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Old 04-11-2009, 09:49 AM   #1
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New Carb/Air Cleaner, etc?

I'm not trying to spam the forums, but I have a ton of questions, bear with me!

The Jeep I just got has the stalling problem I've read about in other threads so I know to put a new carb in it. It also has a weird aftermarket air cleaner that I'll want to replace at the same time.

I'm looking for suggestions as to what air cleaner I should get and if I should mess with the throttle body while I'm there or anything else I should do while that part of the engine is torn apart?

Rachel

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Old 04-11-2009, 09:52 AM   #2
that's what she said

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do you have pics of the carb so that we can see what you're working with?

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Old 04-11-2009, 10:21 AM   #3
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Well, assume it will be this one... http://pages.motors.ebay.com/viewite...omain=ebay.com
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Old 04-11-2009, 10:42 AM   #4
that's what she said

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is that the carb that is currently on the jeep now, or is that the one you want to get?
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Old 04-11-2009, 10:57 AM   #5
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That's the one I want to get.

R
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Old 04-11-2009, 11:25 PM   #6
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I cant tell what motor you have, but it sounds like a 4.2L I6.

If so, then the carb that works really well for me, might work for you too.

Linky no worky, so I dont know what you are looking at there.

Anyway the MC2100 is a junkyard carb that you rebuild on a workbench, or your kitchen table.

I know it sounds like a difficult thing to do, but really a chimp could do it.
The one on my YJ is the only carb I ever rebuilt. While it did seem daunting, it wasn't that hard to do.

I noticed you are on an island, do they even have a junkyard there?

If not, you can order one from the E-bay dude. You'll also need the adapter,
Mr.Gasket # 1937. Linkage isn't too difficult to hook up, I used the throttle lever from my Carter BBD. It had the ball-stud for the YJ linkage on it.

I hacksawed off the area I didn't need, then Bolted it to the mc lever.There is two holes that do line up, at this point you take the slack out of the linkage. The other hole didn't quite line up, so I drilled it anyway & grabbed a half a hole with another bolt.

If you or anyone else wants, I can take pics in the next day or two.

Go to jeepsunlimited.com & do a board search there for MC2100. Lots of valuable info there, & be sure to find the MC2100 database thread. It shows the passage that needs to be plugged with JB-weld.

If your jeep doesn't have too big of a brake booster, you can use an Edelbrock 10" chrome air cleaner on the MC2100, it should fit nicely.

Also you might consider the "Nutter" bypass, & the "TeamRush Ignition Upgrade". They go great with the MC.
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Old 04-11-2009, 11:45 PM   #7
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Old 04-12-2009, 01:44 AM   #8
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Hey buck can you get a shot of the other side I want to see if one of my tubes is supposed to be metal or rubber
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98% of people when they are about to go into the ditch say "oh shit!" The other 2% are Minnesotans and when we are about to go into a ditch we say "Hold my beer and watch this shit!"
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:22 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckshot500 View Post
I cant tell what motor you have, but it sounds like a 4.2L I6.

If so, then the carb that works really well for me, might work for you too.

Linky no worky, so I dont know what you are looking at there.

<snip>

Also you might consider the "Nutter" bypass, & the "TeamRush Ignition Upgrade". They go great with the MC.
The link was to the MC2100 from the ebay dude so I'm on the right track. I've looked at the Nutter and TeamRush upgrades and can't possibly see a reason why I shouldn't do them, so I'll see what I can do about getting the parts together and have a Jeepfest weekend.

That air cleaner looks sweet! Is there a good internet source for it?

Rachel
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Old 04-12-2009, 12:01 PM   #10
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Hey, Buck... what's the thing on your valve cover?

R
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Old 04-12-2009, 01:11 PM   #11
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Hey, Buck... what's the thing on your valve cover?

R
It's a breather. It equalizes the pressure eliminating vacum which could damage seals. Similar to the idea behind PCV.
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:47 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k.t. View Post
it's a breather. It equalizes the pressure eliminating vacum which could damage seals. Similar to the idea behind pcv.
ty!
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Old 04-12-2009, 08:16 PM   #13
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Hey buck can you get a shot of the other side I want to see if one of my tubes is supposed to be metal or rubber
I'll try to get more carb pics tomorrow, can you describe the tube in question?
what does it connect to?

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Hey, Buck... what's the thing on your valve cover?

