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Old 01-25-2017, 11:51 PM   #1
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I myself run castrol gtx 10-30. It's done me good so far I've run it in all my rigs for years. I've never had it cause a problem that the engine didn't already have. Let me know your picks and why you use it.
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Old 01-26-2017, 09:33 AM   #2
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I use a 15w-40 diesel oil. This was an experiment to see if it would help with a ticking noise in the engine.. I believe the noise to be a failing lifter because when the oil pressure is up, the noise disappears. However in a cold start, it ticks like crazy for a second or two until the oil pressure rises. I believe the heavier oil is helping, but did not solve my problem. Might have to break down and replace the lifters when time allows...

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Old 01-26-2017, 11:01 AM   #3
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I run Castrol as well. I find it's popular for older rigs with engines that may not have been well-maintained in the past.

With our 05 Toyota van, we just switched to Penzoil Platinum Full Synthetic. That's what I recommend to people when they ask me to change their oil on a newer vehicle, or extremely well-maintained vehicle.

Our 07 Hyundai runs on the cheap Penzoil, because my dad hates it and National Oil is no longer available.
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Old 01-26-2017, 11:18 AM   #4
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I rarely use anything heavier than 5w-30. All 30's have the same viscosity at normal operating temp. Running the 5w reduces dry start wear since it is thinner at room temp. To me, the brand does not matter too much. But I tend to use Valvoline. My MC on the other hand is air cooled and has a wet clutch. This translates to a higher operating temp, so it gets 5w-50. Nice and thin at room temp and a good viscosity at its normal operating temp.

Check out "Bob is the oil guy" if you want to see more about oils and their viscosity. Very good info.
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Old 01-26-2017, 11:47 AM   #5
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Generally use Mobil1. Light viscosities for the Jeep, heavier for tow vehicles.
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Old 01-26-2017, 01:12 PM   #6
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I'm a big fan of Valvoline. When I was working on my master's degree, I did a study on oil viscosity across about a dozen brands of 10W-30 ranging from big name to store brand. They are by far the best "budget oil" for oil viscosity. At about 70F they all flow pretty much the same, virtually no difference. When it goes cold, the oil flows much better than most of the other name brands. The only ones that were better that I found were the Castrol synthetic blends and Amsoil. At the time I was able to also find some independent data about lubricity, and Valvoline was again in the top ranks. Not the best, but still better than 90% of the competition.

Granted that was all over a decade ago (2002-2003) time frame, so there have probably been changes since then.
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Old 01-26-2017, 05:24 PM   #7
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Interesting! Though oil has changed in the past 30 years almost as much as computers have, it's still probably quite relevant. I do agree that Valvoline probably has the best value when it's broken down to price and quality.
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Old 01-26-2017, 09:46 PM   #8
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I like what I'm hearing. I like to hear other people put as much thought into something as simple as what kind of oil they use. Interesting stuff.
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Old 01-28-2017, 02:25 AM   #9
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I'm originally from Houston Texas and down there is a company called Lubrizol. A friend of mine worked for Lubrizol which is a company that specializes in blending all the major oils adding detergents and other non-wear additives. He told me that of all the oils they blend only Castrol would send people out to pull samples and make sure their product was being blended to their specifications.

Since then only Castrol for over 30 years for me.

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Old 01-28-2017, 10:17 AM   #10
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I have been using Valvoline almost exclusively since the 70's. That being said, I'm currently using Mercruiser 25-50 in my 4.0.
When I got it, the oil pressure was zero at idle( Honda dealer had used 0wt when they serviced it). Changed it to 20-50 Valvoline and got the pressure back. 65 cold, 20 at idle and 45 down the road.
This engine had not had a lot of TLC. The valve cover was packed with crusty burned oil when I opened it up to change the rocker arms and gasket. Cheap oil and infrequent changes. It still has a fair amount of piston and valve train noise at start up. The Mercruiser oil did help with that due to it's high cling properties( it doesn't all run back to the oil pan as readily as other oils).
I'm currently building up a replacement engine. It will be broken in on Valvoline VR1 30wt and then switched to synthetic.
FYI: Valvoline and NAPA oils both come from Ashland Oil Co.
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Old 01-30-2017, 12:58 AM   #11
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I typically use Napa oil. Which is rebranded Valvoline. Valvoline meets or exceeds manufacturer spec for all of my vehicles. Be sure to use a quality oil filter too. I use the Napa oil filters. Most of the Napa filters are rebranded Wix filters. Wix Meets or Exceeds OEM spec. Do not use any type of filter that claims "High Quality". They never state what "High Quality" means. It must Meet or Exceed OEM Spec.

