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Old 11-26-2012, 02:12 PM   #1
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My Daughters Jeep

Hello All, I previously owned a 1977 CJ5. I kick myself everyday for getting rid of it. Now my daughter just purchased a 1989 Wrangler with a 5 speed and a 6 cylinder engine. Now the fun part, we get to work on it together. I will be asking lots of questions so any advice will be much appricated. Lets start with the dash lights...

1)Normal 4 guages. None of the guages, speedo or tack light up. All work except the fuel guage (goes to E when not running and F when running) and engine temp (stays at cold). Heater works great. Any advice?

2)Jeep is lifted. Daughter hates the lifted look so we need to remove. The only non stock item i can see that is increasing the height is the procomp shocks. My question is can we just swap out the shocks with a set that is closer to factory or am i missing something?

thnaks for your help Eric

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Old 11-26-2012, 02:17 PM   #2
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1. I'm no help on gauges.

2. The lift could be anything. Can you post pictures? Your life could be from body blocks, lift shackles, lift springs, SOA... there's literally a dozen ways to give a Jeep more height so I'll need to see what it looks like both from the side and the front/back underneath to help diagnose going forward.

Curious.. why buy a lifted Wrangler if she didn't want a lifted Wrangler? There's lots of stock or near-stock Jeeps out there. What drew her/you to this one?

Denis

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1991 YJ 99 Vortec 5.7L, SM465, NP205, 14 Bolt Rear, Dana 60 Front, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Lockers, 395/85R20 46" Michelin XML tires on 20" XD Wheels, Cherokee Offset Springs (10" front to back stretch total), Bilstein 5150s, 1in. BL, custom cage, Warn M8000, Double D Dash/OHC, 4Low Front Stinger Bumper, DirtWorx Rear Bumper WTC, Tube Fenders, Comp Cut, 1 Ton HD Kingpin High Steering and PAID FOR.
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Old 11-26-2012, 02:37 PM   #3
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Hey Denis, thanks for the quick reply. Her Jeep was priced right, $3,000, runs and looks great and has a brand new soft top. Needs a little work and new tires but overall seems like a good deal. I will post pictures for ideas on the lift. Thanks
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Old 11-26-2012, 02:48 PM   #4
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Post pictures of your leaf springs, shackles and the where the axle mounts to your springs.
Post pictures of your body mounts if you can and tranfer case mounts.
Shocks won't lift the jeep. Unless the are pressurized but then it wouldn't be much.
After we find what's lifting your jeep then we can tell you how to lower it back to stock height.

If its a spring lift then I would try to trade for stock. Plus get some cash for yourself if possible.
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Old 11-26-2012, 03:01 PM   #5
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Im about to buy nee leaf springs, I have stock leafs and stock shocks, but their old
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Old 11-26-2012, 03:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insuranceguy View Post
Hey Denis, thanks for the quick reply. Her Jeep was priced right, $3,000, runs and looks great and has a brand new soft top. Needs a little work and new tires but overall seems like a good deal. I will post pictures for ideas on the lift. Thanks
I know all about priced right. That's how I got my current YJ, even though I wasn't happy with how it was built. Slowly changing that.