R
That is the PCV system intake filter.(breather) Towards the back, you can see the PCV line running from the valve cover to the rear of the carb base.

The system is a positive crankcase ventilator, & it needs to draw fresh air from somewhere. Originally it drew air from the air filter assembly. Which I could have done, there is a provision for it on the bottom plate of the Edelbrock chrome air cleaner. Since this thing looked so nice when it was new, & red it got the nod. I put a large vacuum cap over the tube on the air cleaner.

Also note that the airflow of the PCV has changed direction as it used to draw from the front hole of the valve cover. I switched 'em cause it looks better & won't hurt anything.

Here is a link to Advance Auto;
Advance Auto Parts - quality auto parts and accessories

This is a link to the air cleaner on that site;
AIR CLEANER ROUND by Edelbrock - Part 17140559 - Advance Auto Parts

I was able to replace the element with a taller one (Fram CA192), but it just touched the inside of the hood. The center support rib of the hood had to get the slightest dent from my BFH. (ball peen hammer)
I found the spot where the paint from the hood was on the chrome, the found the spot that came from & gave it a shot.

Of course the hold down for the air cleaner needs to be lengthened, & I used 5/16-18 all thread & a wing nut.

The diamond plate on the front of the element, was cut from a mud flap someone gave me.
I would have used thinner aluminum, but didn't have any on hand. It's there to hopefully keep some mud out of the filter, & rain when I'm out with the hood off.
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:03 AM   #14
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Its like it goes from under my air box and almost 180* about 8 inches lower into a port on the engine or intake manifold or somethin on that side
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98% of people when they are about to go into the ditch say "oh shit!" The other 2% are Minnesotans and when we are about to go into a ditch we say "Hold my beer and watch this shit!"
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Old 04-13-2009, 07:04 AM   #15
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Its like it goes from under my air box and almost 180* about 8 inches lower into a port on the engine or intake manifold or somethin on that side
If this thing is like 2" in diameter, then it sounds like the heat riser.

A pic of my drivers side of the engine, will be of no help to you.

I tossed that with the stock air cleaner, & the sheet metal connector for the exhaust manifold too.

One of the least important things you give up by doing a carb swap, is the heat riser.

Next on that list is the stock snorkel. Here is a pick of when I had the Ford Ranger air cleaner, so I could keep the stock snorkel;

As you can see, it was kind of unsightly. Also never did seal right, & air got past it unfiltered. That was what I went with so I could ride in the rain.

I have found that as long as the hood is on, the chrome air cleaner doesn't gulp a bunch of water in the rain.
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Old 04-13-2009, 12:32 PM   #16
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Since I don't seem to be able to edit (these into) my own posts, I'll add these pics in a new post. You may have to look back a few posts to see what your looking at.
Clearance dent I made on center hood rib.


Is this the tube you were asking about 87YJ? This is not the heat riser I was referring to, but it is some type of heat transfer item.


This is the all important bowl tag on the MC2100, make sure you have this or your parts store kid won't know what rebuild kit you need.


Here is the spot where the venturi size is listed. (Purple circle)


Return spring mount detail. Always use two springs in case one breaks, then you won't have to waste your motor throwing it in neutral because it stuck on full throttle.


Last, is how I handled with the linkage connection. The BBD lever had the ball stud, so I cut it off & bolted it to the MC lever. The hole to the left was present on both levers. The one on the right was on the BBD lever, but had to be drilled through one the MC lever. Only get a half a hole on the MC lever, but it's enough.

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Old 04-13-2009, 02:50 PM   #17
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Thanks, Buck!

I ordered the carb and hopefully I'll get it this week so I can play with it next day off. I'll take some pics.

R
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Old 04-13-2009, 06:24 PM   #18
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Good deal, did you get the one that was already rebuilt?

Either way, try to save the BBD until you see if you need the throttle lever part.

After it's all together & working good, then you can toss the carter.
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Old 04-13-2009, 06:27 PM   #19
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Sure did! I may break down and rebuild the carter just for giggles. There are so many Jeeps on this island I could probably sell it to someone.
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Old 04-13-2009, 06:46 PM   #20
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Sure did! I may break down and rebuild the carter just for giggles. There are so many Jeeps on this island I could probably sell it to someone.
Well just so you're aware, there are other ways to connect the throttle linkage besides the way I did. Some people replace the cable with a longer one & somehow connect it right to the MC lever. I believe this involves the fabrication of a bracket to stop the cable sheath.

