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Old 09-14-2011, 04:20 PM   #1
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Mechanic says new motor, what do y'all say?

First off thanks in advance for any help, I have a 1990 4.2L stock engine,
I have a tapping sound coming from the engine. Mechanic said about $2000 for a new (rebuilt) 4.2 Long block, but i have the usual jeepers account of not much . The mechanic, pretty good place from what I have heard from 3 of my co-workers, says it could be a lifter, connecting rod, etc. The Jeep runs great, no actual problems other than noise and a busted muffler ( i know how this happened and am working on it ).

So fellow yj'ers what should I do here? Any help would be great, if I can fix it I would love too as I have another child on the way, or should I just hope for the best and save up the 2000? Warning, I am not a mechanic.

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Old 09-14-2011, 04:41 PM   #2
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engine swap to a 4.0l

buy a 1990 or newer XJ with a 4.0 and drop that puppy in with the PFI
Probably be cheaper then your 4.2L

I wont vote because IMO: both of your options are too expensive compared to what you end up with.

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Old 09-14-2011, 05:01 PM   #3
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Run it til it quits.
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:03 PM   #4
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Blast music really loud.
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:09 PM   #5
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I have been doing the music . I been doing searching around and a bolt is missing from the part the transmission meets the engine underneath, sorry no idea what its called, like I said not a mechanic, could this be the cause?
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95yamjam
run it til it quits.
x2
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95yamjam
run it til it quits.
x3
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:32 PM   #8
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Can you wrench yourself? If so, drop your oilpan and check the rod bearing clearances. If it is a rod bearing (or more than one) as long as the crank isn't damaged, just replace them with the right sized bearing. Does the sound come from up top or is it "deep" sounding, perhaps near the bottom?

I know the rod bearings are prone to wear, so definitely something to check.
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:40 PM   #9
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get another opinion the mechanic should be able to tell the difference between a connecting rod rattle and a lifter rattle
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:05 PM   #10
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Sounds to me to be from the upper motor towards the front (grill) I used a stethiscope and that's where it sounded loudest.
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:00 PM   #11
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Sounds to me to be from the upper motor towards the front (grill) I used a stethiscope and that's where it sounded loudest.

Thats a definate run it til it quits x a billion zillion. Might try running some seafoam thru it and see what that does at the most.
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:15 PM   #12
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get another opinion the mechanic should be able to tell the difference between a connecting rod rattle and a lifter rattle

I must say that's the thing to do !
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:45 PM   #13
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Has this mechanic tried to adjust the lifters and after adjustment made this declaration? Or is he just trying to make a diagnosis without ever having touched it?
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Old 09-15-2011, 05:28 AM   #14
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run it till it dies. I thought mine had a wierd noise, then I heard somr others, Mines normal.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:45 AM   #15
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Has this mechanic tried to adjust the lifters and after adjustment made this declaration? Or is he just trying to make a diagnosis without ever having touched it?
He said he listened to it and said that it was somewhere inside the motor, he didn't really specify where or upper or lower engine. It was a free diagnostic so I didn't expect too much
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:52 AM   #16
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He said he listened to it and said that it was somewhere inside the motor, he didn't really specify where or upper or lower engine. It was a free diagnostic so I didn't expect too much
Without breaking it apart, it's tough. Although any mechanic worth his sauce can usually tell the difference between a lifter and a rod bearing. From what you have described my guess would be a lifter which is now flattening out a cam lobe.

Run it till it quits
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:10 AM   #17
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Agree it might be a lifter. Try running seafoam thru the oil and gas, maybe some lucas oil stabilizer in the oil. Honestly if it's a tapping it's not really a concern at this point. Rod bearings are kind of a specific sound and sound more like a knock on the door imho. My 4cyl in my jeep sounds like it's coming apart sometimes. At 180k miles it uses very little oil It runs great so...

