Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

More tuff choices...

1K views 8 replies 6 participants last post by  Felsengleiskette 
#1 ·
Ok, im about 50- 60 % done w/ rebuilding the 350 which im swapping into my rig. I had the block tanked, tapped all bolt holes, new crank, main bearings, rod bearings, put in a hi- vol oil pump, new dynagear double roller timing (which will later switch to gear drive), edelbrock performer cam-lifters @1500-6500 rpm lift .488" intake .510" exhaust, in duration 308, out duration 318. I rebuilt one 76cc head (putting off the other- I hate head work) still need intake man. & carb... ANYWAY, I found out from Aztj (thanks) that i should upgrade to dana 44's instead of beefing up my current axles. I should start by saying presently my jeep is a 2.4!!!!:doh: so, ax-5 trans dana 30's blah, blah, blah. I new i had to replace the trans to at least the ax15; so here starts my questions (im long winded i know...): what would be my most economical, but wisest choice...:from the 350 back should i, A:) get a bellhousing adapter from novak and use a ax15 auto-or manual and the stock transfer case to hook up w/ the dana 44's, or B:) get a chvy trans & transfer case to hook up w/ the dana 44's:confused: I, like everyone else want the most bang for the buck! I have limited finances... (9 month old) so id be doing the craigs list choices or junk yards for either route. So whats my best choice? or is their an even better solution ? any input would be great. And also does anybody know if the cam info i gave is sutable for off-road peramiters? (cam choice was selected from a friend into racing, not wheelin' and i didnt have a clue, but i told him i was'nt into top end power rather low to mid range. - thanks!
 
See less See more
#3 ·
I can't help you with the gear selection but as for the cam it depends on your driving style an idle to 5500 rpm cam would fit me better because I do alot of idling when trail riding, your base rpm for that cam will be slightly higher than a stock cam.
As for the trans and transfer case I would go with the chevy combo from something with a 350 because they should hold up well behind the 350 and chevy parts are usually fairly easy to get and cheap.
My opinion would be to go with an auto tranny with a higher stall torque converter to match the cam.
 
#4 ·
will mounting all the chevy components ( tranny) require welding, and different belly pan? or is there a bolt on adapter kit? thanks for your help.
 
#5 ·
My favorite subject..........:D. Are you going to use this as a DD, or just a trail rig?
If it is going to be a trail rig, you do not want a carburetor. You will definately want to use fuel injection. As far as mating your engine to transmission, and transfer case, it will much easier to use Chevy parts. With the V8, the most popular gearing for your axles would be 4:56, and that also depends on the transfer case your going to use. Oh so much to consider. I would highly suggest using a transfer case, that will give you at least a 4:1 reduction in 4low, such as an Atlas, or Stak. Lots more info here, if you want it......:D
 
#6 ·
In my opinion, Definitely do not go with the Ax-15 behind a 350, that will cause tons of problems later on. Do it right the first time. The easiest would probably to go with a Chevy auto trans th350-700r-4L60. Manuals are harder to control on the trail but more fun in my opinion. some cheap manuals would be Sm465-sm420 these are very cheap in junk yards about $100 or you could use a nv3550(easy mate with dana300) or a NV4500:punk:

There are just so many choices, But that is half the fun.

You should give advanced adapters a call. They know everything! Well maybe not everything but a lot!

I did a NV4500 swap into mine without welding and used the same skid plate to mount on, but its different for every app.
 
#7 ·
92Jeep YJ is right. Advance Adapters is well worth a call. I also agree with others above. Chevy parts will hold up better and they will be cheaper for those of us on a budget. Simplicity and minimal modification will get you on the trail sooner....but don't just settle for the quickest approach. As any red blooded male will tell you bigger and stronger is always better!
 
#8 ·
That's a pretty aggressive cam profile. You will need really steep gears if using big tires.
Anything over.5 lift is a lot for anything on the street. I may be wrong, but the valve springs should be upgraded. Power isn't going to come on until probably 2500+.
This is my experience from building Mopar small blocks for street rods YMMV.!
 
#9 ·
whoa,... i need tons of more info!!!!!!!!!! it is my daily driver so i am using carb... i know that will have issues on dusty trails...but anyways. who ever has done work on a 350 block or any block for that matter, i need help with getting my connecting rods not to bind up! ive done everything and i cant get these buggers to crank freely. thanks
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top