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Old 02-11-2017, 01:34 PM   #31
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See page 9-24 in MMs link to 1993-1995 YJ and XJ service manual for tips on cleaning and inspecting the lifter assemblies.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 02-12-2017, 11:10 AM   #32
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Ok I went ahead and soaked the lifters in Marvel Mystery overnight, now I am going to reinstall. Should they just be coated in engine assembly lube on the bottom and sides. Or just the lube on the bottom and motor oil on the sides. Or does it matter?

Thanks again guys for all the input

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Old 02-12-2017, 12:42 PM   #33
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Just installed the lifters, no idea how you guys do it without the head off. I put assembly lube all over them except tops and the holes. Nice that something is actually going back in the motor not out of it. Later today I will take the valves off the old head and get ready for the new head on Tuesday.

Stay tuned...
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Old 02-12-2017, 03:51 PM   #34
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Pulled the valves and stuff, this was my first time doing this, why are the seals on the intakes different?
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Old 02-13-2017, 03:15 PM   #35
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Roloc disced the top of the block and it is flat within .002 inch so I think I'm good there. Also in the pic you can see the lifters back in. New head should be here tomorrow and then the fun begins
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Old 02-13-2017, 05:10 PM   #36
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I'm almost as excited as you are. I can hardly wait until you get it running and report to us what you find.
Too bad you didn't run a compression test prior to pulling the head. It would be educational to compare before and after a valve job compression stats.
Perhaps you will run one after you get your Jeep running. Maybe even a leak down test.

Another poster noted that after a valve job gets the valves seating better that you might start getting blow by. I don't see how, but I'm curious if that happens to your motor.

Please keep us updated.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 02-14-2017, 07:26 AM   #37
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Thanks Luckymac, it was pretty dumb not to compression test prior to the tear down, definitely will once its back together. What he means is that once the new head is put on and their is no place for the compression to leak anywhere, it will push past the rings and result in blow by.

Should be starting valve work tonight.
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Old 02-15-2017, 03:01 PM   #38
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Alright well the lapping went way quicker than I thought, which I think means the valves weren't too worn to begin with. There was some minor pitting on the exhaust ones. The whole job was finished in like an hour. I leak tested them and all 8 are air and liquid tight. Anyway the new head seems real nice and all, but the dowel pins that locate the intake manifold weren't included with it. I suppose they are pretty necessary. Anyone know where I can get a new set of them? I tried to reuse the ones from the old head but I cannot seem to get them out. Soaked them in wd overnight, heated them to 750 degrees, still nothing. I guess they were never meant to come out? Are these something I can buy at autozone?

Thanks again guys and gals

Some pics
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Old 02-15-2017, 03:18 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texan669 View Post
Been following the thread for awhile and thought I would add some information about valve jobs. I use to build race engines at a Michine shop and many year of reconditioning aircraft cylinders.

1. First of all this is a three step process. First your valve seat have to be ground to the correct angle for that head. Second you ground each valve to its correct angle. ( Very common that the intake and exhaust valves have different seat angles.). After doing this you then take lapping compound and lap the valves into each seat. You can tell this is done correctly by looking for a gray ring all the way around the valve and seat. If you don't see this the valve will leak.
2. I don't think you can take a new head that has not had is seats ground to match the valves and make it work correctly. You are sitting yourself up for failure. $100.00 to do it correctly by a machine shop is a lot cheaper that doing it over and over again.

One other note it is VERY COMMON on engines that have head work start having ring blow by. Your valves are working and sealing properly but a warn set of rings will start failing.

GL
Great advise. I've seen a lot of people try and save a few $$ and set up the valves only to have problems. I've also seen a few cases where the head/heads were done and they got blow by from the rings, if the rings were marginal.
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Old 02-15-2017, 07:31 PM   #40
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I sure hope you cleaned all the deposits off the back of the valves.
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Old 02-17-2017, 06:58 AM   #41
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I sure hope you cleaned all the deposits off the back of the valves.
Yes I did

Also got all the valve assemblies in the new head after one final valve test with prussian blue. Tonight I'll do the rockers, thermostat, and try to figure out those guide pins.. any advice on these??

If they come easy, I will probably put the head back on tonight as well.
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Old 02-17-2017, 07:41 AM   #42
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Also, the o rings that came with the new valve seals prevented the keepers from seating properly. I decided not to use them so I will know if this was a bad idea if I start burning oil. Has anyone run into this problem?
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Old 02-18-2017, 07:48 PM   #43
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Got the head on today!

And learned the hard way not to reuse head bolts. Broke bolt number one. Drilled through and used a bolt extractor and got it out. Any tricks on getting ALL the metal shavings out of cylinders/top of pistons? Used shop vac, big magnet, and rags. I guess its pretty hard to find head bolts for a 91 2.5l.