Quick story, guy i know with a 6.0 chevy motor has a tapping, knocking. The 6.0 is a pretty notorius engine for piston slap, tapping sounds. They can run forever. I have 160k on mine and it has had a tap since 80k. Anyway the guy pays 3k to have a junk yard motor put in and guess what? Same noise. Mechanic says he's baffled.

Moral of the story? Run it til' it quits then upgrade it. Broken record, i know.

I will say, start putting money away for the replace/rebuild, that way if you need it then you have it. If not then you can use the money for something else someday.

Even $20-30 a month adds up.
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:27 AM   #18
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Thanks guys for all the help, I am just going to research the price of replacing cams and lifters and if that doesn't fix it, then I will just get a louder exhaust and louder speakers
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:28 AM   #19
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The add to my post ... if it is indeed a lifter and you are on a budget ... you can have someone replace the cam, lifters, and pushrods for a fairly reasonable price. It can even be done without actually pulling the motor (although the radiator and grille would need to come out). Just food for thought.
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:34 AM   #20
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Quote:
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get another opinion the mechanic should be able to tell the difference between a connecting rod rattle and a lifter rattle
x2
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Old 09-15-2011, 03:26 PM   #21
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That YJ is going to run a long time like that. After awhile they will make some noise. Throw a little STP or equivalent in there and see if that helps. Keep running it and save your $.
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Old 09-15-2011, 06:12 PM   #22
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Thanks guys, you all seem to have a lot of faith in your yjs so why should mine be different, not used to this at all. I'm used to changing vehicles every six months for no reason, but something about this jeep makes me want to keep it. Curse of a jeep I guess
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Old 09-15-2011, 06:30 PM   #23
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easiest way to tell if it is a lifter, turn the jeep on and while it is still cold go to the front of the jeep and pull the throttle cable slowly and see what the noise does, if it starts to go away at around 1200-2000 rpms it is more than likely a lifter, the oil pump is driven by the engine so the engine turning faster will turn the oil pump faster, therefore increasing oil pressure, and if it is a bad lifter the increase in oil pressure will force oil into the lifter, however if the noise is consistant with engine speed or doesnt change with higher RPM then start looking at your rod bearings (or it could be a cracked exhaust manifold gasket or something like that)
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Old 09-15-2011, 07:08 PM   #24
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A rod bearing makes a double knock. If you suspect that's the case, you can pull ignition wires one at a time, when you reach to the bad cylinder it will stop or at least noticeably lessen the noise. Whether that's the case or something else, don't waste your money on STP, Techron, Seafoam, etc. That stuff works ok for keeping the engine cleaner over time, but it'll do nothing for a mechanical problem.

If it's coming from the front of the engine, don't rule out a worn timing chain. If it has a ton of mileage on it, they can get so slack that they tap against the inside of the timing case.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:46 PM   #25
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Drive it,my 95 YJ has a wrist pin tapping and the radio drowns it out just fine
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:48 PM   #26
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Under hard acceleration at low RPM's a bad crank bearing will knock, on deceleration from mid RPM's a rod bearing will knock, if it rattles all the time it's probably a lifter!
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:53 PM   #27
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Runner till she pukes Jonny!! or at least till they figure out what the problem is..
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Old 10-10-2011, 12:29 PM   #28
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My sister has a Liberty that sounded like a rod was coming through. She took it to a DEALER who told her a new engine was in order, AFTER they tore the top off it. Didn't want to fork out the 4k they wanted so had it hauled to my brother's house. While we were looking for a used engine, he discovered all that was wrong was a dead lifter - a 20$ part.
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:53 PM   #29
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Make this an opportunity to open the engine up and begin a 4.0 head/intake swap.
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Old 10-10-2011, 02:06 PM   #30
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Just for now, change the oil & use a full quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer in place of one of the quarts of oil. This will help for now & help protect the other internal parts of the motor. Run it 'till it quits, but wouldn't be a bad idea to get a second & third opinion as well.

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