I've seen some oils induce large amounts of sludge despite normal maintenance. Oil spec has changed alot. No idea which is best right now.
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Old 01-31-2017, 06:58 PM   #12
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I use Castrol Magnatec and a Purolator Filter. Have used Castrol in all of my vehicles for 30 years.
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Old 02-01-2017, 12:52 PM   #13
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Castrol was probably run by an engineer back then. Probably an MBA in marketing now....things may have changed. I have no idea...just lamenting the changes in executive prioritizes. Everybody seems to agree that stuff is simply not built to last anymore.


Quote:
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I'm originally from Houston Texas and down there is a company called Lubrizol. A friend of mine worked for Lubrizol which is a company that specializes in blending all the major oils adding detergents and other non-wear additives. He told me that of all the oils they blend only Castrol would send people out to pull samples and make sure their product was being blended to their specifications.

Since then only Castrol for over 30 years for me.

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Old 02-01-2017, 07:41 PM   #14
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I grew up across the river from Ashland Oil Company...Anything I change the oil in gets Valvoline, tractors, mowers, anything. The cars we have that are under warranty who knows whatever the dealer uses...lol
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:01 PM   #15
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I use strictly AMSOIL, if it was good enough for the CJ's in the Expedicion de las Americas... it's definitely good enough for my YJ.

Originally I just started out with their GL4 gear lube for my transmission, since I have converted all of my fluids.



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Old 02-01-2017, 10:17 PM   #16
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I used Mobil 1 10w-30 full synthetic High Mileage in mine. Has just the right amount of zddp (1200 ppm) to prevent wear for flat tappet cam motors like the jeep inlines and got me 6000 miles between oil changes. I'll be using the 5w-30 version in my 350 after I finish the swap.
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Old 02-02-2017, 11:08 AM   #17
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I use Royal Purple. Seen some pretty amazing things out of their products over the years. We ran Mobil -1 for many years in our racing program before switching over to Royal Purple. Around 500 laps on our spec & open show engines we would refresh them with new bearings & rings as well as new valve springs/etc. With royal we wouldn't refresh them til 1000 laps or so. Hell we could pretty much reuse the bearings if we wanted to. Twisting a small block @ 8700 to 9000 rpms for 50-60 laps a night is hard on the ole motor. Especially when you are hooked up and loose thru out the dirt track on any given night.

That's pretty much all I use now. Do use Lucas for diffs.

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Old 02-02-2017, 12:24 PM   #18
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I personally love Napa Full Synthetic. It is the same as Valvoline, just different packaging and a LOT cheaper!! I use to use 5w-30, but since all of my vehicle are getting up there with miles and all use oil (none leak), I've found it best to go with a little thicker oil 10w-30 and buy a case at a time. Plus the 2.5L in my wife's wrangler has had the block welded, so in my mind, I tell myself to use a little thicker oil. It might not matter, but it makes me feel safe... haha The jeep has the lowest miles of all of my vehicles, at 154k. I think my Pontiac G6 GTP 3.9L will keep going to 300k with Napa Synthetic!!
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Old 02-06-2017, 12:58 PM   #19
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In my push rod engines I run Delo diesel 10w30. Diesel oil has a higher percentage of ZDDP (Zinc dithiophosphate). An oversimplification of what it does is 'hardens' friction surfaces making them more wear resistant. This is especially important on lifters. Gasoline engine oil used to have higher levels of it, but it was drastically reduced because it can be hard on emissions control devices (Cat, namely). I run Valvoline in everything else. OHC engines and Roller Cams don't need the same level of ZDDP as a pushrod/tappet engine and are served just fine by any modern oil.
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Old 02-06-2017, 01:07 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KMDWRANGLER View Post
I use Royal Purple. Seen some pretty amazing things out of their products over the years. We ran Mobil -1 for many years in our racing program before switching over to Royal Purple. Around 500 laps on our spec & open show engines we would refresh them with new bearings & rings as well as new valve springs/etc. With royal we wouldn't refresh them til 1000 laps or so. Hell we could pretty much reuse the bearings if we wanted to. Twisting a small block @ 8700 to 9000 rpms for 50-60 laps a night is hard on the ole motor. Especially when you are hooked up and loose thru out the dirt track on any given night.