The bracket I used for the throttle return springs, is a simple fence clamp that I flattened out & re-bent. Should be available at Hardware/Home center type stores.
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Old 04-13-2009, 11:52 PM   #21
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No its more like a slip over Ill try to get a picture or 2 of it tommorow
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Mine: 1987 YJ 4.2 5spd soft top
98% of people when they are about to go into the ditch say "oh shit!" The other 2% are Minnesotans and when we are about to go into a ditch we say "Hold my beer and watch this shit!"
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Old 04-14-2009, 06:39 AM   #22
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You should get the weber..
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Old 04-14-2009, 05:44 PM   #23
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You should get the weber..
While I have no experience with the weber, I'm sure it's a great carb.

Thing is, it's not real cheap or easy to rebuild from what I understand.

The MC2100 parts are readily available at most parts stores & junkyards.

Very easy to rebuild, & can be done trailside if need be.

I was very close to pulling the trigger on a Weber, when I discovered the MC swap.
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Old 04-14-2009, 07:47 PM   #24
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It goes from the bottom of the factory air box neck where the intake tube goes to the headlight area, and folds down and goes to the Exhaust manifold, I think they called it a heat riser so its not always pulling in cold air?
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Mine: 1987 YJ 4.2 5spd soft top
98% of people when they are about to go into the ditch say "oh shit!" The other 2% are Minnesotans and when we are about to go into a ditch we say "Hold my beer and watch this shit!"
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:34 PM   #25
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It goes from the bottom of the factory air box neck where the intake tube goes to the headlight area, and folds down and goes to the Exhaust manifold, I think they called it a heat riser so its not always pulling in cold air?
Yep, sounds like a heat riser. If you plan on keeping the factory air cleaner, you could prolly find a replacement tube at most auto parts stores that would work.

There is a vacuum operated valve in the neck, that switches back to the grille intake after the motor warms up IIRC.

Fact is, you really don't need that thing. If you are swapping in a different carb, you don't want that eyesore. I even broke the rusted manifold (sheet metal) heat collector the rest of the way off.

FYI, I have seen some web pics of how people used the stock air cleaner on the MC2100. There is some way of adapting it.
Other than trying to sneak some mods past an emissions inspector, I see no good reason to use the stocker though.
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Old 04-14-2009, 11:52 PM   #26
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I dont have the money to do it, so Im stickin with the stock set up but I think Im gonna get a different pipe, mine fell off and is now flat...
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Mine: 1987 YJ 4.2 5spd soft top
98% of people when they are about to go into the ditch say "oh shit!" The other 2% are Minnesotans and when we are about to go into a ditch we say "Hold my beer and watch this shit!"
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Old 04-15-2009, 05:59 AM   #27
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I dont have the money to do it, so Im stickin with the stock set up but I think Im gonna get a different pipe, mine fell off and is now flat...
Well just make sure you get the right type, as it's going to see some high heat temperatures. The tube should be a sort of flexible metallic material.

Also, you don't really need that. Leaving it off won't hurt anything.
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:16 AM   #28
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The one I had was almost like Aluminum foil tube, kinda like one of those exhaust flex pipes or somethin
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Mine: 1987 YJ 4.2 5spd soft top
98% of people when they are about to go into the ditch say "oh shit!" The other 2% are Minnesotans and when we are about to go into a ditch we say "Hold my beer and watch this shit!"
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Old 04-15-2009, 02:27 PM   #29
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The one I had was almost like Aluminum foil tube, kinda like one of those exhaust flex pipes or somethin
That's it, & if you really must have it you might find a universal one at Advance or autozone.

I'm not sure about you year, but my "90" 4.2L has a manifold heater under the carb. You can see the plate in the pic I posted for you. 3 bolts & a red wire.

That does a whole lot more, during warmup, than that foil tube does. It has a bunch of pins that stick up. They heat up & warm the fuel/air mixture so it doesn't condense & separate agian.
This could cause premature wear of the piston rings due to cylinder (wall) washing by the raw fuel.
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Old 04-18-2009, 12:53 AM   #30
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I dont think Im gonna worry to much about it

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Mine: 1987 YJ 4.2 5spd soft top
98% of people when they are about to go into the ditch say "oh shit!" The other 2% are Minnesotans and when we are about to go into a ditch we say "Hold my beer and watch this shit!"
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