costs. They don't have a good reputation for delivering parts to their customers after the parts have been paid for.
Thanks Scout... That's what I needed to know!

They claim to be cheaper than everyone and from what I've seen, their kit is just as expensive (once you get all the "required" parts) as a good old Rubicon Express setup. And, I'm thinking that I should just stick with my original lift plans.

I want "safe" and "reliable" plus I'd like to not wait a million years to get this stuff!

Looks like there is some crazy chit out there! I looked at the intrawebs pretty hard last night and found all kinds of crazy crap. Fabtech has this freakin 8" coil over set up that looks nice, but damn... And, I've never really liked Fabtech personally... And, there are a bunch of guys that have done a 3/4 elliptical set up that just looks fragile, dangerous and "Not street legal" to me.

I'm not going to be attacking any trails where I have to scale vertical cliffs, so my setup doesn't need to articulate 90 degrees and have 4 wheel steering with tires made out of that stuff they made those wall sticking octopusses out of.

So... 3.5 inch lift is the way I'm thinking of going.
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:49 AM   #12
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hey ccain, nice contraption, i've never seen anything like that before. soa w/ 33" is a great set up. i ran that on my old yj and i could stuff those 33's into the fender and somehow still rub the flare, thats how much it will flex. and as far as bolt on soa i don't like them. and by my memory of that kit you're looking at, the stock perches stay underneath, and some bolts or something hang way down. kinda defeats the purpose, soa gives you all kinds of ground clearance.

you can make perches, or buy just perches, and weld them on thats a better way to go. lose the rear trac bar for sure, both if you want. when getting quick discos you don't want longer ones if you're going soa, stock length is right, cuz the distance from the sway bar to the frame is actually getting closer, not longer.

you will need new springs obviously, and i'd do just stock shackles with soa. best on and off road set up for leaf spring suspension.
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:51 AM   #13
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elliptical are definately not road worthy, coil over is crazy expensive.
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Old 09-01-2008, 12:35 AM   #14
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elliptical are definately not road worthy, coil over is crazy expensive.
Yeah... I kinda got chills when I looked at some of the pictures on the web. WOW!

Today, I ordered the first bit of safety equipment. I have to replace the seat belts. The PO had the old ones tied in a knot and the retractors lock up at inopportune times and lock me to the seat. So, I got on-line and ordered them. I also ordered up some grab handles and a few other things.

The research continues, but until I make the "Big Dollar" purchases, I'm gonna continue to basically restore the little things wrong with the Jeep.
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Old 09-01-2008, 12:55 AM   #15
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Cain... what are you looking to spend on the lift? I've read lots of good thing about RE's YJ lifts. They seem to have some of the better spring packs out there.

Is there really any advantage to a spring over lift compared to keeping it spring under? Other than the easy 3" that you gain?
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Old 09-01-2008, 02:05 AM   #16
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Cain... what are you looking to spend on the lift? I've read lots of good thing about RE's YJ lifts. They seem to have some of the better spring packs out there.

Is there really any advantage to a spring over lift compared to keeping it spring under? Other than the easy 3" that you gain?

Well, I have my eye on the RE 4.5" Extreme Duty lift with OME shocks. I've pretty much narrowed it down to that. I'm also gonna do a SYE and a CV drive shaft.
After looking at everything I could look at on the web and in magazines, this seems like the best choice for me. Right now I lack the equipment to be able to properly weld the spring gussets and what not to do a SOA so I'm gonna opt for the out of the box, bolt on stuff. Plus (and I have been welding for quite a few years) my welds never satisfy me and the SOA lift I would want to do would eat at my compulsion and ruin the fun of the Jeep. I would worry about it every time I took it out, and with this one, I intend to have as much fun as I can. So, simple, rugged and reliable are the way I'm gonna go and RE looks like the perfect fit.
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Old 09-01-2008, 07:52 AM   #17
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I know you have some concerns about tire size w/ the 4 cyl, but I was just looking at some old flattie pics, since you are going for an army theme anyhow, I'll bet you could turn some larger tires if they were skinnier ag-style tires like the oldies ran. I'm not sure if they'd work for your type of wheelin out there, but it just occured to me, thought I'd mention it..
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Old 09-01-2008, 03:29 PM   #18
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you could get some 43 9.50 inteco's with the 4 cyl that wouldnt be to bad and i think of all the lifts out there i heard that RE and bds were the best but the soa would be the optimal set up
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Old 09-01-2008, 05:48 PM   #19
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OK, here's a question for you all. My vacuum motor (I'm shocked) is shot as were the lines going to it.