That's pretty much all I use now. Do use Lucas for diffs.

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If I had a high-performance vehicle that's exactly what I'd do. But, I have an old "heep" and that Royal Purple is $$$$$. I used it in my front diff but after wheeling I tend to have to drain fluids to service the components, so I've found that it's not worth the price because the fluids get changed so often. Castrol in everything now. Cheap and effective. Cool information though!
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Old 02-06-2017, 02:08 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VMX12Rider View Post
In my push rod engines I run Delo diesel 10w30. Diesel oil has a higher percentage of ZDDP (Zinc dithiophosphate). An oversimplification of what it does is 'hardens' friction surfaces making them more wear resistant. This is especially important on lifters. Gasoline engine oil used to have higher levels of it, but it was drastically reduced because it can be hard on emissions control devices (Cat, namely). I run Valvoline in everything else. OHC engines and Roller Cams don't need the same level of ZDDP as a pushrod/tappet engine and are served just fine by any modern oil.
I've wanted to try this but I'm afraid that there is too many detergents in diesel oil for a gasoline motor.
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Old 02-06-2017, 04:14 PM   #22
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I've wanted to try this but I'm afraid that there is too many detergents in diesel oil for a gasoline motor.
There isn't. If there is a lubricity difference between gasoline oil and diesel oil due to additives, it would be negligible at best. A diesel's crank and bearing see forces that would spill all but the heartiest gasoline engine onto the pavement, so you best believe it's slicker'n snake snot. And if diesel oil was freakishly better at scrubbing the inside of your engine, that just means the gunk would ultimately wind up in the filter rather than the engine, where it belongs. Oil that can survive gathering kerosene and coal dust has no problems going 3 or 4K miles in a gas engine.

I've run as the regular oil in my old Camaro, Caprice, Renix Comanche, 4.9 Caddy. When I finish putting this jeep together, that'll be what goes in there as well. The ZDDP can shorten the life expectancy of a Catalytic converter, which was why they started reducing it in the first place. Emissions regulations made automakers warranty emissions control components to 8 years or 80K miles on anything less than 2 years old. That being said, I'm not telling you to run out and fill your jeep with 20W50 that pours like Heinz 57. I specifically use the Delo 10W30.
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Old 02-06-2017, 04:43 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VMX12Rider View Post
There isn't. If there is a lubricity difference between gasoline oil and diesel oil due to additives, it would be negligible at best. A diesel's crank and bearing see forces that would spill all but the heartiest gasoline engine onto the pavement, so you best believe it's slicker'n snake snot. And if diesel oil was freakishly better at scrubbing the inside of your engine, that just means the gunk would ultimately wind up in the filter rather than the engine, where it belongs. Oil that can survive gathering kerosene and coal dust has no problems going 3 or 4K miles in a gas engine.