Anyone think these will work? I realize the years are different, but did they change the head/head bolts?

BRAND NEW HEAD BOLTS KIT FOR DODGE DAKOTA JEEP WRANGLER CHEROKEE 2.5L | eBay

Any input would be appreciated here
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Old 02-19-2017, 09:22 AM   #44
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I have a Vice Grip pliers that I brazed a monster large washer on the knurled adjusting knob. I can use my dent puller with a hook rather than a screw in the nose to pull on the large washer.

If I was trying to do what you are with the locating pins, I would grab the pin with the vice grips and then attempt to pull the peg out with the dent puller.

I'm getting ready for church right now. If you have any questions on the Vice Grip thing, just ask. I can post a pic once I am back home.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 02-19-2017, 09:45 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by Luckymac View Post
I have a Vice Grip pliers that I brazed a monster large washer on the knurled adjusting knob. I can use my dent puller with a hook rather than a screw in the nose to pull on the large washer.

If I was trying to do what you are with the locating pins, I would grab the pin with the vice grips and then attempt to pull the peg out with the dent puller.

I'm getting ready for church right now. If you have any questions on the Vice Grip thing, just ask. I can post a pic once I am back home.

Good Luck, L.M.

thanks for the idea, I just ended up making my own pins from some 7/16 rod
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:25 PM   #46
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Well its been a little while since I gave you guys and gals an update.
I got the new head on my motor which is not a 91 apparently which explains why the bolts kept breaking (twice). The spec for the head bolts on the earlier gen. 2.5s is only 85 lbs when I was trying to tighten them to 110.

Anyway got the whole thing put back together with new fluids and stuff, started it up and all seemed well. Then after maybe 15 miles of driving, I got back home and there was the same white milky shtuff underneath the oil filler and a little on the bottom of the dipstick. I am led to believe the cracked head/HG were not the problem here. That was a lot of work for nothing

So I guess most high mile 2.5s have excessive/ some blow by and this releases moisture into the crankcase, contaminating the oil and lading to other fun stuff. If that's not problem, it must be a cracked block.

Also put a new thermostat and coolant in it and the temp guage says it never gets above 140. However after driving for a little while, the whole engine bay seemed hot, quite hot. Guess I should replace the temp sending unit before I crack the brand new head.

Any suggestions on what to do next at this point? The motor refuses to die but not all the oil is contaminated because when I drained it, it was normal color with no milk present.
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:10 AM   #47
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Sorry to hear about the milky oil. I guess it's time to shop for a reman short block or a reman long block and sell the rebuilt head.
I know the disappointment of building an engine and finding milky oil. It happened to me many years ago on a SBC. It had a cracked cylinder bore that I didn't see until I took the engine back apart.

Once you get the Jeep on the road, it'll all be worth it.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 03-21-2017, 10:37 AM   #48
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Sorry to hear about the milky oil. I guess it's time to shop for a reman short block or a reman long block and sell the rebuilt head.
I know the disappointment of building an engine and finding milky oil. It happened to me many years ago on a SBC. It had a cracked cylinder bore that I didn't see until I took the engine back apart.

Once you get the Jeep on the road, it'll all be worth it.

Good Luck, L.M.
Thanks! I am sure others have been in the same or similar boats.
Checked the dipstick and oil cap this morning and there was no milkyness. The dipstick showed a good level of clean oil. Is it possible that the milk was from condensation and never got burned off? As I said, when I drained the oil it looked fine no milk.

It's probably just excessive blow by from worn rings, and if the motor has gone this long in such a condition, I think I will just run it until it blows up!
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Old 03-21-2017, 01:40 PM   #49
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I think I will just run it until it blows up!
At this point, so would I.

Also, I would start looking for a rebuildable core (should be cheap), or start saving for a complete rebuilt engine.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 03-21-2017, 04:00 PM   #50
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Thanks again LM

Just took the jeep for another ride got it up to maybe 150 degrees. (will not get any hotter for some reason, I put new T stat and coolant flushed)

Checked under the oil cap, no white stuff at all. Checked the dipstick, no white stuff at all. Also no sludge in the air filter.

Maybe it had to first get rid of what was still in there prior to the new head??

Another pic just why not
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Old 03-22-2017, 05:21 AM   #51
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Looks like you have a speed freak on your front bumper.

Or

Don't you think you should put a bra on those driving lights?
Maybe that's where the milk was coming from.

Hopefully you have the problem solved. Now to enjoy many miles of Jeeping.

Good Luck, L.M.
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Old 03-22-2017, 10:17 AM   #52
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Looks like you have a speed freak on your front bumper.

Or

Don't you think you should put a bra on those driving lights?
Maybe that's where the milk was coming from.

Hopefully you have the problem solved. Now to enjoy many miles of Jeeping.

Good Luck, L.M.

lol

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