I looked into a Posi Loc Cable set up but, I wonder what the deal is with disconnecting it? Other than being able to drive in 2 low which I would probably never do anyway.

I mean, TJ's have a solid axle up there. And when I read what people are saying about just locking the thing in the "ON" position all the time, I see all kind of "tire wear" and "reduced gas mileage" responses.... If a TJ "X" has a Dana 30 with a solid axle and doesn't have those issues, why would a Dana 30 with axle shaft locked in the "ON" position in a YJ create those issues? The front axle isn't engaged until you put the transfer in 4wd anyway...

Granted, I am gonna be upgrading to the TJ axles in the near future for the beefier u-joints, but for now, I'm thinking of locking it on.
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Old 09-01-2008, 06:53 PM   #20
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I'll be interested to see what people have to say on this, having never had a vehicle w/ locking hubs, I just don't get the purpose..
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:55 PM   #21
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its only purpose was gas mileage. lock it in, or do whatever you want.
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Old 09-01-2008, 09:07 PM   #22
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its only purpose was gas mileage. lock it in, or do whatever you want.
Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinking... So, having said that, I found an item on line:



But, they want $80 for it. I was thinking of taking apart the actuator and placing a compression spring behind the fork to keep it in the "engaged" position.
I figured it would be better to use a spring so that there is some residual movement on the fork to allow for any kind of binding that could do damage.
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Old 09-02-2008, 12:01 AM   #23
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But then you are still going to have a 2-piece axle. You can lock it an be fine, because the diff is still open... not like a locker. I don't see how it could effect gas mileage or tire wear.

You could(although requiring welding) get a D30 out from a '93(?)+ XJ and be set.
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Old 09-02-2008, 01:00 AM   #24
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But then you are still going to have a 2-piece axle. You can lock it an be fine, because the diff is still open... not like a locker. I don't see how it could effect gas mileage or tire wear.

You could(although requiring welding) get a D30 out from a '93(?)+ XJ and be set.
Yeah, I can't figure how it could effect gas mileage either. There is that whole "reverse cut differential" thing but, a diff is a diff is a diff... If it's not locked, I don't see the issue. Oh well, we'll find out soon enough.

I read on Stu's site that you can just change out the axle shafts with those from a TJ with a Dana 30 adding new seals and capping off the hole where the vacuum motor used to be.

YJ - TJ D30 axle shaft conversion
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Old 09-03-2008, 04:47 PM   #25
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Well, just as soon as it cools down a little outside, I'm off to fix the CAD.

I went to Home Depot and picked up an assorted pack of compression springs. One seems to be the exact one to fit the application. I'll post up some pics as soon as I get things rolling.

If this works, I will have done an $80 job for about 2 quid.
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Old 09-03-2008, 05:26 PM   #26
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Well that took all of 15 minutes...

Here's the offending part:



I dissected it:



Everything inside looked fine, no wear on the fork anywhere. So I stuck the spring and the first c-clip on the shaft, wormed it thru the housing and put the other clips on.



Bob's your uncle, there is just enough movement to accommodate any binding but not enough to disengage the collar.
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Old 09-03-2008, 05:30 PM   #27
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very cool, i like the way you think. and i do believe somehow they are convinced that the little less rolling resistance of having that half of the axle engaged was worth all that.

who's idea was that, chrysler??

nice work man
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Old 09-03-2008, 05:33 PM   #28
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very cool, i like the way you think. and i do believe somehow they are convinced that the little less rolling resistance of having that half of the axle engaged was worth all that.

who's idea was that, chrysler??

nice work man
Thanks Dave!
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Old 09-03-2008, 06:23 PM   #29
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Just went out and did a little "Apartment Complex Wheelin'" to test drive it. Works fine. And I have to say, that transfer case shifts like buttah! Where did Jeep go wrong with the TJ? My TJ and tiny's doesn't shift that smooth!
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Old 09-03-2008, 06:42 PM   #30
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Just went out and did a little "Apartment Complex Wheelin'" to test drive it. Works fine. And I have to say, that transfer case shifts like buttah! Where did Jeep go wrong with the TJ? My TJ and tiny's doesn't shift that smooth!
Probably because neither your TJ nor Tiny's TJ are that old and the chain, shit fork, and planetary's haven't been in there for that many years yet. My case gets shifted quite often with the amount of wheelin I do and even with my 4:1 it all shifts just fine.

So Cain, what size tires are you wanting to run before you have to start re-gearing?

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