HI. i'm new to jeeps, had mine for just a few weeks now.
wanted to join the forum to share and find out more about fixing on yj's.
i've lurked around the wf for a while, and in my long search have yet to find this out: how do you pull out the ecu when the factory put it behind the glovebox?
any input that doesn't include plasma cutters, oxy-acetylene, or 3/4" chain will be welcome.
what year yj. are you sure it's behind the glove box. jeep guy in town told my neighbor his was there too. he stripped the whole dash. no ecu. look behind the windshield washer tank on the firewall first. mike
nah, nothing behind the washer reservoir except for a couple things...
paint & sheet metal.
there is, however, a shiny box behind the glovebox with stickers on it that say "Bendix" with barcodes and alphanumeric crapola. and there's a big black connector that goes down the driver side of the box, which won't budge to save its life. 3 screws hold it in its mounting bracket. pictures from catalogues of replacement ECUs have similar screw layout/locations. aside from sawzall-attacking the heater box, how does the ECU get removed?
welcome to another yj. the ecu on my 87 was just laying behind the glove box when i tore my jeep down....i guess someone already expereinced the fun and just left it sitting out nice and easy.
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i found out over the weekend that it's really easy to take out this ecu. 2 nuts on the engine side of the firewall and one screw are all that hold the ecu behind the glovebox. the nuts are located right next to the ignition control module. the screw is basically in your face. the ecu harness is wedged onto the connector on one side, with a release clip on the firewall side. the ecu is locked inside its own box with T10 torx bolts. my unit had a nice coating, some sort of plastic or epoxy. my windshield frame has a fat rusty hole on the passenger side, big enough to let lots and lots of rain in. the rain doesn't bother with blocked-up drain holes; i've found that it prefers to go into the ecu box. here, the rain can react with the blow-through connectors on the ecu and the aluminum box to create everyone's friend- the short circuit. so far, the ecu thinks that its no longer friends with the manifold air temperature sensor; diagnostics say that the MATS has taken a dump. for this, i was sure that the ecu was fried... until i looked at the MATS and found it to appear rather bar-b-que-ish. a new unit is enroute, and hopefully the ECU has survived it's scuba diving excursion. this may seem totally pointless, but i drilled some holes for drainage in the ECU box bottom before i applied RTV to the lid... and yes, i let the RTV set up completely before mating the lid to the box bottom. now, *IF* anything leaks in, it'll have a drainage route. next after i get the thing running will be a new windshield frame combined with a spic-and-span drainage tube.