I've run as the regular oil in my old Camaro, Caprice, Renix Comanche, 4.9 Caddy. When I finish putting this jeep together, that'll be what goes in there as well. The ZDDP can shorten the life expectancy of a Catalytic converter, which was why they started reducing it in the first place. Emissions regulations made automakers warranty emissions control components to 8 years or 80K miles on anything less than 2 years old. That being said, I'm not telling you to run out and fill your jeep with 20W50 that pours like Heinz 57. I specifically use the Delo 10W30.
Great info. I'm interested in the extra zinc, but I wonder if it would be worth it on my roller cam engine. It calls for 10w-30, but I was planning on dropping it down to 5w-30 for better cold start protection. Do they make Delo 5w-30? I guess I should google it
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Old 02-06-2017, 06:41 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt_C View Post

Great info. I'm interested in the extra zinc, but I wonder if it would be worth it on my roller cam engine. It calls for 10w-30, but I was planning on dropping it down to 5w-30 for better cold start protection. Do they make Delo 5w-30? I guess I should google it
You don't necessarily have to worry about zddp levels on roller cam motors only flat tappet.
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Old 02-06-2017, 06:59 PM   #25
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You don't necessarily have to worry about zddp levels on roller cam motors only flat tappet.
100% Correct. For what it's worth in light of typing all of this I just looked up some VOA's (Virgin Oil Analysis). Delo is 1260 PPM ZDDP, compared to say Valvoline Maxlife, which is hair over 800 PPM. And as for detergent levels, the levels in passenger oil have been increasing over the year to deal with EGR, where the engines are forces to inhale exhaust in the name of tail pipe emissions.
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Old 02-06-2017, 07:56 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VMX12Rider View Post
And if diesel oil was freakishly better at scrubbing the inside of your engine, that just means the gunk would ultimately wind up in the filter rather than the engine, where it belongs. Oil that can survive gathering kerosene and coal dust has no problems going 3 or 4K miles in a gas engine.
This is what I mean, if someone who has accumulated 25+ years of gunk and puts a higher detergent oil in, seems like an opportunity to clog an oil pump or the many small oil passages. I know the 4.2l and 4.0l don't have oil bypasses either so if the filter gets clogged from a negligent person who puts in oil and just runs it without checking like many people I know, will the detergents actually cause a serious amount of gunk cleaning to happen in say 3000 miles? I don't have much knowledge in diesel oils so I am curious.
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Old 02-06-2017, 09:16 PM   #27
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There are basically two kinds of detergents in motor oil. Sulfolnates and Phenelates. They break up metal-based salts that form in the engine from combustion/heat, they neutralize acid production in the oil itself and slow it becoming corrosive, and lastly they 'treat' the metal inside an engine to stop the salts from sticking to them. This is pretty much the detergent packages found in most oils with varying amounts due to propriety blends, 11 secret herbs and spices, etc. There isn't 'so much' in one that it's going take all of your engines gunk and send it flying into the filter during a cycle. Again, a lot of modern engine oils even for gasoline engines have increased detergent packages because of EGR valves.
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Old 02-07-2017, 10:49 AM   #28
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If I had a high-performance vehicle that's exactly what I'd do. But, I have an old "heep" and that Royal Purple is $$$$$. I used it in my front diff but after wheeling I tend to have to drain fluids to service the components, so I've found that it's not worth the price because the fluids get changed so often. Castrol in everything now. Cheap and effective. Cool information though!
I hear ya Mud. Good maintenance goes along ways. Cost me about $50 for oil and a good filter, so its not that higher than other brands. That's six quarts of oil to. Gotta love the 4.0. But as you said, a dollar saved is a dollar earned.

Funny story, Back in 92 I was in the Pennzoil suite at the Daytona 500 with a rep of Slick 50 watching the race. Michael Waltrip was sponsored by Pennzoil and driving for Bahari Racing. Waltrip had one of three cars that had a chance to win the Daytona 500, but a blown engine in the last 10 laps lead him to finished 18th. When the motor chit caned the REP stood up and said, He should have been running SLICK 50! You could hear a PIN drop in the suite. lol, good times!!

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Old 02-07-2017, 10:55 AM   #29
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I use Pennzoil Ultra 5W30 across the board, in an 88 E-150, 08 Liberty, and a 2016 Rubicon.

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