Denis
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1991 YJ 99 Vortec 5.7L, SM465, NP205, 14 Bolt Rear, Dana 60 Front, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Lockers, 395/85R20 46" Michelin XML tires on 20" XD Wheels, Cherokee Offset Springs (10" front to back stretch total), Bilstein 5150s, 1in. BL, custom cage, Warn M8000, Double D Dash/OHC, 4Low Front Stinger Bumper, DirtWorx Rear Bumper WTC, Tube Fenders, Comp Cut, 1 Ton HD Kingpin High Steering and PAID FOR.
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Old 11-26-2012, 03:41 PM   #7
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1. Disconnect the battery first you may short out the clock it is hot all the time. Gauges have lights in the back of the panel. Pull the bezel around the gauge cluster 6 screwss and then unscrew the gauge cluster. The two outer screws can be a PIA so take you time it is all brittle plastic. Disconnect the ONE electrical connector. The bulb size is 194 takes 6 bulbs. Remove and replace the bulbs. You will see that the entire gauge cluster is run by a thin metalic strip to get power to the gauges. You can set it on the kitchen table (wife will enhjoy this) and completely disassemble and clean everything. You clean the contact areas for the gauges and the connector with a rubber eraser a soft art gum eraser works best. Be delicate none of this stuff was really meant to be messed with. You will be able to clean all the dirt and dust off everything and then reassemble and install. It takes about 2 hours to remove disassemble clean everything and reassemble and install. Same for the speedo and Tach 2 lights each so you need a total of 10 bulbs. The speedo and tack you just need to pop out far enough to change the bulbs. Same cover bezel to include the middle pice above the steering wheel pretty easy.
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Old 11-26-2012, 03:49 PM   #8
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Those "new" tires may not fit if you put it back to stock ride height.
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:05 PM   #9
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good points all of you, thanks for your input. I will let you know how it goes.
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:45 PM   #10
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I assume you checked the fuse for the dash? They all run off the same circuit for the lamps. It's a WHT/BLK wire. Check that for 12V with lights on. The gauges themselves run on the same ground as the lamps, so if the gauges work (besides the speedo and tach) then the ground should be ok, but it doesn't hurt to check continuity to ground.
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Old 11-26-2012, 07:01 PM   #11
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you know what? i forgot to say this and i feel a bit ashamed.

Good for you dad. Wanting to work on your kids car with them. It's quality time that you can't buy, find or replace. Have fun you two.
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Old 11-26-2012, 07:07 PM   #12
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Nothing like getting some quality time working on something together with your kids.... Son has learned to do a basic tune-up, change oil, diff fluids, and shocks since we bought his Jeep and step-daughter-to-be has done her own brakes on her JK....

You're gonna have a lot of fun with this!!!!
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntwrkguru View Post
I assume you checked the fuse for the dash? They all run off the same circuit for the lamps. It's a WHT/BLK wire. Check that for 12V with lights on. The gauges themselves run on the same ground as the lamps, so if the gauges work (besides the speedo and tach) then the ground should be ok, but it doesn't hurt to check continuity to ground.
The WHT/BK wire is the ignition feed (+ when key is on). This basically feeds the gauges. You will have a +, a -, and the sensor input going to each gauge except the voltmeter which only has an ignition hot feed. The lighting is fed by an OR/BK wire which is part of the lighting circuit. The ground for everything is common.

It isnt difficult to hardwire the gauges whether you have soldering skills or not. Everything can be crimp connected, and you can jump from one gauge to another or single wire everything and make one connection at the dash connector.

Heres a couple of pics that may help you.

and a wiring diagram



Hope it helps you!
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:21 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90DesertTanYJ View Post
The WHT/BK wire is the ignition feed (+ when key is on). This basically feeds the gauges. You will have a +, a -, and the sensor input going to each gauge except the voltmeter which only has an ignition hot feed. The lighting is fed by an OR/BK wire which is part of the lighting circuit. The ground for everything is common.
Indeed you are right. I jumped a circuit on the wiring diagram. I HATE when they don't show the crossover humps...
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:40 PM   #15
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Indeed you are right. I jumped a circuit on the wiring diagram. I HATE when they don't show the crossover humps...
I have found the FSM isnt clear enough or is outright wrong on the dash circuit pathways. It will drive you crazy sometimes. I just finished straightening out all of my issues. Jeep Chrysler and the VDO engineers needed their butts kicked for designing such crap!.
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:11 PM   #16
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well turned out the lack of lights was due to a fuse issue, now on to tackle the non working fuel guage and temp guages, thank you all for the info and advice. More to follow. thnaks again.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:21 PM   #17
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Usually just a matter of cleaning the contact areas for the gauge.
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Old 08-06-2014, 05:40 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90DesertTanYJ View Post
The WHT/BK wire is the ignition feed (+ when key is on). This basically feeds the gauges. You will have a +, a -, and the sensor input going to each gauge except the voltmeter which only has an ignition hot feed. The lighting is fed by an OR/BK wire which is part of the lighting circuit. The ground for everything is common.

It isnt difficult to hardwire the gauges whether you have soldering skills or not. Everything can be crimp connected, and you can jump from one gauge to another or single wire everything and make one connection at the dash connector.

Heres a couple of pics that may help you.

and a wiring diagram



Hope it helps you!
Hey know this is old thread but I'm hoping youre still active...How did you attach these wires to the stock bulb sockets?

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